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He doesn’t impress me, seems he does more “go to Walmart and mask the issue” fixes. I work on cars professionally and I can say I enjoy Eric’s videos. It’s nice watching someone else struggle through some jobs (no offense eric!) But watching while not working on them in the comfort of my room is nice.
It’s probably 200 watt rms, usually peak power is twice the rms. Figure out if it’s dial voice coil or single, that will tell you what kind of amp you will want to buy, depending on if it’s 4ohm, 2 or 1 ohm. Old sub like that with damage at 200 watt, I’d try maybe 2 ohm but not 1. 1 ohm would drive it too hard. 6 or 8 gauge wire will be plenty for it. Depends on the amp too though. I recommend knuconceptz, it’s what I put in all the cars I setup.
I like the ernst rails and own a 13 inch “tekton” 3/8 driveone (made by ernst). I just wish they came in more sizes. I also have 4 gear wrench 11 inch 1/4″ drive ones but I’d bed the clips and a larger size for my wobble sockets. My tekton rail would then be useless until I buy a set of something else. Tool dilemmas
It looks like in AUD you’re at about 390ish USD for your scan tool budget. Since you’re here on the forums I’ll guess that you will be tackling other projects in the future as well. I bought this https://actron.com/content/elite-autoscanner-kit-enhanced-obd-i-and-obd-ii-scan-tool for about 230 USD, I’d hope it’s available where you are as well. Great scan tool. Likewise, I also own two others, one of which is called a bluedriver. You use it in conjuction with your cell phone and to be honest, that would more than meet your needs for 99 USD. Those are the two I would recommend depending on what you’d like to spend and availability. Can you test the 12v pin on the obdii port with a digital multimeter to see if it gets power at least before investing in a scan tool? If you don’t have one, I would recommend getting a decent auto ranging one and add it to you’re arsenal, they’re very valuable in diagnostic and if you go about fixing that harness if it needs it, will help you a ton.
I do the same as eric, but know your tools. I would be hesitant to continue letting it impact after you see it’s mostly stopped turning if you have a higher powered gun. They don’t need to be so tight that the bolt will snap with one more impact, but you obviously don’t want them too loose where vibrations will rattle them out. I’m sure you’ll be safe with whatever you have, but as i mentioned, just know the tools power limitations and proceed.
go with the 4. For what the hook does offer it’s not worth it’s size. The 4 is plenty capable and you’ll be more than happy with it. Do yourself a favor and buy the expanded connector set unless you bought the PP3 master kit which already has all the extra leads.
That’s a great tool. I personally have the Ingersoll Rand W7150 but have used my uncles milwaukee 1/2 and it holds it’s own. It is quite a bit heavier than the IR but it hasn’t struggled in removing anything. I own the Fuel sawzall, 1/4 impact (the newest one out), 3/8 impact as well as the drill/driver/ Their 12v lineup is just as awesome as the 18v.
I just bought a set of 10-22mm shallow swivel sockets from sunex and i love them. I’ve used snap on as well as the matco pinless and the sunex are just as good.
I’ve used a fluke 87V for most of my automotive needs as fluke is a great name in DMM. But i recently purchased a TPI model 194 along with a set of LoadPro leads and i love the setup. I use it in conjunction with my powerprobe III and between those two i can handle anything that’s thrown at me. I’ll link you to the two products i mentioned and you can read on from there. It’s just as accurate and robust as the flukes but for a bit cheaper. Infact, snap on rebrands the TPI meters themselves, so when you look at the TPI models and check out the snap on models they’re the same thing only snap on is red and TPI is yellowish green.
My pontiac came with dex, and they call it fish blood for a reason. I had one car come through my workplace at the time which was so thick with dexcool i could stick a screwdriver in and it wouldn’t fall over. What happens is when it’s introduced to air for a long period of time it chalks up and turns solid. As well, if it’s not changed for long periods of time this happens as well, or mixing with other coolant. I would advise you to flush out all the dex cool and run clean water in your car with a cleaner of some sort you can get at your FLAPS (favorite local autoparts store) for a few days and dump it back out. Run clean water in the system for another day or two (you don’t want pure water in there for longer than 3-4 days due to the water pump needing lubrication, etc prolonged use could wear it out) When the water runs out clean, you can introduce a “universal” coolant which is usually yellowish green. This is what i did with my car and any other cars i service. Dexcool in my opinion isn’t worth anything more than regular eth. gly. It was also known to eat LIM gaskets in the past but GM has remedied that.
Being a current grand am owner i can make a few suggestions. I as well own a 99 grand am. First off, have you checked for bearing play? They are notorious for failed hubs. Secondly, the ABS and trac off lights may come on which indicate of course, an issue in the ABS. What happens in the harness that runs down the subframe to the hub is that where the lower control arm flexes, it pulls on the old wires enough to cause a break and intermittent connection. You can buy new harnesses and solder/crimp them in (i prefer solder) as far up the old wires as you can. What i did before that was i released the clips that hold the wire loom and pulled some extra down to give more slack by the hub and by the control arm. That actually made the connection better which turned the lights off and told me that i needed to replace them. Dorman sells replacements. If the lights are off when you start the car at any point and you go jumble the wires around at either wheel with it running, you may in fact answer your own question and the ding noise is unmistakable even outside the car. ABS reader will help you out but odds are either either the wiring or the hub itself. I’ve refreshed the engine from the heads up as well as all the gaskets, put in a new transmission, both front wheel hubs, both front ABS sensors, new engine/transmission mounts, etc. They’re great cars but when they’re 17 years old things are bound to happen. Mine has 205K and still running strong. Good luck! If you have any more questions specifically about your car feel free to PM me. I don’t know if it’s against forum policy but G.A.O.C. is another place that is specifically made for GA owners and i’ve been a part of them for the better part of 6 years.