[Peter]

Any thoughts on using dielectric grease on any of these high amperage connections?

[Peter]

Yep, it seems a loose connection could be the easiest explanation. The alternator had to come out for my recent timing belt/component change, so it might have worked it’s way loose over the last month or two since.

Though the alternator I took back to the parts store tested good, the obvious melting of components let to them replacing it anyway. I’m going to get it into the car as soon as my new serpentine belt comes in the mail (they’re so much cheaper online, and I can’t see myself taking things apart twice when I can just do it once).

Good thing I have a spare 😉 .

Also, I’ve finally been able to source a replacement terminal cover. None of the pick and pulls around here have one, and neither do any of the local stealerships. I’ve ordered it online, so hopefully I used the right part number.

Thank you for all the replies!

[Peter]

Yep, it seems a loose connection could be the easiest explanation. The alternator had to come out for my recent timing belt/component change, so it might have worked it’s way loose over the last month or two since.

Though the alternator I took back to the parts store tested good, the obvious melting of components let to them replacing it anyway. I’m going to get it into the car as soon as my new serpentine belt comes in the mail (they’re so much cheaper online, and I can’t see myself taking things apart twice when I can just do it once).

Good thing I have a spare 😉 .

Also, I’ve finally been able to source a replacement terminal cover. None of the pick and pulls around here have one, and neither do any of the local stealerships. I’ve ordered it online, so hopefully I used the right part number.

Thank you for all the replies!

[Peter]

Yep, I had a spare terminal nut and washer to replace the somewhat melted ones. I also did a diode test on the alternator that caused the melting, and it failed badly. I’m going to the parts store now to exchange it.

[Peter]

Yep, I had a spare terminal nut and washer to replace the somewhat melted ones. I also did a diode test on the alternator that caused the melting, and it failed badly. I’m going to the parts store now to exchange it.

[Peter]

I did check all the connections, the b+ terminal and wire were all snug (I actually had trouble getting the nut off because it got hot enough to start melting the nut a little).

I tested my battery again/did a parasitic draw test, and it turns out the alternator was drawing current. My battery voltage also jumped from 12.32 to 12.5V after disconnecting the alternator and re-installing my backup. Now I’m going to return this shorted duralast alternator (That’s less than a year old) and get another one. I’ll make sure to have them test the replacement before I’m out the door though (it has a lifetime warranty, so it’ll be free).

Thanks!

[Peter]

I did check all the connections, the b+ terminal and wire were all snug (I actually had trouble getting the nut off because it got hot enough to start melting the nut a little).

I tested my battery again/did a parasitic draw test, and it turns out the alternator was drawing current. My battery voltage also jumped from 12.32 to 12.5V after disconnecting the alternator and re-installing my backup. Now I’m going to return this shorted duralast alternator (That’s less than a year old) and get another one. I’ll make sure to have them test the replacement before I’m out the door though (it has a lifetime warranty, so it’ll be free).

Thanks!

[Peter]

Harbor Freight has some good stuff, but I would not buy a scan tool from them…

This is the scan tool I’ve been using for a a year or two:

http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3160-Professional-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001QIUGVI

This scan tool may be almost $200 currently, but it has live data, is bi-directional, and reads both srs and abs on most foreign and domestic vehicles. Also worth noting, it does obd2/CAN out of the box (and is also capible of doing OBD1, but you need to buy an extra adapter kit to get the adapters (which cost about as much as the 3160 by itself…). Finally, it also gives you the code definitions on screen, is capable of reading manufacturer specific codes (engine, tranny, and other odd specialty codes), and can log live data (and graph it out on the device on the fly).

If you can’t justify spending that much on a scan tool (I couldn’t for a while), you can’t go wrong with this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3030-Innova-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B000EVYGQY

I bought this one before I picked up my 3160, and I still keep it in my road tool box. It doesn’t give you code definitions, but it’s fairly solid. Also, despite this being one of their consumer grade scan tools it does scan for and clear abs codes.

Any ideas on how you’re getting that broken bolt out yet? If you can thread a bolt into the hole you drilled, consider hiring a welder to carefully weld a bolt into the one with the broken head (to give you another shot at extracting it).

[Peter]

Harbor Freight has some good stuff, but I would not buy a scan tool from them…

This is the scan tool I’ve been using for a a year or two:

http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3160-Professional-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001QIUGVI

This scan tool may be almost $200 currently, but it has live data, is bi-directional, and reads both srs and abs on most foreign and domestic vehicles. Also worth noting, it does obd2/CAN out of the box (and is also capible of doing OBD1, but you need to buy an extra adapter kit to get the adapters (which cost about as much as the 3160 by itself…). Finally, it also gives you the code definitions on screen, is capable of reading manufacturer specific codes (engine, tranny, and other odd specialty codes), and can log live data (and graph it out on the device on the fly).

If you can’t justify spending that much on a scan tool (I couldn’t for a while), you can’t go wrong with this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3030-Innova-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B000EVYGQY

I bought this one before I picked up my 3160, and I still keep it in my road tool box. It doesn’t give you code definitions, but it’s fairly solid. Also, despite this being one of their consumer grade scan tools it does scan for and clear abs codes.

Any ideas on how you’re getting that broken bolt out yet? If you can thread a bolt into the hole you drilled, consider hiring a welder to carefully weld a bolt into the one with the broken head (to give you another shot at extracting it).

[Peter]

Nice pics!

Is it just me, or does that caliper look a little wet with something around the dust boot? I have and work on an 04 Stratus (same as the 2nd gen sebring).

Also, have you ever changed the water pump on this car? The Chrysler v6 engines in this generation of cars are known to go through water pumps every 40k-60k miles. Since the water pump in your v6 is located within the crankcase, once the water pump starts weeping (and it will eventually) coolant get sent into the oil. Since this mixing isn’t evident by stains on your driveway, you usually don’t realize it until the engine starts knocking/bearings start spinning.

[Peter]

Nice pics!

Is it just me, or does that caliper look a little wet with something around the dust boot? I have and work on an 04 Stratus (same as the 2nd gen sebring).

Also, have you ever changed the water pump on this car? The Chrysler v6 engines in this generation of cars are known to go through water pumps every 40k-60k miles. Since the water pump in your v6 is located within the crankcase, once the water pump starts weeping (and it will eventually) coolant get sent into the oil. Since this mixing isn’t evident by stains on your driveway, you usually don’t realize it until the engine starts knocking/bearings start spinning.

[Peter]

I would have done that, but I had to remove one engine mount and remove the through bolt for another. I didn’t want to risk the engine falling off of the bottle jack while running and cause damage to anything (especially if it ran rough). If all the mounts could have stayed in place, I would have started it after getting the belt on.

[Peter]

I would have done that, but I had to remove one engine mount and remove the through bolt for another. I didn’t want to risk the engine falling off of the bottle jack while running and cause damage to anything (especially if it ran rough). If all the mounts could have stayed in place, I would have started it after getting the belt on.

[Peter]

Did you read the link I added to my post? All of the impacts they listed were tested for their fastening and loosening torque (using a 1 inch bolts threaded into a steel beam), and those numbers are included in the breakdown.

[Peter]

Did you read the link I added to my post? All of the impacts they listed were tested for their fastening and loosening torque (using a 1 inch bolts threaded into a steel beam), and those numbers are included in the breakdown.

[Author]

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