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Tests that I would do next in order of likelyhood. Of course this is only my opinion.
1. Fuel pressure test. Although p0171 needs to be running, it is possible the pump was on its way out before the car wouldn’t start. Audible noise is never a confirmation of adequate fuel delivery. If pressure is good, then,
2. Pull a spark plug after cranking , is it wet with fuel? If yes, then scan for abnormal coolant temperature. If PIDS all look good, then
3. Then test for Injector power and control (using noid lights or a test light.) If that passes, then,
4. Take a fuel sample and make sure it is not contaminated. Put it in a clear glass bottle and let it sit a while and look for a line of seperation.No p0171? Do you have any other OBD2 data such as fuel trims, o2 waveforms at idle and under a load. How about mode $06 misfire counts?
Starting fluid should tell you if fuel is the missing element without a second set of hands.
If the IAC was frozen, you would still be able to keep it running with the pedal.
Is the engine cranking faster than normal?
If you plan on diagnosing this your self, you may want to look into an OBD2 app and wireless adapter that will display live data including oxygen sensor voltages, ( less than $20 total).
It is very possible that the rear sensors heater is getting weak, and taking too long for the sensor to bring down the 5volt bias, but I have the need to confirm or deny my theories with actual data before replacing anything.
1200 degrees is normal. 1200-1400 is what I see at a 60 mph cruise, and I’m pretty sure it is just a calculated temp.
Not sure if your scantool has it, but you may want to check mode 06 to see if there are any cylinder specific misfires. They won’t set a code unless they misfire more than 2% of the time.