Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Jotmon1, Thanks. But that VManual is for the 4 cylinder Accord and is not for the 91 Civic D series engine. Eric is working on the D series VManual. But I like to finish it before winter sets in.
What is the purpose of hitting the philips screw driver with a hammer (@2:51) after installing the new rotor?
What is the purpose of hitting the philips screw driver with a hammer (@2:51) after installing the new rotor?
I just watched your Acura rear caliper replacement video. What do I need to check on the parking brake, cable etc during the rear brake pad replacement?
I just watched your Acura rear caliper replacement video. What do I need to check on the parking brake, cable etc during the rear brake pad replacement?
The Powerbuilt Caliper Tool does not work properly without modification.
From the above photo, the tool is not thick enough. The socket extension bar is sticking out too much. This prevents the tool from engaging the caliper piston.
I put a plastic tab (blue) to stop the extension bar from sticking out.
The Powerbuilt Caliper Tool does not work properly without modification.
From the above photo, the tool is not thick enough. The socket extension bar is sticking out too much. This prevents the tool from engaging the caliper piston.
I put a plastic tab (blue) to stop the extension bar from sticking out.
This summer, my 91 Civic had the red battery light problem. I took the alternator to load test by two different make and model alternator testers. Both gave it good rating. But the battery light still came on.
After checking the ground wires, I went to get a rebuilt alternator which fixed the battery light problem.
My old alternator was not completely dead… but does not gave out enough power to keep the battery light off. It is still charging the battery. I was in a traffic jam for 3 hours with the battery light on without getting a dead battery.
Check your battery, ground wire and belt tension. If they are all good, time to check the alternator. Consider to change the alternator even if the alternator load tester gives it a good rating.
This summer, my 91 Civic had the red battery light problem. I took the alternator to load test by two different make and model alternator testers. Both gave it good rating. But the battery light still came on.
After checking the ground wires, I went to get a rebuilt alternator which fixed the battery light problem.
My old alternator was not completely dead… but does not gave out enough power to keep the battery light off. It is still charging the battery. I was in a traffic jam for 3 hours with the battery light on without getting a dead battery.
Check your battery, ground wire and belt tension. If they are all good, time to check the alternator. Consider to change the alternator even if the alternator load tester gives it a good rating.
[quote=”Mishakol129″ post=33557]
100$ an hour for labor is expensive. Where I am 55$ an hour is normal.Be prepared to fork over some cash. I remember a couple years ago where I spent nearly 1000$ one winter taking my accord to the mechanic. The mechanic I went to didn’t even fix the one major problem I was having, he couldn’t diagnose it. He just replaced what might have been the problem.
So now I am like, “forget going to mechanics, I don’t need to put myself at their mercy for my 20 year old car.” I do all my mechanic work now and have even just rebuilt (overhauled) my accord by myself. 2 years of home mechanic work did me good.[/quote]
I agreed. My Honda dealer wants $1200 to change the timing belt and water pump for my 21 years old 91 Civic with 62,000Km. I will be changing the timing belt and water pump myself in couple of weeks. I have two other cars. I can afford to have my Civic sitting in my garage while waiting for help from this forum if I have questions during the timing belt work.
[quote=”Mishakol129″ post=33557]
100$ an hour for labor is expensive. Where I am 55$ an hour is normal.Be prepared to fork over some cash. I remember a couple years ago where I spent nearly 1000$ one winter taking my accord to the mechanic. The mechanic I went to didn’t even fix the one major problem I was having, he couldn’t diagnose it. He just replaced what might have been the problem.
So now I am like, “forget going to mechanics, I don’t need to put myself at their mercy for my 20 year old car.” I do all my mechanic work now and have even just rebuilt (overhauled) my accord by myself. 2 years of home mechanic work did me good.[/quote]
I agreed. My Honda dealer wants $1200 to change the timing belt and water pump for my 21 years old 91 Civic with 62,000Km. I will be changing the timing belt and water pump myself in couple of weeks. I have two other cars. I can afford to have my Civic sitting in my garage while waiting for help from this forum if I have questions during the timing belt work.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=32379]
In fact many of my VManuals also cover the replacement of oil seals. BTW I have shot the D series video but I haven’t had the time to edit it yet. I hope to get to that later this year.[/quote]
Great. I am the first one to purchase the D Series VManual as soon as it is released.That said I don’t think that’s your problem. I don’t think the crank seal is causing the leak. 98% of the time that leak is caused by the oil pan gasket. If it were me I would replace that first and then recheck for the leak. BTW use a Honda gasket and DO NOT goop it up with RTV, this will actually cause the leak. The best thing to do is use a cordless drill like I did in this video to install the oil pan bolts.
I will go under my civic this weekend to check on the oil pan for leak.
But I will take the upper timing cover off to check the condition of the timing belt since it is the original factory belt. This 91 Civic has only 62,000km on it after 21 years! To remove the upper timing cover, I need to raise the engine head cover a bit. Do I need to remove the spark plugs in order to raise the engine head cover?
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=32379]
In fact many of my VManuals also cover the replacement of oil seals. BTW I have shot the D series video but I haven’t had the time to edit it yet. I hope to get to that later this year.[/quote]
Great. I am the first one to purchase the D Series VManual as soon as it is released.That said I don’t think that’s your problem. I don’t think the crank seal is causing the leak. 98% of the time that leak is caused by the oil pan gasket. If it were me I would replace that first and then recheck for the leak. BTW use a Honda gasket and DO NOT goop it up with RTV, this will actually cause the leak. The best thing to do is use a cordless drill like I did in this video to install the oil pan bolts.
I will go under my civic this weekend to check on the oil pan for leak.
But I will take the upper timing cover off to check the condition of the timing belt since it is the original factory belt. This 91 Civic has only 62,000km on it after 21 years! To remove the upper timing cover, I need to raise the engine head cover a bit. Do I need to remove the spark plugs in order to raise the engine head cover?
