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Pay a little more and get this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html
The one you posted a link to can leak and cause air to get into the system (as can a loose bleeder screw).
Pay a little more and get this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html
The one you posted a link to can leak and cause air to get into the system (as can a loose bleeder screw).
I just checked rockauto and indeed they do not sell pre-bent lines for your car. I suggest removing the entire brake line that your replacing, then use it as a template for bending up the new one. Try to rent the eastwood flaring tool if you can. As far as flaring before bending, you might want to flare one side, then bend, then flare the other end once you have it formed. To avoid running the master dry, buy a pedal holder/use something to hold the brake pedal down part way. This will prevent fluid from exiting the master (and create less of a mess while you’re pulling everything apart).
Good luck!
I just checked rockauto and indeed they do not sell pre-bent lines for your car. I suggest removing the entire brake line that your replacing, then use it as a template for bending up the new one. Try to rent the eastwood flaring tool if you can. As far as flaring before bending, you might want to flare one side, then bend, then flare the other end once you have it formed. To avoid running the master dry, buy a pedal holder/use something to hold the brake pedal down part way. This will prevent fluid from exiting the master (and create less of a mess while you’re pulling everything apart).
Good luck!
Since you’ve been having all of these rust related brake problems, why not just replace all of the hard lines? It’s a fair amount of work, but worth if for the reliability. I’m fairly sure they sell pre-bent hardline for your car, so you can just fish it in and bolt it up (instead of bending/flaring each line).
Also consider upgrading to stainless steel braided brake lines for the front, as they offer less problems long term and are more reliable (to replace the rubber flex hoses).
Since you’ve been having all of these rust related brake problems, why not just replace all of the hard lines? It’s a fair amount of work, but worth if for the reliability. I’m fairly sure they sell pre-bent hardline for your car, so you can just fish it in and bolt it up (instead of bending/flaring each line).
Also consider upgrading to stainless steel braided brake lines for the front, as they offer less problems long term and are more reliable (to replace the rubber flex hoses).
I used a lot of brake clean on both replacement rotors, and I got all of it off of the exterior surfaces. I’m thinking whatever was burning off was on the inside (cooling vents) in the rotors. I have a feeling the smoking was also part of the pads bedding in. The only times they were visibly smoking was upon deceleration on a downward grade from cruising speed (65mph) to 0. It seems everything is fine now, but I’ll keep an eye on it.
Thanks!
I used a lot of brake clean on both replacement rotors, and I got all of it off of the exterior surfaces. I’m thinking whatever was burning off was on the inside (cooling vents) in the rotors. I have a feeling the smoking was also part of the pads bedding in. The only times they were visibly smoking was upon deceleration on a downward grade from cruising speed (65mph) to 0. It seems everything is fine now, but I’ll keep an eye on it.
Thanks!
How many miles are on the transmission and how dirty was the fluid you removed? Overfilling a transmission can be just as bad as underfilling one, but I don’t think the difference between 2.9 and 3 quarts would be the cause of your issues.
How many miles are on the transmission and how dirty was the fluid you removed? Overfilling a transmission can be just as bad as underfilling one, but I don’t think the difference between 2.9 and 3 quarts would be the cause of your issues.