Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I have not find a way to post a photo on this forum. Here is link to a ebay item showing the black “colored” box behind the intake manifold.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/qS0AAOSwEwdf0WU~/s-l1600.jpgI took the head unit(HU) out yeaterday. Disconnected the connectors. From the connector, I measured the resistance from the connector to the each speaker. I got about 3 ohms for all speakers. I also tested for shorts from the speaker wires to ground. All speaker wires are fine without any short to ground. Therefore, the popping noise is not due to speaker wire shorting to ground OR speaker internal short.
I think the problem is inside the HU. I disassemble the HU and put it back together without re-flowing any solder joints. Same as last time, my radio is working again by disassembling and reassembling.
I used the FADE function to disable the both FRONT speakers. ATM, my radio is driving only the REAR speakers. My radio has been working for 1 day driving only the REAR speakers. This is my way to troubleshoot which part of the internal circuit has the problem. Stay tune for more updates.
[quote=”barneyb” post=124025]I had a radio fail that way. It was the digitalizer on the back of the volume control.[/quote]
My 2006 Accord does not have sound and the light is on. I heard pop sound and sound went out when this happened a few months ago. Now, it does not “pop” any more – just not sound.If you repaired digitizer circuit on your radio, please share how you repaired it. Thanks
The radio and the climate controls are in one unit. There are two circuit boards:
– The one, mounted vertically, is for the display panel, volume control and climate control knobs.
– The head unit is mounted perpendicular to the vertical display unit. I open the head unit. Removed the heat sink thermal paste and re-applied a new coat of Arctic MX-4. The sound came back for couple of days. I may have touched something on the display/climate control board to make it worked for couple of days.I will take the unit out again and examine the display/climate control board. If I don’t see any visual sign of burnt components, I will use my hot air repair station to re-flow all solder joints on that board.
Another source of the problem is the connector between the radio unit and the display/climate control board. That is it – the connector is the problem. When I worked on the radio unit to replace the thermal paste, I separate the radio unit from the display/climate control board. It worked for 2 days after re-seating these two units. I will take a closer look at the connector on both unit.
But anyone have the fix for the 2006 Accord radio “pop” and no sound issue. Please let me know. Your help will be appreciated.
Now, I cannot do the test as I already fixed the blower transistor.
Before the blower transistor rebuilt,
1. I cannot adjust the speed of the blower.
2. The blower is always on full speed.
3. A/C came on for a few seconds after starting my Accord with a/c onAfter the blower transistor rebuilt, the a/c and blower works as normal for the last 12 years.
How do you explain that I can turn the a/c off and on after the blower transistor assembly rebuilt?
But I report back after running the a/c for a week.
Finally, I received the 2SK2313 N-channel MOSFET and EYP2BN110 thermal fuse to rebuild my 2006 Accord blower transistor. I applied Arctic MX-4 between the heat sink and these two components.
Now, I can control the speed of the blower and the A/C is working too. The Accord climate control must be monitoring the blower and disable the A/C clutch. This may explain the reason why that the A/C clutch was only engaged for a few seconds after starting my Accord.
I learn a lot about how A/C works and troubleshooting technique. I am ready when my A/C fails in any of my cars. After watching Eric’s cleaning condenser video, I will clean the condensers in my cars next couple of weeks to make sure that the A/C compressors are not working too hard.
Yes. The blower motor is on full speed as soon as my Accord is started independent of heat or A/C selected. I know I need to change the blower transistor to fix the speed control.
My 06 Accord radio speakers are popping without sound. My back lighting is working and my a/c is not working.
Is your A/C working?
I can still start my Accord. I got 14.4V at the battery terminal after my Accord was running.
I took out the MAF sensor and used CRC MAF sensor cleaner to clean it.
Clear the code. Now, I need to go out for a test drive to determine whether the check engine light comes back again of not.I don’t have problem with my transmission from factory. The inline filter has not been changed as it is not a requirement at the dearler. I drained and filled with Honda OEM auto transmission oil once a year. I will change the inline filter if I change or repair done to the transmission.
Thanks for the video.
I have a 91 Civic with 73,700 Km. The Honda crank tool was not invented back then. I will be doing the timing belt change soon. Lol as I said that 2-3 years ago while it had 62,000 Km. It was the Honda crank bolt on the old Civic holding me back.
I have an impact wrench rated 90 psi 500 ft-lb and my 20 gallon compressor can go to 125psi. Is it okay to use 125psi on my 90psi impact wrench to get more torque out from it?
Edit: Recently, I upgraded my 1/4″ ID air hose to a 3/8″ ID air hose. I hope the new air hose will deliver more pressure to my impact.
Thanks for the ideas guy.
There is a pick-n-pull yard in my city. I may try that.
I will keep MAP gas in mind when I need to remove rusty nut or bolt.I used penetrating oil and my impact wrench to remove rusty nuts when I changed the muffler on my 91 Civic 3 months ago.
Yes, this sensor has 4 wires – 2 for heat and 2 for signal. Unfortunately, I cannot find a way to remove the connector to do the measurement.
