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need more info. dont worry about codes at the moment. look into basics of whether the engine has fuel, air, spark. Also check battery and terminals. Once you check those and give us more info, it will narrow down what needs to be done
you can replace only one, however, it never hurts to replace them all
if it were me working on my old truck, i would only replace the one.
Hello all,
Little background about me:
-Grew up working on a farm and had to learn the hard way how to fix things because I was stuck in the middle of a field with no help.
-Ended up going to school and getting a bachelors degree in automotive technology
-Now work for a company and am more on the “service engineering” side of things
-And in between all of that, worked for various independent repair shops (I miss wrenching)However, I found Eric’s video’s very helpful when my Uncle who lives far away would ask me how to fix something on his vehicle.
my favorite tool of all time that i bought was a matco 3/8 spark plug flexhead ratchet.
Before I could afford impact tools, and had limited 1/2 inch and such, i used this ratchet for absolutely everything. From alternators, to transmissions, to brakes, to ball joints. After all of the abuse I have put this tool through, it still works just as good when I bought it. I think I bought it for $99 from my old tool guy, but it paid itself off in a week.
Not trying to market Matco, but this ratchet is well worth the money and would recommend it to anyone
depends what you are working on and how much torque you need to apply.
i only own a 1/2 craftsman torque wrench which i use on lug nuts, balls joints, some axle nuts, and other things i can’t think of at the moment.
Axle nuts and axle pinions require a pretty high torque that a sears torque wrench will not go up to. however if it is for minor odds and ends, you can’t go wrong with it.
Lots of torque wrenches, but I am not the pro when it comes to choosing them. Hope that helps.
be sure to check the basics first. A bad wheel bearing often causes a wheel speed sensor to get funky readings.
heard complaints and have seen this problem several times. If it is the design i am thinking, ford had a strange EGR design where the egr tube goes through the intake and a common problem was that the back side of the tube would get very carbon-ed up and cause misfires and all sorts of problems. Unfortunately i do not believe it is possible to clean out with a coat hanger or such, Ford’s fix was to take off the intake manifold and let sit in parts cleaner for the night and then try and bust up as much of the carbon as possible.
not saying this is your problem because I cannot be sure. But simply a suggested common problem with Ford V-8’s. Hope this may help a bit
does not seem unreasonable. wires, rotor, and distributor cap seem a little pricey. See if maybe you can bring in your own parts or if you can get a discounted labor rate for getting a decent amount of work done.
i would suggest lifting up the front end…safely…. and shaking it down. Shake side to side, and up and down with your hands. have a friend shake it while you look and see what is loose. That kind of noise makes me suspect ball joints or control arm bushings. “College man” has a good point as well. If their is no play when you shake the front end (off the ground) then try turning the steering wheel to the left and/or right and try and shake it down at that drive angle too.
Hope this helps, its not every single detail, but will probably give you a good start
follow Erics video on a/c diagnosis or a/c leak detection. I forgot the exact name of the video, however, there is a possibiltiy of a leaking evaporator if you are smelling engine smells. If you are smelling fuel, then that could be an entirely different problem. The clicking of the a/c compressor is the clutch engaging and disengaging due to either improper refrigeration charge, or possible bad pressure switches (if applicable)