Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I’ve replaced the valve cover 3 times. Once because I cracked the valve cover when replacing the pcv valve (I over-tightened the valve and caused the valve cover to crack (and the crack kept growing and causing leaks/problems). Before I over tightened it, I had it installed at the right torque spec and it leaked slowly at the threads (which were not damaged). I replaced that one with a used valve cover/new gaskets. That new cover also failed in the same way (after replacing the pcv valve). After all of this, I bought a new, factory valve cover with preinstalled pcv. The pcv on the new factory unit was sealed with some kind of liquid sealer (which looks a lot like the permatex stuff I have). The FSM also says to use a liquid sealer, but the product they reference is no longer produced…
So, I know I need a sealer, but I’m still not sure what to use.
Thanks all!
I’ll keep you guys posted once I get around to replacing them. I need to also replace my lower control arms, sway bar end links/bushings, and a few other things on the front end. Would it be wise to change the tie rods once I remove the lower control arms (to give myself more room to work?
Thanks again!
With all of the issues you’re having, you might want to get a power probe kit with a circuit tracer (which comes in the deluxe kit for a few extra $$). Once you have a factory service manual, you can start tracing circuits one at a time. At lease it would allow you to start narrowing down where the source of these issues is coming from (considering BCMs arn’t cheap and I’m not sure if there is a clear/direct method to test them).
Good luck!
Ok, I finally got around to changing my oil today.
Among other things (like fixing a loose hose clamp on one of my transmission cooler lines), I got around to pulling the oil pressure sending unit off again. Turns out that the threads weren’t leaking, it was a bad seal in the sensor (pumping oil through the back of the electrical connector. Dunno why it failed again like this (the part is less than 6 months old). I went to autozone and they gave me another replacement. I re-installed it after my oil change and I don’t see any leaks yet (so I’m keeping my fingers crossed).
The good news is that I’ve gotten pretty good at pulling this sensor out now (since it’s on the back of the block, and access to it is blocked by one of the CVs and the transmission)..
It’s leaking from the threads.
Do you mean I should tighten it until fairly snug or until it won’t easily turn anymore?
Thank you!
Update:
We finally opened the top since it was closed at the start of winter (when we replaced it), and it latches back down without much of a struggle. Problem is, we still need to keep the zip ties in the latch mechanism to act as a shim (since the latches are worn down from being 13 years old). My friend might replace the latches, but the car is getting kind of rusty underneath. I may try to engineer a homemade solution to put more material back on the latches 😉 .
Ok, so I got this sensor changed out, but it seems that I still have a slow oil leak from the sender. The replacement was an autozone unit with a little teflon on the threads from the time of purchase.
Should I remove it again, apply liberally apply new thread sealant, then re-install? Also, how tight should it go on? My FSM doesn’t supply a torque spec for this sensor. I ran it down until it no longer turned (I wen’t a quarter turn past that, but it’s not on super tight). Is it possible I over tightened the sensor?
Thank you!
I have a 2nd gen stratus se (2004). I have a full set of factory service manuals/wiring diagrams, but I don’t think they’ll help much. I would recomend getting a factory service manual cd for your exact model year, and trace the circut (see what circut all of these items go through/what they all have in common).
Does the car run at all? You might have a bad fusable link or ground somewhere. A power probe would be your friend here. Also, try to confirm you are getting power at both of your fuse blocks (interior and exterior). The fuses could be good, but not getting power. I’ll look at my wiring diagrams and see if I can provide you with anything useful.
Good luck!
Thank you college man for the page, it will be useful if we ever need to replace the top in the future.
UPDATE!
We got it latched. It’s been raining/hailing pretty hard here for the last few days. His interior got a good soaking, but it also means that the canvas got soaked (which gave it a little more stretch). With my siblings home for Thanksgiving, we all pushed on it and got it latched.
That said, there is still a problem…
The passenger side latched and locked, but the drivers side would only latch (and the lock did not keep it shut, though the cam on the latch bottomed out). For now, I zip tied it shut. Since he only lives a mile from my place, it should be fine. He’s not driving the car for a few days, so hopefully it will stretch enough by being up and latched that we can get it locked in a few days (assuming there aren’t mechanical problems with the lock).
I’ll update you guys again when we can finally get it latched. Then we can leak test it… If we have major leaks, this thread might just be getting started… But at least it’s latched!
Happy Thanksgiving!
Thank you college man for the page, it will be useful if we ever need to replace the top in the future.
UPDATE!
We got it latched. It’s been raining/hailing pretty hard here for the last few days. His interior got a good soaking, but it also means that the canvas got soaked (which gave it a little more stretch). With my siblings home for Thanksgiving, we all pushed on it and got it latched.
That said, there is still a problem…
The passenger side latched and locked, but the drivers side would only latch (and the lock did not keep it shut, though the cam on the latch bottomed out). For now, I zip tied it shut. Since he only lives a mile from my place, it should be fine. He’s not driving the car for a few days, so hopefully it will stretch enough by being up and latched that we can get it locked in a few days (assuming there aren’t mechanical problems with the lock).
I’ll update you guys again when we can finally get it latched. Then we can leak test it… If we have major leaks, this thread might just be getting started… But at least it’s latched!
Happy Thanksgiving!
The problem with the OEM blower was that it was working intermittently, and bench testing indicated that the motor was dying (it was not blowing so fast on high, it would spin very slowly at first and then start blowing like normal). The noise isn’t TOO annoying, I just want to avoid replacing this AGAIN in the dead of winter in my driveway (if I can help it) should the replacement fail soon.
Thank you!
The problem with the OEM blower was that it was working intermittently, and bench testing indicated that the motor was dying (it was not blowing so fast on high, it would spin very slowly at first and then start blowing like normal). The noise isn’t TOO annoying, I just want to avoid replacing this AGAIN in the dead of winter in my driveway (if I can help it) should the replacement fail soon.
Thank you!
Speaking of the spill free funnel (slightly related topic) …
I have the spill free funnel (a newer one), and I can’t get it to fit well onto the chrysler 2.4L (in the stratus/sebering/pt cruser). The cap part fits, but it seems none of the necks in the kit are thick enough to prevent leaks (if that makes any sense).
Speaking of the spill free funnel (slightly related topic) …
I have the spill free funnel (a newer one), and I can’t get it to fit well onto the chrysler 2.4L (in the stratus/sebering/pt cruser). The cap part fits, but it seems none of the necks in the kit are thick enough to prevent leaks (if that makes any sense).