Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
As promised, some pictures and some comments.
Here is what I’ve been working on:
Here is a pic of the tools I have at my disposal for this repair (at least the tools I hauled out of my basement).
A better close up of the tools:
After jacking and placing stands, first the wheel comes off:
Next, the inner splash shield gets removed. Notice the HF panel clip pliers. They make this part a breeze.
Magnetic parts trays are handy for a big job like this. Ideally, have 5 or more to keep track of every nut and bolt (though I didn’t have that many, so I made do:
And the splash shield is out. It is kept in place by 3 bolts that attach it to the front bumper guard, two that attach it to the front fender, and 4 panel clips (that tend to brake if they’re not removed with the right tool)
This is where I start working under the car. And this is a shot of my cameraman stating the importance of good safety goggles:
I’ll post some pictures tonight. That said, I ran into a big issue and I need a little help. I finished putting everything back together today, and when I started the car and it barely wanted to start. While starting it, I gave it some gas and it ran fine. The problem is that it dies after a second when it idles.
Could this be a belt tension issue? If the cams were out of time, the valves would hit and it wouldn’t want to run at all. If the crank was out of time with the cams it would want to die regardless of throttle (I think). I checked my timing 4 times after turning the engine over each time, so I’m not that it’s an issue of the timing marks not matching up.
Also, I have a coolant leak (which I think is the result of an aftermarket part not fitting in exactly right.
Thoughts? This is my daily driver and it’s hard on my whole family not having my car drivable. I really appreciate your insight.
EDIT: The more that I think about this, the more I think that I forgot to plug in the MAP sensor all the way. The engine sounded normal when running around 1.5-2k, but dies at idle. I can’t hear the belt slapping on the timing cover, and it’s not squealing either. Again, it would probably run like crap at any rpm if it was out of time. I have to wait a day to experiment (since it’s raining pretty hard right now), but thoughts?
I’ll post some pictures tonight. That said, I ran into a big issue and I need a little help. I finished putting everything back together today, and when I started the car and it barely wanted to start. While starting it, I gave it some gas and it ran fine. The problem is that it dies after a second when it idles.
Could this be a belt tension issue? If the cams were out of time, the valves would hit and it wouldn’t want to run at all. If the crank was out of time with the cams it would want to die regardless of throttle (I think). I checked my timing 4 times after turning the engine over each time, so I’m not that it’s an issue of the timing marks not matching up.
Also, I have a coolant leak (which I think is the result of an aftermarket part not fitting in exactly right.
Thoughts? This is my daily driver and it’s hard on my whole family not having my car drivable. I really appreciate your insight.
EDIT: The more that I think about this, the more I think that I forgot to plug in the MAP sensor all the way. The engine sounded normal when running around 1.5-2k, but dies at idle. I can’t hear the belt slapping on the timing cover, and it’s not squealing either. Again, it would probably run like crap at any rpm if it was out of time. I have to wait a day to experiment (since it’s raining pretty hard right now), but thoughts?
This repair is taking longer than I expected. I’m going to finish it up and post some pictures in the next few days. I have less pictures than I would have hoped, but at least it can show the difficulty of the job.
This repair is taking longer than I expected. I’m going to finish it up and post some pictures in the next few days. I have less pictures than I would have hoped, but at least it can show the difficulty of the job.
Subie DOHCs are pretty tricky from what I recall.
This one is going to be especially interesting because I not only have to pull the harmonic balancer from the crank, but I also have to remove some engine mount through bolts and jack the engine up and down to get to many of the timing components (as my engine is transversely mounted and all of the timing stuff is stuffed up against my front passenger shock tower…) Also, basically the entire accessory drive system must be dismantled before the lower timing cover can even come off. Not really rocket science, but it’s the little stuff that’ll slow me down I think.
Subie DOHCs are pretty tricky from what I recall.
This one is going to be especially interesting because I not only have to pull the harmonic balancer from the crank, but I also have to remove some engine mount through bolts and jack the engine up and down to get to many of the timing components (as my engine is transversely mounted and all of the timing stuff is stuffed up against my front passenger shock tower…) Also, basically the entire accessory drive system must be dismantled before the lower timing cover can even come off. Not really rocket science, but it’s the little stuff that’ll slow me down I think.
Hey all,
I’m going to do this scheduled maintenance tomorrow (plus replacing all of my heater lines, rusty metal heater tubes, water pump inlet, and all of my engine/tranny mounts). See this thread for the photo essay (which is probably going up sometime later tomorrow).
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/10-Repair-Central-The-How-To-Forum/52658-dodge-2-4-dohc-timing-belt-water-pump-and-more
Hey all,
I’m going to do this scheduled maintenance tomorrow (plus replacing all of my heater lines, rusty metal heater tubes, water pump inlet, and all of my engine/tranny mounts). See this thread for the photo essay (which is probably going up sometime later tomorrow).
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/10-Repair-Central-The-How-To-Forum/52658-dodge-2-4-dohc-timing-belt-water-pump-and-more
Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I have a question relevant/related to this thread. It’s a question about the torque adapter used in the video:
http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-torue-adapter-68283.html#pr-header-back-to-top-link
I’ve read on this thread that people have used this setup and adapter for calibrating 1/4 in click style wrenches. The product overview on the HF tool states that the torque range on this tool is from 29.5 to 147.6 ft. lbs. 30 ft/lbs isn’t even close to the max 200 in/lbs most cheap 1/4″ torque wrenches max out at.
For anyone who has used this tool for an in/lbs torque wrench: how accurate is the HF adapter for calibrating these style wrenches? If this one definitely won’t work in that low of a range, can anybody recommend a digital torque adapter that is made for use in that range? Thanks!
Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I have a question relevant/related to this thread. It’s a question about the torque adapter used in the video:
http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-torue-adapter-68283.html#pr-header-back-to-top-link
I’ve read on this thread that people have used this setup and adapter for calibrating 1/4 in click style wrenches. The product overview on the HF tool states that the torque range on this tool is from 29.5 to 147.6 ft. lbs. 30 ft/lbs isn’t even close to the max 200 in/lbs most cheap 1/4″ torque wrenches max out at.
For anyone who has used this tool for an in/lbs torque wrench: how accurate is the HF adapter for calibrating these style wrenches? If this one definitely won’t work in that low of a range, can anybody recommend a digital torque adapter that is made for use in that range? Thanks!
Cool video! I’ve also done a few of these car audio upgrades/repairs, but the only thing I might have done differently with this repair would be to cut the speaker pigtale off of the junk speaker and reuse it with the new speaker (assuming the wires were in good shape).
Cool video! I’ve also done a few of these car audio upgrades/repairs, but the only thing I might have done differently with this repair would be to cut the speaker pigtale off of the junk speaker and reuse it with the new speaker (assuming the wires were in good shape).
The HF ones do work in a pinch (like you’ve experienced), but they usually break down/degrade much faster than other name brands. Glad you were able to fix it!
