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If the rotors have a glossy mirror looking finish on them, that will cause squeaks and all kinds of high pitched noises. This is caused by high heat. It’s called “Glazing” of the rotors. This can be resolved on a temp basis by scuff sanding the rotors to remove the heat glaze. We used to do this about 3 to 4 times a week at the shop I used to work at. Just need to scuff them down. No power sanding tools, just by hand. This was of course over 20 years ago when I used to do this professionally, so hang loose..as the solution likely has changed and someone may know better then I at this time.
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Blown apart as in there isn’t any of the honey comb left inside?
If the converter is “Punched Out”. (totally empty box) Yeah you’ll have a CEL. There won’t be much else, maybe without the back pressure on the O2 sensors you might have power issues and oddball fuel trims. (as my understanding is based upon older cars/trucks. This may not hold true)
If the converter bed is broken apart and still floating around inside the housing? I would not recommend driving it. If one part of the honey comb converter bed happens to break free and block your exhaust flow exiting–You’ll kill the engine with high back pressures.
This does not address the chance of the converter bed overheating and “Bluing” the housing. (basically it overheats to the point of being a fire hazard. As a former firefighter I have responded to many car fires due to overheating converters.) If the converter bed is punched out and removed on a TEMP basis? I’d run it for a short while until correct parts can be sourced.
This is only my opinion and others have opinions as well. This should not be taken as a blessing to run a car without correct emission devices. Please note depending on the area you reside–this can cause the car to fail state emission inspections. Anything you decide to do is at your own risk.
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In all reality?
That price is decent and fair. I wish I found $45 dollar tow bills, most shops in my area won’t even start their trucks without at least $80 min.
I know it sucks and is a hard pill to swallow for the expense. But that’s not that bad a price for dropping the tank and replacement parts & labor.
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Not sure if this helps or adds to the confusion.
We put on an extremely light coating of high temp anti-seize. Seems to do the trick with all the mag wheels we have in our family.
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Nailed it.
It’s not often I get fooled by readings and general testing. When this first presented I did a balance test by unplugging injectors and taking readings. The #6 injector passed each test at THAT time. Ohm’d out the same as the neighboring ones, and the wiring when swapped? The injector fired normally, etc…
I redid the plug on the end (it was broken anyway from all the testing..plastic brittle…) And I picked up a used injector from our local salvage yard from a 2003 Durango. (Interchanged fine) Just as a test I plugged it in without having it on the fuel rail. The wife starts the SUV up and no CEL! I can feel the injector fire in my hand, and it was bleeding a bit of fuel out the end. That was the head smack moment. All the normal testing went out the window on that one LOL.
The base of the injector was just about welded into the seat. Thankfully I was able to lift the one rail up without having to remove the entire thing. Wrenched out the bad injector and I had quite a shock. Base of the injector right above the O-Ring was expanded about 1/16″ and had several cracks in it. This injector has the same diameter at the base as the top–picture the bottom 1/2″ of the injector puffed out and full of rust. Couldn’t tell from the outward looks, as this is the part that seats well below the valve cover.
We put it all back together. Light coating of oil on the o-rings (and a new set of o-rings on the replacement injector) Checked for fuel leaks-none. (thank God for that….my track record with injector o-rings suxs). Took it for a test drive, no CEL’s to report..ran smooth as silk.
The company we got the rebuilt PCM did an outstanding job, programmed it with the mileage, vin, everything. Truly plug and drive… I figure the old injector started to dead-short and that took out the driver transistor on the PCM. As we did check for injector pulse and had none with the old computer.
Mom’s very happy and that makes me happy. (it’s Mom’s “Taxi” and she was without it for about a month while I found the time to work on it)
Best regards to the group!!!
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[quote=”ukrkoz” post=119010]Pretty.. Sort of. It’s infamous milkshake. Oil leaking into coolant, beat up into emulsion by water pump fins. Like CM said – head gasket. Fortunately, on a 4 banger, it’s only about day of slow pace DIY job. If you like REALLY can not DIY, find a mobile mech off craigslist. Won’t cost you that much.[/quote]
Have to say I’ve never seen it before like that. Looks more like someone went crazy with the foam expanding insulation.
Pick up the Haynes Manual and start planning it for tools and supplies. We’ll be the cheer leaders for ya!
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[quote=”ukrkoz” post=119010]Pretty.. Sort of. It’s infamous milkshake. Oil leaking into coolant, beat up into emulsion by water pump fins. Like CM said – head gasket. Fortunately, on a 4 banger, it’s only about day of slow pace DIY job. If you like REALLY can not DIY, find a mobile mech off craigslist. Won’t cost you that much.[/quote]
Have to say I’ve never seen it before like that. Looks more like someone went crazy with the foam expanding insulation.
Pick up the Haynes Manual and start planning it for tools and supplies. We’ll be the cheer leaders for ya!
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Damnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn
Never saw that before and I’ve been doing this on and off for 25 years. (probably not the response you wanted)
If I didn’t know better– It looks like someone filled the radiator gooseneck with spray foam insulation.
Is that stuff hard as a rock? How did that come to happen? Remove the cap and it just did a mushroom?
With the compression test, all I have is to ask if you removed all the spark plugs, blocked the throttle wide open for max air flow into the cylinders…and have a strong battery to crank the engine about 10 times per check. Trick is to crank the engine until you see the gauge ‘peak’ and that’s your number. (usually takes 5 to 10 cranks)
I’m sorry, I’m still kinda amazed by that…. I hope someone here has seen that before!
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Damnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn
Never saw that before and I’ve been doing this on and off for 25 years. (probably not the response you wanted)
If I didn’t know better– It looks like someone filled the radiator gooseneck with spray foam insulation.
Is that stuff hard as a rock? How did that come to happen? Remove the cap and it just did a mushroom?
With the compression test, all I have is to ask if you removed all the spark plugs, blocked the throttle wide open for max air flow into the cylinders…and have a strong battery to crank the engine about 10 times per check. Trick is to crank the engine until you see the gauge ‘peak’ and that’s your number. (usually takes 5 to 10 cranks)
I’m sorry, I’m still kinda amazed by that…. I hope someone here has seen that before!
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Might not be the only temp sensor. Yes the stat is stuck open and that needs to be corrected to remove the strain on things. It will improve performance and mileage. If the engine computer has it’s own temp sensor that is independent of the gauge (and most are setup that way) It’s that sensor that I’m referring to.
If the sensor is cheap enough from the auto parts house? Toss one on it when you do the stat. If it’s an expensive one? Snag it off one at the local pick and pull yard for a few bucks. Peek at the auto stores website to see what the sensors look like. The one you are probably after won’t have the word “gauge” or “light” after it.
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Might not be the only temp sensor. Yes the stat is stuck open and that needs to be corrected to remove the strain on things. It will improve performance and mileage. If the engine computer has it’s own temp sensor that is independent of the gauge (and most are setup that way) It’s that sensor that I’m referring to.
If the sensor is cheap enough from the auto parts house? Toss one on it when you do the stat. If it’s an expensive one? Snag it off one at the local pick and pull yard for a few bucks. Peek at the auto stores website to see what the sensors look like. The one you are probably after won’t have the word “gauge” or “light” after it.
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