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Couple questions for you. What was the timing belt replaced for? was there a problem? or was it just maintenance?
If the previous belt had broken, there is a possibility of valve/piston contact (not sure if that motor is an interference motor or not)
If it was just maintenance, I would verify the timing belt was timed correctly. More times then not, just being off one tooth can screw up timing between where the piston is located compared to the valve. The piston may be TDC but the cam is telling the valve to stay open.
Other then that, May have a protruding valve seat but that would be the last on my list.
Couple questions for you. What was the timing belt replaced for? was there a problem? or was it just maintenance?
If the previous belt had broken, there is a possibility of valve/piston contact (not sure if that motor is an interference motor or not)
If it was just maintenance, I would verify the timing belt was timed correctly. More times then not, just being off one tooth can screw up timing between where the piston is located compared to the valve. The piston may be TDC but the cam is telling the valve to stay open.
Other then that, May have a protruding valve seat but that would be the last on my list.
WYSETECH asked the perfect question.
Toyota is extremely specific for the fluid it uses and it usually can not be found at a parts store – can only get it from the dealer.
WYSETECH asked the perfect question.
Toyota is extremely specific for the fluid it uses and it usually can not be found at a parts store – can only get it from the dealer.
I would want to know what brand parts were being used during the 5 times it was replaced and possibly see if it was a low quality part.
My next steps would be the following…
– Drive angle of the axles could cause premature wear. For example, if the springs are weak and the ride height is not where it should be…this puts more strain on the axles.
– Front suspension components, how are the wheel bearings/tie rods/ball joints/rack and pinion? play in these components could be putting a non-anticipated repetitive motion through these axles.
– What was the failure of the CV joint? were the boots ripped? or what deemmed them failed?
– What is the vehicle mostly used for? is it highway, city driving and who is driving the vehicle or how many drivers are using it?
These are things I would be looking into for a repeat failure of the half shafts
I would want to know what brand parts were being used during the 5 times it was replaced and possibly see if it was a low quality part.
My next steps would be the following…
– Drive angle of the axles could cause premature wear. For example, if the springs are weak and the ride height is not where it should be…this puts more strain on the axles.
– Front suspension components, how are the wheel bearings/tie rods/ball joints/rack and pinion? play in these components could be putting a non-anticipated repetitive motion through these axles.
– What was the failure of the CV joint? were the boots ripped? or what deemmed them failed?
– What is the vehicle mostly used for? is it highway, city driving and who is driving the vehicle or how many drivers are using it?
These are things I would be looking into for a repeat failure of the half shafts
I would find what is causing the play in the wheel first. Have someone shake the wheel while it is lifted up and look underneath to see what it is (ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearing..etc) Fix what you know is wrong, then try and duplicate the complaint to see if it still ahappens.
I would find what is causing the play in the wheel first. Have someone shake the wheel while it is lifted up and look underneath to see what it is (ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearing..etc) Fix what you know is wrong, then try and duplicate the complaint to see if it still ahappens.
check if power is coming from ecm, by ehecking voltage on wire coming from ecm to the fuel pump during the first couple seconds of key on. NOTE: Verify you are using a known good ground. If no voltage, check for dirty/damaged pins on the ecm connector. If none found, verify ecm has all good powers and grounds going to it. If all is good – replace ecm
check if power is coming from ecm, by ehecking voltage on wire coming from ecm to the fuel pump during the first couple seconds of key on. NOTE: Verify you are using a known good ground. If no voltage, check for dirty/damaged pins on the ecm connector. If none found, verify ecm has all good powers and grounds going to it. If all is good – replace ecm
yes it will pump faster as rpm increases. Its spins at a ratio of the crankshaft speed. There is an equation for it used for diagnosing noise, vibration, and harshness issues.
It is…
diameter of accessory pulley (divided by) diameter of crankshaft pulley. (there may be more but this is off the top of my head, i can look it up if you are interested)
crankshaft = 1 so ratio would be the answer to that equation :to 1
hope this helps, what is you overall goal to the question?
i would either just start doing the otherwork, (ie. help other tech’s and learn) or when the time comes and you manager asks you to do something, you tell them you won’t do it unless you are getting paid properly to do that job