[Matt]

Just wanted to give an update on my issue. It was indeed a bad relay, at least a failing relay that inconsistently worked. The times I tested directly with a 12V source, it actually worked, so that only made earlier troubleshooting that much more confusing. I just opted to take a chance and replaced with a new relay and the car no longer has any fuel supply issues. Appreciate the feedback from all.

[Matt]

Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions. So I redid all the tests in the order based on the link provided. All tests passed.

http://www.justanswer.com/car/02vwu-testing-mai…honda-accord-dx.html

On the very last harness test with the relay removed, pins 5 & 7 jumpered on the connector, I do get voltage to the pump’s 2P connector. Knowing from a separate test that the fuel pump works, this seemed to point back to the relay. :blink:

Perplexed, I redid the pin and continuity tests on the relay one more time. Again, it passes. So I’m stumped. I decided to re-install the relay. Now the whole thing works. When key is turned to ON, I get a few seconds of voltage to the 2P pump connector before it shuts due to ECU not detecting engine turning. If I attempt to crank, I get voltage to 2P connector. So I didn’t replace anything and it works normal now.

Aside from the known Mitsuba solder issues, could this be a failing relay where sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t and has nothing to do with the solder points? All the tests were done at room temp so I can’t say the relay only acts up when it gets hot. I don’t believe it’s a ground issue because I didn’t tweak or clean any of my ground points. All grounds visually look good and all tests involving ground always pass. The relay is 20+ years old at this point.

[Matt]

Appreciate the link. Yes, there is spark when I crank. The issue is fuel supply, no fuel to injectors, no sound of fuel pump when ignition switch is first turned ON. So here are the items I’ve checked so far.

– Checked fuses, no breaks observed.
– Took main relay out to test by applying power to respective terminals and getting continuity.
power 6,8 – continuity 5,7
power 2,5 – continuity 1,3
power 3,8 – continuity 5,7
– On main relay connector, continuity verified between pin 2 and body ground.
– On main relay connector, measured voltage between pins 1 and 2.
– On main relay connector, measured voltage between pins 2 and 5 with ignition switch ON.
– Disconnected 3P connector in trunk, jumpered pins 5 and 7 on mail relay connector plug, and found voltage available with positive probe on 3P yellow wire and negative probe on body ground.

I also have my fuel tank dropped and applying a voltage probe to the actual plug under the car that goes to the fuel pump, I get 0 V. I suspect there must be something physically wrong or loose with that small length of wire from 3P in trunk to underbody. Have you encountered this before?

The fuel pump was removed and I applied power direct from 12V battery, it started so I think the fuel pump is fine.

[Matt]

Thanks, those are great ideas. I’ll try tapping the screw head to see if I get lucky. Maybe soaking them in hot solvent. But the exhaust valves definitely have no clearance.

[Matt]

Thanks, those are great ideas. I’ll try tapping the screw head to see if I get lucky. Maybe soaking them in hot solvent. But the exhaust valves definitely have no clearance.

[Matt]

Thanks Raistian77, sounds like you’re thinking the same thing I am which is to replace the arms at this point.

[Matt]

Thanks Raistian77, sounds like you’re thinking the same thing I am which is to replace the arms at this point.

[Author]

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