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Great video on crank main bearing blueprinting. I did not know an engine builder could mix and match different sized bearing shells to achieve the desired clearance. My understanding was that a bearing “set” must remain unmolested, in other words, if your clearances are too tight, then you go up to the next size “set” or grind/polish down the crank mains to get the clearance to spec. However, I’ve never built an engine along the lines of #DarkMatterPikachu so there’s that.
Sounds like an issue with the clutch master, slave, and/or throw-out bearing. Will it go into gear easier after pumping the clutch pedal?
To the Naysayers:
Nothing wrong with tacking in that ball joint. The tack welds are just preventing the ball joint socket from turning inside the LCA. Once assembled, that ball joint is not going anywhere. As mentioned earlier, if it passes alignment spec, then it’s a good repair. Furthermore, if I brought my beater car into a trusted technician like Eric, and he presented me with the same findings, I would opt for the same thing rather than spend more money on an LCA I don’t need for a beater car.Hot Lashing–Setting the valve lash (clearance) on an engine with hydraulic lifters while the engine is idling at normal operating temperature.
This is possible on many older engine designs with hydraulic cams and adjustable rocker arms. Before you attempt it, make sure it can be done on your particular engine, or you may damage it.
I’m not familiar with the 4.0 V6, but the injectors should be located on the intake runners where they mate with the heads. You might have to move some stuff to get at them, but they should be out in the open.
There are no real consequences with an engine that’s been missing for a while (except for the fouled plug), as your compression test shows. As for the noise, I would check the exhaust system from the heads back. As an aside, some older Chevys had a heat-riser valve installed just after one of the exhaust manifolds. I have seen these contraptions fail and make a loud, intermittent noise similar to what you have in the video. I don’t know if the later Fords had a similar setup, but I would check to be sure. It also sounds like it could be a bad lifter. You might try hot lashing the valves (if rockers are adjustable) and see if this affects the noise at all (better, same, or worse).
Yes, based on your diagnostic tests so far, I would have to say it’s the fuel injector on #3. To confirm this even more, you can swap the #3 injector into a good cylinder and see if the problem travels with the injector.
However, the clacking sound may turn out to be a separate issue.
My first thought is a plugged or restricted transmission breather. Someone could have also overfilled the transmission.
Electric fuel pump, right? I wonder if it could be a bad fuel pump ground? Just brainstorming at this point.
My theory is that it’s there to keep the motor case from flexing too much while cranking the engine. Nice to have, but not imperative. The more important thing is to make sure you are shimmed correctly to the flexplate.
No, it’s not mandatory that it be installed. It’s a value-added kind of thing. I ran just the two long bolts in my Chevy starters for years without any problems. If memory serves, I don’t think they even had the third bolt.
I would just check them periodically to make sure they’re tight. At every oil change is a good time to check them.
Well, if the thermostat is functioning correctly, then the only other thing I can think of is that coolant is bypassing around the thermostat somehow and going into the rad. You can test the thermostat in a pot of water over the stove using a candy thermometer.
Very strange indeed. This may be a long-shot, but I would probably check the engine and trans mounts first, followed by the harmonic balancer, flexplate/torque converter, and exhaust system flanges and hangers. My initial thought is something is loose in the drive line and putting the trans in drive temporarily torques it up tight again.
What was the temperature value on the thermostat you installed? It’s probably too low. You might try stopping at the Chevy dealer and get the correct factory thermostat for your vehicle.
Eric, Cameraman Brian and I agree that the engine flop was the highlight of the video! :woohoo: I thought for sure that engine was going to hit the floor! On my old (cheap) engine stand it would have. A good rule of thumb is always align the mounting head pivot (pipe) with the cam centerline on a V-engine. Thanks for keeping it in the video. We appreciate everything you do!