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I’m not familiar with Nissan Z cars, but would want to see some service history on this car, especially if the 30/60/90K major services had been done, plus coolant and brake fluid changes. Does engine in this car have a timing belt? If so then you’d better check at what mileage Nissan wants it replaced; that’s a major expense. Most cars with timing belts get a water pump replaced when the belt’s changed too, because it’s the same amount of labor to get to it by itself. False economy to not replace it while engine’s apart for a timing belt. The manual transmission on this car is a plus for me over the automatic.
I’m not familiar with Nissan Z cars, but would want to see some service history on this car, especially if the 30/60/90K major services had been done, plus coolant and brake fluid changes. Does engine in this car have a timing belt? If so then you’d better check at what mileage Nissan wants it replaced; that’s a major expense. Most cars with timing belts get a water pump replaced when the belt’s changed too, because it’s the same amount of labor to get to it by itself. False economy to not replace it while engine’s apart for a timing belt. The manual transmission on this car is a plus for me over the automatic.
The bank or credit union that holds the lien on this 350Z also holds the title. If you wanted to buy this car you’d want to do the transaction at the bank so seller can pay off the note and transfer title to you. Be very careful here if this is the car you’re set on. For you to title and register your “new” car in your name the previous lien must be cleared. Don’t just give seller the funds and expect the paperwork to “flow,” because worst case scenario is you get the car with no title and seller quits paying the note. Then bank repossesses their car and you’re out the 11K plus walking to work.
The bank or credit union that holds the lien on this 350Z also holds the title. If you wanted to buy this car you’d want to do the transaction at the bank so seller can pay off the note and transfer title to you. Be very careful here if this is the car you’re set on. For you to title and register your “new” car in your name the previous lien must be cleared. Don’t just give seller the funds and expect the paperwork to “flow,” because worst case scenario is you get the car with no title and seller quits paying the note. Then bank repossesses their car and you’re out the 11K plus walking to work.
I’ve been an AMSOIL dealer for 15 years, new to this forum. Would like to make a couple of points:
1. The AMSOIL engine oil filters come in two versions, 1yr/15K miles and 1yr/25K miles. The difference is filter size (capacity).
2. There’s no such additive termed “viscosity indexer.” The oil you are referring to is formulated for Natural Gas stationary engines. If you’re looking for an automotive 10W-40 we have two choices – Premium Protection and XL. They’re both excellent.
I’ve been an AMSOIL dealer for 15 years, new to this forum. Would like to make a couple of points:
1. The AMSOIL engine oil filters come in two versions, 1yr/15K miles and 1yr/25K miles. The difference is filter size (capacity).
2. There’s no such additive termed “viscosity indexer.” The oil you are referring to is formulated for Natural Gas stationary engines. If you’re looking for an automotive 10W-40 we have two choices – Premium Protection and XL. They’re both excellent.
Recommend you check oil level more frequently and keep it topped up. Sump capacity for your engine is only 4.5 quarts, so running it low on oil is very hard on the engine. Are you using the recommended 0W-20 viscosity?
Recommend you check oil level more frequently and keep it topped up. Sump capacity for your engine is only 4.5 quarts, so running it low on oil is very hard on the engine. Are you using the recommended 0W-20 viscosity?
If you need a daily driver I’d go with the ’87 325. From your post it sounds like the ’75 2002 is a restoration project. A good book recently out is Rob Siegel’s Memoirs of a Hack Mechanic. He wrote a monthly column for BMW Car Club, and has owned/restored dozens of 2002s.
If you need a daily driver I’d go with the ’87 325. From your post it sounds like the ’75 2002 is a restoration project. A good book recently out is Rob Siegel’s Memoirs of a Hack Mechanic. He wrote a monthly column for BMW Car Club, and has owned/restored dozens of 2002s.
Agree with Bill’s advice on transfer case and differential fluids. All your driveline components need regular servicing. If that’s not been done start there.
Agree with Bill’s advice on transfer case and differential fluids. All your driveline components need regular servicing. If that’s not been done start there.
[quote=”LS2000″ post=68779]Hello all, for the past two days I’ve been having a weird shift issue. I am a pretty aggressive driver and the computer should’ve have learned my driving habits by now. Anyway, I normally use the highway to go to work every morning and I normally cruise around 60MPH (2k-2.2kRPM). When I press the gas, the RPM goes up a bit then drops to around 1.4-1.5K and the speed dosent increase. It feels as if I’m not getting any response from the throttle at all unless I floor it. Any ideas?[/quote]
How many miles on this car, and have you kept up with maintenance, especially transmission fluid/filter servicing? I’d start with the inexpensive basics: fuel filter, air filter, clean MAF sensor and throttle body. See if there’s any improvement. If not, then it’s on to more comprehensive stuff like transmission service and spark plugs.
[quote=”LS2000″ post=68779]Hello all, for the past two days I’ve been having a weird shift issue. I am a pretty aggressive driver and the computer should’ve have learned my driving habits by now. Anyway, I normally use the highway to go to work every morning and I normally cruise around 60MPH (2k-2.2kRPM). When I press the gas, the RPM goes up a bit then drops to around 1.4-1.5K and the speed dosent increase. It feels as if I’m not getting any response from the throttle at all unless I floor it. Any ideas?[/quote]
How many miles on this car, and have you kept up with maintenance, especially transmission fluid/filter servicing? I’d start with the inexpensive basics: fuel filter, air filter, clean MAF sensor and throttle body. See if there’s any improvement. If not, then it’s on to more comprehensive stuff like transmission service and spark plugs.