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Have some good new, as of right now. When I left work the abs light was off and stayed off. They pedal still felt a bit sponger than I would like but I will attempt to bleed the front again to see if I can firm it up a bit more.
I am thinking now, the calipers may have been sitting in, similar to what you had said before. Still skeptical right now, but will let you know if there is any air in the system.Yes, the pedal seems to feel good now. The abs light came on this morning on my way into work. I have not driven it since but will let you know if it stays on.or not. I will also check the float and sensors. If it comes on again I might stop by an advance auto, the guy I chatted with online said they can read abs codes; didn’t think they could be we shall see. Thanks again, I will keep you updated.
ok, thanks for the explanation, makes sense. Is it common for air in the line to cause the ABS light to stay on or is it more likely that the air has reached the abs pump causing the light?
Not certain how air was introduced if it was. I only bleed the front wheels because they were the only lines I opened. I also made sure I topped off the master so it would not run dry. I did gravity bleed them for a few seconds, tightened the bleeder and attached the bleeding tube. Do you think that I should do all 4 wheels?
The pedal feels good now too, which is strange. Going to rebleed and see if I can reset the abs light like you said. Will update later.I just watched the video again and it looks to be similar. Now I am wondering if I need to take the other end of the brake hose off in order to achieve a proper connection
haha ok i going to look for that extra fuel line. Thanks for getting back to me, I am just a bit paranoid a I will lose another expensive cat. I didn’t mention but I am also trying to make sure the numbers are good before I have to get my car inspected in my state of PA. Once again thanks for the help.
haha ok i going to look for that extra fuel line. Thanks for getting back to me, I am just a bit paranoid a I will lose another expensive cat. I didn’t mention but I am also trying to make sure the numbers are good before I have to get my car inspected in my state of PA. Once again thanks for the help.
Ok, I am picking up what you are putting down, I am just concerned with melting a cat. If the lower o2’s are reading rich does that mean the cat could be overheating from fuel being dumped? From what I read from several sites the lower o2 should be around .450 volts and mine are not even close. Something is not right here.
I have two videos of readings, one at idle and one with raised rpms, not sure if this helps. I did notice the engine load % drop when raising the rpms, thought it should move up not down. Also if you look at the both upstream o2’s bank 1 seems to be changing slower.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_S-Dt_wQXdg at idle
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yerSUrNgIk with some throttle
Ok, I am picking up what you are putting down, I am just concerned with melting a cat. If the lower o2’s are reading rich does that mean the cat could be overheating from fuel being dumped? From what I read from several sites the lower o2 should be around .450 volts and mine are not even close. Something is not right here.
I have two videos of readings, one at idle and one with raised rpms, not sure if this helps. I did notice the engine load % drop when raising the rpms, thought it should move up not down. Also if you look at the both upstream o2’s bank 1 seems to be changing slower.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_S-Dt_wQXdg at idle
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yerSUrNgIk with some throttle
The LTFT on both banks are reading slightly rich (-3.9) at idle and (-4.9) under load. STFT seems to be staying +/- 5. The lower/downstream o2’s are reading very rich at idle (above .700volts)but then goes up and down rapidly under load, see video in previous post. I do not think that is normal?
Also if anyone has any info for PID data on a 2003 escape showing acceptible readings/ranges, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
The LTFT on both banks are reading slightly rich (-3.9) at idle and (-4.9) under load. STFT seems to be staying +/- 5. The lower/downstream o2’s are reading very rich at idle (above .700volts)but then goes up and down rapidly under load, see video in previous post. I do not think that is normal?
Also if anyone has any info for PID data on a 2003 escape showing acceptible readings/ranges, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
I already replaced the bank 2 cat with the used one I had purchased, due to lack of power under load, the downstream o2 sensor was almost identical to the upstream, and the CEL for P0430.
The escape is seems like it is running great but now both downstream 02’s are reading extremely rich under idle and extremely lean under load.
The upstream o2’s are reading normal at idle and changing rapidly from .1 to .8 but under load i did notice a change, the reading dropped the max so .1 to .650, but once the load was release it went right back to normal.
I do not think my cats are an issue at this point, I am thinking fuel system related, dirty or bad MAF, or some type of vacuum leak under load. I am concerned that the rich condition at idle will melt another cat.I already replaced the bank 2 cat with the used one I had purchased, due to lack of power under load, the downstream o2 sensor was almost identical to the upstream, and the CEL for P0430.
The escape is seems like it is running great but now both downstream 02’s are reading extremely rich under idle and extremely lean under load.
The upstream o2’s are reading normal at idle and changing rapidly from .1 to .8 but under load i did notice a change, the reading dropped the max so .1 to .650, but once the load was release it went right back to normal.
I do not think my cats are an issue at this point, I am thinking fuel system related, dirty or bad MAF, or some type of vacuum leak under load. I am concerned that the rich condition at idle will melt another cat.The front bank exhaust manifold with the cat built into it has been replaced (rpms are back as well, see above), I took it out for a drive and noticed that whether at idle or cruising at 60 mph, both down stream 02’s are reading rich around .700-.750 but when the throttle is snapped or even slightly increase the o2 instantly drops to below .250 volts and when release they jump right back to rich or .700-.750. See video for live data of O2 B2S2 while at approx. 60mph.
I am working on getting a thermo gun but I feel like i may have a vacuum issue again. When I raise the throttle when parked I think i am hearing a vacuum leak but only when rpms are increasing. I do not notice any misfiring.
