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I just picked up a Kobalt 227 Piece Tool set for 99$ at Lowes. Fantastic Quality and have a great feel. Lifetime Warrenty, Plus has (SFL) Sockets for life so if you ever lose any pieces. Just pay for the shipping and handling and you got a new piece. Kind of Nifty.
But…If you have money to burn…..Just kidding, Honestly though. It depends what you plan on using them for. If you are a weekend warrior and don’t run a shop and they are not getting beat on every day, all day. Then Kobalt or a Craftsman Toolset will do just fine.
Thats just my .02
December 4, 2011 at 11:00 am in reply to: WHICH CONVENTIONAL OIL IS THE BEST OF THESE BRAND NAMES #458110Indeed, No need to yell. But is there a reason why you are dead set on Regular Oil? Why not Synthetic?
Quoted From johnzcarz:
What don’t you like about QState?
Well for one. QStates Normal Synthetic shears pretty bad. It also has a awful pour point. For colder weather its a no go. If you live up North and catch a -30/-40 Day, Well your car will have a bad day to say the least. I’m not sure how well Ultimate Durability is however. I’ll have to look into it. But honestly, Even a “Average” Synthetic will be leaps ahead of normal Conventional.
Quoted From steel eater:
Since we’re on the topic of oil, what does everybody use? I go with Valvoline oil and Purolator filters
Valvoline makes some good oils. Do you use the Purolator Classic or Pure one? The Pure one is a fantastic filter for the price.
There is alot of good information in this thread.
Yes, Oils have came a long way. With Additive packages, Synthetic Blends and Full Synthetics oils are much better now, But!, If you drive your car hard, If you do lots of city driving, shorter intervals are more practical. City driving is more harsh on the OIl. If you do alot of highway driving? Honestly 7500-12500 Miles Easy. If you have a decent oil and filter. Check your oil often and if you want more peace of mind? Take a sample and send it off for a UOA (Used Oil Analysis) They will tell you if your oil still has life in it.
But yes, Oil is cheaper then a whole new engine. But honestly, there is no reason in throwing away good oil. Its a waste of money and oil. Engines and Oil has progressed alot. Just keep a eye on your oil and make sure it does not get low. That will cause more damage then “Used” Oil will.
Amsoil EaO, Royal Purple, Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil filters are all better then what you are currently using. But they are all over 10 dollars a filter, If you’re willing to spend that, Honestly what you’re using now is quite good.
OLM (Oil Life Monitors) Are not accurate. Not even remotely so I agree with Fader, Do not follow the idiot light. They do not actively test the oil or anything. The ECU almost “guesses” So it is not accurate.
Yes, Aftermarket CAI (Cold Air intakes) and RAI’s (Ram Air Intakes) Do work, There has been Dyno proven results behind this, However, Is it worth it? Well that all depends on what you drive and what you want from your car. By the way, If you change out to a aftermarket Intake. You should really have a custom tune to take full benefit of it. To smooth out the A/F And make sure you do not run lean and cause detonation.
Changing the fluid will not cause the transmission to slip. A simple drain and fill will be fine. I’d go for it, Its alot better then not changing it. Honestly.
For Cobra’s, GT500’s and Lightnings I’d either go with VMP Tuning in Deland, Florida or Revan Racing (Jon Lund) Tune. Both have tuned near thousands of cars.
For Cobra’s, GT500’s and Lightnings I’d either go with VMP Tuning in Deland, Florida or Revan Racing (Jon Lund) Tune. Both have tuned near thousands of cars.
Yes, Aftermarket CAI (Cold Air intakes) and RAI’s (Ram Air Intakes) Do work, There has been Dyno proven results behind this, However, Is it worth it? Well that all depends on what you drive and what you want from your car. By the way, If you change out to a aftermarket Intake. You should really have a custom tune to take full benefit of it. To smooth out the A/F And make sure you do not run lean and cause detonation.
Want me to compile a list of Oils to absolutely stay away from? Because I will. Supertech is one of them, If Fram makes oil, That will be another. Quakerstate is also another.
More then likely it is a rebranded cheap oil to make some profits off of. Fram has good marketing, Not a good product. IMO.
$3.12 For Regular down in Florida.
I’d honestly stay away from Fram. If you want cheap but still decent synthetic oil. Go to Wal-Mart and buy the 5Qt Jugs. Its cheap, And much better then Fram. I’d also stay away from there oil filters as well. If you want cheap and good. Motorcraft or Purolator Pure One’s.
Just my .02
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