Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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We can dig it. Most of us are tight on cash and understand having a car/truck that can pass everything but a gas station.
For what it’s worth–my family also has a 2005 Dodge Dur– It’s got the towing package and all the bells and whistles. It gets a whole whopping 9-12 miles a gallon. I drove that with a car hauler from my home town of Fulton, NY to Albany, NY to pick up a Beetle for the wife. It took 4 stops to fill the tank, plus I filled it before I returned it to the family north of here.
Issue with using C-List is always getting low balled. Do your research and be realistic. And then stick to your price. Most people on that thing are decent to deal with–but you’ll always have the idiots–scrappers and flippers. Those are the low balling sleezoids to watch out for.
Watch Eric’s video. Take your time and do not get discouraged! Heck, took me over a month to find the car my wife wanted. Found a good deal within budget. We factored in all the repairs needed and actually came out ahead a bit.
Bottom line is that we understand having a lot on the plate to deal with. Eric makes a valid point when he would rather see you trade ‘up’. Most of the time on the classifieds you can wind up buying another persons massive headache–That’s where being a smart buyer comes into play. Knowing what to look for–and then making allowances for cost for needed repairs against the price of the car/truck.
Best of luck to you, and congrats on the future wedding!
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We can dig it. Most of us are tight on cash and understand having a car/truck that can pass everything but a gas station.
For what it’s worth–my family also has a 2005 Dodge Dur– It’s got the towing package and all the bells and whistles. It gets a whole whopping 9-12 miles a gallon. I drove that with a car hauler from my home town of Fulton, NY to Albany, NY to pick up a Beetle for the wife. It took 4 stops to fill the tank, plus I filled it before I returned it to the family north of here.
Issue with using C-List is always getting low balled. Do your research and be realistic. And then stick to your price. Most people on that thing are decent to deal with–but you’ll always have the idiots–scrappers and flippers. Those are the low balling sleezoids to watch out for.
Watch Eric’s video. Take your time and do not get discouraged! Heck, took me over a month to find the car my wife wanted. Found a good deal within budget. We factored in all the repairs needed and actually came out ahead a bit.
Bottom line is that we understand having a lot on the plate to deal with. Eric makes a valid point when he would rather see you trade ‘up’. Most of the time on the classifieds you can wind up buying another persons massive headache–That’s where being a smart buyer comes into play. Knowing what to look for–and then making allowances for cost for needed repairs against the price of the car/truck.
Best of luck to you, and congrats on the future wedding!
S-
I do a lot of work on a Ranger and Bronco II forum. The repair(s) are more tedious then anything else. Depending on how much stuff is crammed on top of the engine…If the truck as A/C or not? (extra nonsense to deal with)….
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3_0performance.shtml
Some basic info on that engine.
You do not need air tools to do a head gasket job. It takes a good 3/8th socket set…probably some special tool(s) for the head bolts (ours is a torx with the 2.9…not sure on the 3.0) Need a good supply of hand tools and a breaker bar. (Torque Angle Gauge…as well.cheap enough) Last thing is a lot of patience to get the prep work done 100% correctly. Once the heads are off? Clean Clean Clean……The better the prep work? The better the repair holds up!!
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I do a lot of work on a Ranger and Bronco II forum. The repair(s) are more tedious then anything else. Depending on how much stuff is crammed on top of the engine…If the truck as A/C or not? (extra nonsense to deal with)….
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3_0performance.shtml
Some basic info on that engine.
You do not need air tools to do a head gasket job. It takes a good 3/8th socket set…probably some special tool(s) for the head bolts (ours is a torx with the 2.9…not sure on the 3.0) Need a good supply of hand tools and a breaker bar. (Torque Angle Gauge…as well.cheap enough) Last thing is a lot of patience to get the prep work done 100% correctly. Once the heads are off? Clean Clean Clean……The better the prep work? The better the repair holds up!!
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It’s a good looking runner!!!
And it’s not just Finnish going to Sweden for parts. We have that issue here in the states A LOT! I’ve had to order in parts and they have to be shipped in either from Canada, or California…Mexico.. Heck, even China at one time.
I think we’ve outsourced about 98% of the country at this point.
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It’s a good looking runner!!!
And it’s not just Finnish going to Sweden for parts. We have that issue here in the states A LOT! I’ve had to order in parts and they have to be shipped in either from Canada, or California…Mexico.. Heck, even China at one time.
I think we’ve outsourced about 98% of the country at this point.
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What I did manage to locate (as I’m at work currently on break)
The thermo switch should be at the radiator itself. (according to another user with a 2009)
If you turn your A/C ‘on’ both fans SHOULD RUN regardless of what the thermo switch is doing. That makes sense, because your radiator is behind the A/C condense unit. The A/C will get a lot hotter then your radiator when it’s working–and with the thermo switch being located at the radiator itself? That’s for engine cooling, not the A/C.
That’s according to some information pulled from:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/threads/air-conditioning-wont-work.6921/
Now all this info is well and good, you want to check your fans—Thermo switch looks like it should be radiator mounted. With the A/C turned ‘on’? The fan(s) should kick on regardless of engine temp.
It’s not quite the info requested, but it’s one way to see what the fans are doing.
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What I did manage to locate (as I’m at work currently on break)
The thermo switch should be at the radiator itself. (according to another user with a 2009)
If you turn your A/C ‘on’ both fans SHOULD RUN regardless of what the thermo switch is doing. That makes sense, because your radiator is behind the A/C condense unit. The A/C will get a lot hotter then your radiator when it’s working–and with the thermo switch being located at the radiator itself? That’s for engine cooling, not the A/C.
That’s according to some information pulled from:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/threads/air-conditioning-wont-work.6921/
Now all this info is well and good, you want to check your fans—Thermo switch looks like it should be radiator mounted. With the A/C turned ‘on’? The fan(s) should kick on regardless of engine temp.
It’s not quite the info requested, but it’s one way to see what the fans are doing.
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Use what is recommended. PERIOD.
I do not want to come out and say your neighbor is an idiot—but well???
Truth of the matter is that the engine is made with specs that are much tighter and with materials that need “special” attention. I suspect your neighbor is one of the old school types that was raised on conventional oil and considers anything new as nothing more then “Snake Oil”. (Snake Oil=high cost remedy that does absolutely nothing but cost the buyer his money while the scam artist runs away laughing at the rube he just scammed)
In the case of newer oils? Nothing is further from the truth! Older cars? Sure, use either. Really won’t hurt a thing. Newer cars? Stick with the recommended oil/filters and change intervals. If concerned about your area? Use the “rough/extreme service” duration for the changes and you’ll be fine. (normally take the recommended duration and knock a couple of thousand miles off it–in case your manual does not state one for extreme service)
Consider this: If synthetic oil did cause as much damage as your neighbor thinks it does? Picture the amazing amount of lawsuits you would be reading about—and how fast it would be pulled from your parts store.
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Use what is recommended. PERIOD.
I do not want to come out and say your neighbor is an idiot—but well???
Truth of the matter is that the engine is made with specs that are much tighter and with materials that need “special” attention. I suspect your neighbor is one of the old school types that was raised on conventional oil and considers anything new as nothing more then “Snake Oil”. (Snake Oil=high cost remedy that does absolutely nothing but cost the buyer his money while the scam artist runs away laughing at the rube he just scammed)
In the case of newer oils? Nothing is further from the truth! Older cars? Sure, use either. Really won’t hurt a thing. Newer cars? Stick with the recommended oil/filters and change intervals. If concerned about your area? Use the “rough/extreme service” duration for the changes and you’ll be fine. (normally take the recommended duration and knock a couple of thousand miles off it–in case your manual does not state one for extreme service)
Consider this: If synthetic oil did cause as much damage as your neighbor thinks it does? Picture the amazing amount of lawsuits you would be reading about—and how fast it would be pulled from your parts store.
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[quote=”CPT_Ross” post=103511]Okay I looked up a video of how its done, how is just threading new threads(what?)in going to make it less likely to leak, and stay in? I would prefer to just leave the oil pan on as well it looks like I would leave quite a few metal shavings inside the bike this way, more so then a tap and die.[/quote]
Either method used will require the use of a drill and a tap. It’s usually better to stick with the factor sized hardware, and avoid having to drill out for a larger bolt in the oil pan. (plus it looks more ‘professional’ to have uniform hardware as intended)
The helicoil is about as simple as it gets. The ‘tap’ supplied with the helicoil will have a drill bit size. Drill it out exactly per instructions, use their supplied “tap”. The coil insert goes into the threads you just cut. The coil itself becomes the new threads for the fastener and will be the same size as the rest. (provided you selected the correct size on the package to match your broken bolt)
It’s a sweet operation and usual works a treat. Of course you can just drill it out and tap it using the bolt you wish. Everyone has their own style and techniques.
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[quote=”CPT_Ross” post=103511]Okay I looked up a video of how its done, how is just threading new threads(what?)in going to make it less likely to leak, and stay in? I would prefer to just leave the oil pan on as well it looks like I would leave quite a few metal shavings inside the bike this way, more so then a tap and die.[/quote]
Either method used will require the use of a drill and a tap. It’s usually better to stick with the factor sized hardware, and avoid having to drill out for a larger bolt in the oil pan. (plus it looks more ‘professional’ to have uniform hardware as intended)
The helicoil is about as simple as it gets. The ‘tap’ supplied with the helicoil will have a drill bit size. Drill it out exactly per instructions, use their supplied “tap”. The coil insert goes into the threads you just cut. The coil itself becomes the new threads for the fastener and will be the same size as the rest. (provided you selected the correct size on the package to match your broken bolt)
It’s a sweet operation and usual works a treat. Of course you can just drill it out and tap it using the bolt you wish. Everyone has their own style and techniques.
S-
Some VW’s have a fan control module box usually under the battery area. Not sure where on a Jetta it would be. (normally car makers tend to stay in the same zip-code for modules and such for all models)
If you have Air Conditioning and turn it ‘on’ do your fan(s) engage, or stay off?
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Some VW’s have a fan control module box usually under the battery area. Not sure where on a Jetta it would be. (normally car makers tend to stay in the same zip-code for modules and such for all models)
If you have Air Conditioning and turn it ‘on’ do your fan(s) engage, or stay off?
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That’s the sad reality of todays automotive electronics. You need (to do the very tech stuff) some high end testing rigs and such to even test things.
Keep us in the loop on it. If the solenoid passed it’s testing, the issue is being triggered by something else. Wiring to the computer, dirty connector, computer itself. I’ve even read about issues with the engine tripping the code(s) and it threw the owner for a loop trying to figure it out.
Best wishes with it and good luck!! Let us know how you make out. In the mean while? Anyone else with ideas please post ’em if you got ’em!
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