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Ok, I’ve put about 100 miles on the new brakes since my last post. I can occasionally smell the pads still, but no smoking. Also, my wheels are warm to the touch but not blazing hot (after some hard braking/highway driving). Hopefully the issue is solved.
Thanks!
Ok, I’ll keep an eye on it. The smoke and burning smell only happens on hard/frequent braking, so I think you’re probably right.
Ok, I’ll keep an eye on it. The smoke and burning smell only happens on hard/frequent braking, so I think you’re probably right.
Yep, I mean I already have all of the “special” tools I need for doing the job (for pulling off/re-installing the crank pully, removing the cam sprockets, etc. Most of the local shops around here want over $1,000 to do the job (I don’t blame them) and the local dealers want at least $1,500 for the labor and $500 for parts, so I might as well do it myself. At least I’m working from a Factory Service Manual 😉
Yep, I mean I already have all of the “special” tools I need for doing the job (for pulling off/re-installing the crank pully, removing the cam sprockets, etc. Most of the local shops around here want over $1,000 to do the job (I don’t blame them) and the local dealers want at least $1,500 for the labor and $500 for parts, so I might as well do it myself. At least I’m working from a Factory Service Manual 😉
There is a reason for removing the cam sprockets: They prevent you from removing the rear timing cover, which needs to come off in order to replace the water pump. There are tools available for holding the cams, but they don’t adjust wide enough to work on my engine in stock form. I may buy one and modify it with a longer section of threaded rod so that I can get the adjustment I need.
As far as actually doing this job: this engine is in an 04 stratus sedan. There is more room to work with in this car vs the PT Cruser (but I’ll still be working near a front strut tower). Dropping the engine mount right next to the timing set will also drop the engine just far enough that I can get to things more easily.
Thank you for all of the opinions, I happen to have smaller hands and arms, so hopefully it isn’t so terrible 😉 .
There is a reason for removing the cam sprockets: They prevent you from removing the rear timing cover, which needs to come off in order to replace the water pump. There are tools available for holding the cams, but they don’t adjust wide enough to work on my engine in stock form. I may buy one and modify it with a longer section of threaded rod so that I can get the adjustment I need.
As far as actually doing this job: this engine is in an 04 stratus sedan. There is more room to work with in this car vs the PT Cruser (but I’ll still be working near a front strut tower). Dropping the engine mount right next to the timing set will also drop the engine just far enough that I can get to things more easily.
Thank you for all of the opinions, I happen to have smaller hands and arms, so hopefully it isn’t so terrible 😉 .
I do have a bleeder valve on the front of my tstat housing (and it’s one of the few things that’s really easy to access on this engine). I’ll be sure to bleed all the air out once I’m finished, and I just got my first lisle spill-free funnel (which will make things a little easier/quicker).
Thanks!
I do have a bleeder valve on the front of my tstat housing (and it’s one of the few things that’s really easy to access on this engine). I’ll be sure to bleed all the air out once I’m finished, and I just got my first lisle spill-free funnel (which will make things a little easier/quicker).
Thanks!
Thank you for the reply!
I have all of that information across my Factory Service Manual and Haynes Manual, but what I’m looking for more specifically are any tech tips (from people familiar with these types of DOHC timing belts) to prevent the dual cams from rotating while installing the belt.
Thank you!
Thank you for the reply!
I have all of that information across my Factory Service Manual and Haynes Manual, but what I’m looking for more specifically are any tech tips (from people familiar with these types of DOHC timing belts) to prevent the dual cams from rotating while installing the belt.
Thank you!
By Kilmer’s logic, does this mean that the evaporator should be replaced as well?
I assume the lines can just be flushed out (since they’re not nearly as small), but replacing an otherwise functional evap when replacing a bad compresser adds a lot to the labor (especially if it’s replacement involves removing the heater core…)
By Kilmer’s logic, does this mean that the evaporator should be replaced as well?
I assume the lines can just be flushed out (since they’re not nearly as small), but replacing an otherwise functional evap when replacing a bad compresser adds a lot to the labor (especially if it’s replacement involves removing the heater core…)
I second the HF jacks. I’d stay away from the really small 2 ton jacks, but the steel 3 ton jack is what I’m using (and it’s held up well for the year I’ve had it so far). I picked it up for $75 with a cupon, and this thing weighs about a pound per dollar spent 😉 . Worth noting: regardless of the type of jack you buy, ALWAYS bleed the jack and top off with fluid before using it. It’s also a good idea to grease up the pivot arm (there is a zerk on it, and it’ll squeak if you forget about it).
I second the HF jacks. I’d stay away from the really small 2 ton jacks, but the steel 3 ton jack is what I’m using (and it’s held up well for the year I’ve had it so far). I picked it up for $75 with a cupon, and this thing weighs about a pound per dollar spent 😉 . Worth noting: regardless of the type of jack you buy, ALWAYS bleed the jack and top off with fluid before using it. It’s also a good idea to grease up the pivot arm (there is a zerk on it, and it’ll squeak if you forget about it).