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99% of the time I use Diamomd grip nitrate gloves off the tool truck. I can get them dirty, easily take them off and then just wipe the sweat off my hands before entering a customers car. When I’m doing something not conducive to the rubber, I use cheapo grease monkey brand gloves from Home Depot. Tight fitting and easy movement.
Ford Taurus with Vulcan engine. If you use oil filter plaits , you have to maneuver them around the exposed starter solinoid to keep from crossing them. For this reason I unhook the battery when changing oil. Seems stupid to have the starter solinoid right where it is 100% guaranteed that hands and metal tools will need to go.
It makes sense if the alternator is the only thing belt driven. Last alternator I changed was on a Toyota paseo where the alternator, AC compressor, PS pump and water pump were all driven off the serpentine belt. Would have been a lot easier if it had a separate tensioner. Another reason to advocate for a tensioner: They CAN be placed in a more convenient location when the mfg chooses to. Makes belt changes much easier than having to loosen the bolt on an alternator.
Coil packs on the gen 4 Ford Taurus. Mounted to the valve cover with no real heat protection, not to mention the poor quality part to begin with.
Any engines where the alternator is also the belt tensioner (much easier to have a separate tensioner)
I am very impressed with my craftsman screwdrivers, and I think their socket sets are great for the price. I have been more and more impressed with kobalt lately, especially the fact that lowes carry individual components to their tool kits for the inevitable “car ate my socket”. Need a non deep well 6 point 14mm impact socket? Just stop by lowes.
I am pleased with my husky tool box, in our shop the only tool boxes that didn’t come off the tool trucks are huskys and a couple US generals.
Make sure you have some thin wall impact sockets in common lug sized for custom wheels that don’t allow room for the standard socket. Also a good idea to have a variety of common wheel lock keys for when the customer cannot find theirs. A good set of pry bars and a dead blow hammer will be worth their weight in gold. Also, an electric impact driver will save lots of time if you have to remove hubcaps held on with torx screws.
Do you know what your duties will be at the dealership?
I’ll be watching this thread, mine is bend all to he||. Maybe you could weld a piece of angle to the frame or remaining weld? That would allow you to jack the car up at least
I don’t have to deal with too many vettes. In Tennessee we deal with a lot of big lifted trucks with mud tires, those are some of the worst. Short lug nuts recessed into the wheels, every but takes a key, hubcap has to be removed with torx bit, you get the idea. The guys driving them can also be a pain. Fortunately our shop has a very very small window, most of our “fish bowlers” are actually standing outside the bay door.
If I recall, I got it at lowes. Should be able to find one at and royobi dealer.
I have used the recip saw for cutting frozen pork loins :silly: Also useful for junkyard trips
I don’t have experience with many brands, but I have been thrilled with my ryobi cordless tools. I have two drills, a driver, recipe saw and circular saw. I also know people who really like Home Depots rigid tools. Whatever you get, consider the cost of new batteries. A good set of tools will outlast it’s original batteries
I work in a tire shop, obviously a starting job. We hire guys who have graduated technical schools and we have to teach them how to use the impact gun!
My advice, skip the school and start work in a tire shop! It’s an entry level job, so if you work hard and don’t complain, you will stand out. Maybe start flipping cars on the side to get into more mechanical work. Plus if you work in a shop like mine where we also have mechanics, there is a great wealth of information in them for the taking.
I am really hating on automotive schools right now
May sound whiny after some of what you guys do, but….
As a tech on the tire side, I hate any low profile tires. I also strongly dislike cheap chrome painted custom rims, nothing like doing an 8 ounce static balance.
Another thing that grinds my gears:
We offer free lifetime rotation and balance if you purchase tires with us. It’s up to the customer if they want them rotated or rotate and balanced. we have guys with trucks and jeeps with mud tires that come in every few thousand miles and want a rotate balance. I end up scraping off weights that are still clean. And mud tires never balance well. I guess they figure because they shelled out $1500 + on tires they should try and get their money’s worth.