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The FSM for my stratus (which shares the same 2.4 L4 engine as that gen neon) specifies double-plat or copper core NGK plugs (or the equivalent Champion). There are a few different plugs that you can run in the 2.4 without issues, but they need to be in the right heat range/gap/length.
The FSM for my stratus (which shares the same 2.4 L4 engine as that gen neon) specifies double-plat or copper core NGK plugs (or the equivalent Champion). There are a few different plugs that you can run in the 2.4 without issues, but they need to be in the right heat range/gap/length.
I had similar issues with my stratus when I first got it a few years ago (an 04 with the same engine as yours). Changing the spark plugs and wires fixed it, since the last owner used the wrong brand of plugs in the wrong heat range…
What brand of plugs did you use and did you gap them prior to installation? To my knowlage, Dodge 2.4 engines (and dirrivites) use NGK plugs which are supposed to be pre-gapped. I’ve found them to be off a little sometimes requiring a re-gap (but NEVER gap platinum or iridium tipped plugs). Also, if you’re still using the OEM Mopar wires, throw them away asap. They’re known for being junk (and failing early). I’ve had good results using Denso and Autolite wires (currently using the latter, and I prefer them over the Denso ones). Also use dilectric grease when installing the wires (to make sure they last a long time).
Hope this helps and good luck.
I had similar issues with my stratus when I first got it a few years ago (an 04 with the same engine as yours). Changing the spark plugs and wires fixed it, since the last owner used the wrong brand of plugs in the wrong heat range…
What brand of plugs did you use and did you gap them prior to installation? To my knowlage, Dodge 2.4 engines (and dirrivites) use NGK plugs which are supposed to be pre-gapped. I’ve found them to be off a little sometimes requiring a re-gap (but NEVER gap platinum or iridium tipped plugs). Also, if you’re still using the OEM Mopar wires, throw them away asap. They’re known for being junk (and failing early). I’ve had good results using Denso and Autolite wires (currently using the latter, and I prefer them over the Denso ones). Also use dilectric grease when installing the wires (to make sure they last a long time).
Hope this helps and good luck.
First, visually inspect the accessory drive/v belt going to your compressor and make sure it’s aligned. If you have an auto tensioner assembly/idlers in said system, inspect them to make sure they move smoothly, but not too noisily/freely (Eric has videos on inspecting accessory drives, but I don’t have time to find them now). If all that checks out, try manually engaging the compressor clutch (you can jump it with a paper clip/piece of wire, but be sure you know the pinout of the connector so you don’t fry anything). With the compressor clutch engaged, attempt to manually turn the compressor (with the engine off and belt removed). If it’s seized solid/difficult to turn, you probably have a bad compressor. This would possibly explain why your car keeps eating brand new belts (if nothing else is wrong in the accessory drive system).
If your compressor had a major failure, the reason that it’s so expensive to fix is because virtually the whole a/c system needs to be flushed (to remove metal bits from the old compressor that will ruin the replacement). Also, a few additional parts need to be replaced (usually the receiver dryer and expansion valve). Also, many parts suppliers won’t warrantee all of those new expensive parts unless the above are replaced/flushed with an approved product. It’s fairly labor intensive and there’s a lot of expertise and expensive parts involved here, so the repair cost is justifiably expensive.
Good luck!
First, visually inspect the accessory drive/v belt going to your compressor and make sure it’s aligned. If you have an auto tensioner assembly/idlers in said system, inspect them to make sure they move smoothly, but not too noisily/freely (Eric has videos on inspecting accessory drives, but I don’t have time to find them now). If all that checks out, try manually engaging the compressor clutch (you can jump it with a paper clip/piece of wire, but be sure you know the pinout of the connector so you don’t fry anything). With the compressor clutch engaged, attempt to manually turn the compressor (with the engine off and belt removed). If it’s seized solid/difficult to turn, you probably have a bad compressor. This would possibly explain why your car keeps eating brand new belts (if nothing else is wrong in the accessory drive system).
If your compressor had a major failure, the reason that it’s so expensive to fix is because virtually the whole a/c system needs to be flushed (to remove metal bits from the old compressor that will ruin the replacement). Also, a few additional parts need to be replaced (usually the receiver dryer and expansion valve). Also, many parts suppliers won’t warrantee all of those new expensive parts unless the above are replaced/flushed with an approved product. It’s fairly labor intensive and there’s a lot of expertise and expensive parts involved here, so the repair cost is justifiably expensive.
Good luck!
You don’t (know when to stop). R134a cannot be (easily) trimmed. You would be best off taking it to a shop (for them to evacuate it of the old refrigerant), then finding the leak and repairing it yourself (if you have the tools, but more importantly the knowledge). I’m not a professional mechanic, but I did a LOT of research into proper refrigerant handling methods and got EPA certified to handle the stuff before I even attempted my first HVAC repair.
I’m not trying to discourage you, but based on the wording of your question it sounds like you don’t have much background/experience in this area. Good luck!
You don’t (know when to stop). R134a cannot be (easily) trimmed. You would be best off taking it to a shop (for them to evacuate it of the old refrigerant), then finding the leak and repairing it yourself (if you have the tools, but more importantly the knowledge). I’m not a professional mechanic, but I did a LOT of research into proper refrigerant handling methods and got EPA certified to handle the stuff before I even attempted my first HVAC repair.
I’m not trying to discourage you, but based on the wording of your question it sounds like you don’t have much background/experience in this area. Good luck!
My 2nd gen 2.4L stratus had an RTV’d pan with no drain plug, but dorman sells an upgraded design with drain plug and felpro sells tranny pan gaskets for these transmissions. It’s been a year since I’ve changed the fluid/filter/pan/gasket, and no leaks (and it all cost like $50 total, not including the cost of the fluid).
My 2nd gen 2.4L stratus had an RTV’d pan with no drain plug, but dorman sells an upgraded design with drain plug and felpro sells tranny pan gaskets for these transmissions. It’s been a year since I’ve changed the fluid/filter/pan/gasket, and no leaks (and it all cost like $50 total, not including the cost of the fluid).
I bought this one a few months ago, works great and as advertised! Be sure to read the manual though, the button layout isn’t that intuitive..
I bought this one a few months ago, works great and as advertised! Be sure to read the manual though, the button layout isn’t that intuitive..
RE: Dodges being unreliable
I’ve been driving my 04 stratus for almost 3 years, I haven’t had any MAJOR issues “knock on wood”…
I have one with a 2.4L 4 cyl (though I wouldn’t touch the v6 models with a 10 ft. pole). As with any car scheduled maintenance is important (but especially with these cars). My stratus has had some problems I needed to address (the original alternator went at 67k, new upper control arms at 74k, AIR pump went at 78k, original rad went at 80k, etc). To be fair it was a little rough when I bought it, but I bought it dirt cheap (1900 with 63k in 2012) and it’s now a 10 year old vehicle (and old parts are bound to fail sometime).
Soon I’m going to be doing the timing belt/components and replacing nearly all the major components of my front suspension (I want to upgrade to raybestos greasable balljoints/tierods/swaybar links so that I can just re-grease at oil changes and not worry as much about it all falling apart).
I’ll say it again, this car has never left me stranded..unless we’re counting the unexpected college parking lot radiator swap in the dark (but I already had the parts and tools in my back seat so I wasn’t “stranded” per say). Some of the car’s issues MIGHT have left me stranded if I hadn’t kept up with maintenance/inspected things from time to time.
Bottom line, the stratus is ok if you stay away from any v6 model made between the early 90s and 2006.