Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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Do us a favor—
Whatever you do on the busted side? Do on the good side.
When one goes—the other isn’t far behind.
And yes, I’ve seen backing plates hose themselves. Back when I turned a wrench professionally we did a large number of GM products for backing plates. It’s was either rust–or the wheel cylinders kicking free in the mount.
Keep us posted!
S-
Do us a favor—
Whatever you do on the busted side? Do on the good side.
When one goes—the other isn’t far behind.
And yes, I’ve seen backing plates hose themselves. Back when I turned a wrench professionally we did a large number of GM products for backing plates. It’s was either rust–or the wheel cylinders kicking free in the mount.
Keep us posted!
S-
I’ll go a step further.
Check your local Lemon Laws. If the car had any sort of warranty? I’d return it for a full refund and start fresh. This is what gives used (not this “Pre-Owned” Bullsnot crap) dealers a bad name.
The car will need much attention, and the window for any possible legal recourse is running out–if it’s not out already.
S-
I’ll go a step further.
Check your local Lemon Laws. If the car had any sort of warranty? I’d return it for a full refund and start fresh. This is what gives used (not this “Pre-Owned” Bullsnot crap) dealers a bad name.
The car will need much attention, and the window for any possible legal recourse is running out–if it’s not out already.
S-
Normally when you have a wheel bearing replaced, you also replace the race the bearing runs in. That’s because they wear in a “set” pattern.
The bearing race could have been pitted or scored–Clearly we’re not viewing it first hand so we are doing the best we can.
In short–(I know, too late) If you replaced the bearing and it’s races? You’re good to go. The bearing race did get replaced in the hub, correct? Provided you did that course of action, new seal(s) where needed…and did the correct lube and torque? Should be fine.
S-
Normally when you have a wheel bearing replaced, you also replace the race the bearing runs in. That’s because they wear in a “set” pattern.
The bearing race could have been pitted or scored–Clearly we’re not viewing it first hand so we are doing the best we can.
In short–(I know, too late) If you replaced the bearing and it’s races? You’re good to go. The bearing race did get replaced in the hub, correct? Provided you did that course of action, new seal(s) where needed…and did the correct lube and torque? Should be fine.
S-
The condition of the fluid can reveal much about the transmissions general health.
The A4LD is known for having A LOT of issues. The fact it’s got 200,000 miles on it? That’s actually far in excess of it’s expected lifespan before needing an overhaul.
The system also holds a total of 9-10 quarts. 3 qts if just doing the filter change out.
The bulk of the fluid is in the torque converter. The A4LD does not use a drain plug on the converter–so you’re stuck with about 6 quarts of old fluid mixing in with the new.
Needed info still remains:
Color of the fluid. Nice and red. Brown and smells burnt…..If you check the fluid does it look like it’s full of ‘bubbles’.
How did the filter look and the bottom of the pan? Some gray shading ‘garbage’ in the bottom of the pan is 100% normal. Any large chunks of metal or particle matter point towards a rebuild in the future.
As for smoking out the tube you fill it? That’s a new one. Are you sure it wasn’t smoking from the exhaust pipe and lofting upwards?
S-
The condition of the fluid can reveal much about the transmissions general health.
The A4LD is known for having A LOT of issues. The fact it’s got 200,000 miles on it? That’s actually far in excess of it’s expected lifespan before needing an overhaul.
The system also holds a total of 9-10 quarts. 3 qts if just doing the filter change out.
The bulk of the fluid is in the torque converter. The A4LD does not use a drain plug on the converter–so you’re stuck with about 6 quarts of old fluid mixing in with the new.
Needed info still remains:
Color of the fluid. Nice and red. Brown and smells burnt…..If you check the fluid does it look like it’s full of ‘bubbles’.
How did the filter look and the bottom of the pan? Some gray shading ‘garbage’ in the bottom of the pan is 100% normal. Any large chunks of metal or particle matter point towards a rebuild in the future.
As for smoking out the tube you fill it? That’s a new one. Are you sure it wasn’t smoking from the exhaust pipe and lofting upwards?
S-
Do ’em both. Clearly the belt needs to be replaced. (once it starts to scream, it can glaze over…not good)
Get that belt seen to, and for good measure ensure the air flow isn’t being obstructed.
S-
Do ’em both. Clearly the belt needs to be replaced. (once it starts to scream, it can glaze over…not good)
Get that belt seen to, and for good measure ensure the air flow isn’t being obstructed.
S-
If the trans is the factory one? It’s an A4LD.
And I’m groaning… Same one that’s in my Bronco II.
Missing reverse gear is frankly pointing towards needing a rebuild of all the soft and hard parts. Not cheap by any means.
We NEED to know what condition the fluid was in, how bad the filter and bottom of the pan looks. And where the smoke is coming from.
If it’s out of the tail pipe? Check the vacuum line to see if you have red oil in it. That means your modulator is shot.
If it’s coming out from under the truck, you have a “Y” pipe that crosses under the transmission. Smoke from that area normally points to a blown front seal. Very common as the seals are pressed into an aluminum ‘receptacle’. The seals do give out (don’t ask me how I know) and when replaced they HAVE to be ‘Staked’ into place. (it actually curls/compresses the aluminum into the steel of the front pump seal. Forget to do that simple task? The seal can and WILL pop out at any given time)
As mentioned, we need answers to the questions so we can help you out.
S-
If the trans is the factory one? It’s an A4LD.
And I’m groaning… Same one that’s in my Bronco II.
Missing reverse gear is frankly pointing towards needing a rebuild of all the soft and hard parts. Not cheap by any means.
We NEED to know what condition the fluid was in, how bad the filter and bottom of the pan looks. And where the smoke is coming from.
If it’s out of the tail pipe? Check the vacuum line to see if you have red oil in it. That means your modulator is shot.
If it’s coming out from under the truck, you have a “Y” pipe that crosses under the transmission. Smoke from that area normally points to a blown front seal. Very common as the seals are pressed into an aluminum ‘receptacle’. The seals do give out (don’t ask me how I know) and when replaced they HAVE to be ‘Staked’ into place. (it actually curls/compresses the aluminum into the steel of the front pump seal. Forget to do that simple task? The seal can and WILL pop out at any given time)
As mentioned, we need answers to the questions so we can help you out.
S-
We’re missing the elephant in the room on this.
The condenser itself is designed to give off ‘heat’ in order to turn the gas back to liquid. When you have the AC running, the condenser will be giving off a lot of heat. If your air flow through the radiator is not at 100%, or the radiator is partly plugged up–It will make the car run hot.
Remember Eric’s video on overheating with the broken radiator? He removed the radiator and it was partly bunged up with leaves and other assorted trash between the radiator and the condenser.
Air flow needs to be checked as well. Not saying it couldn’t be any of the other issues listed—but with restricted air flow? You can get some oddball issues.
S-
We’re missing the elephant in the room on this.
The condenser itself is designed to give off ‘heat’ in order to turn the gas back to liquid. When you have the AC running, the condenser will be giving off a lot of heat. If your air flow through the radiator is not at 100%, or the radiator is partly plugged up–It will make the car run hot.
Remember Eric’s video on overheating with the broken radiator? He removed the radiator and it was partly bunged up with leaves and other assorted trash between the radiator and the condenser.
Air flow needs to be checked as well. Not saying it couldn’t be any of the other issues listed—but with restricted air flow? You can get some oddball issues.
S-
Why not just take it to the parts store and have them test it?
Even if you do not purchase it from most parts houses, they will still test it for you free of charge. Then you have the option of ordering a replacement a lot cheaper (normally we use RockAuto for parts here).
Yes it does seem like the starter is fried. But that’s no excuse for not being sure and having it tested.
S-