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80 hz is where you want it, that’s where vocals are cut out, which you don’t want to go to your sub. If you need anymore help, I check here a few times a day
[quote=”Legendlcox” post=175499]I say take that one out replace it with a rebuilt one, and then rebuild the old one yourself, and keep it on hand for when the replacement starts knocking. Then repeat the cycle.[/quote]
Tis the life of a jeep owner lolDoes your hu or amp have a low pass filter setting? As long as the stalked box has the proper amount of space for that sub, you’re good. What do you drive?
It looks like you need to remove the board from the case and solder the connections from the back. You should be able to achieve that with thin solder and a soldering GUN.
Can you try and repost the pictures? The links are broken. I may be able to point you in the right direction. Soldering would be best and it’s not too difficult.
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I love car audio and also wonder why more people don’t post, but i guess this forum is mainly helping people repair things. I personally have two systems, one is a full on Mmats pro audio amp and dual 12″ subs and the other is a hifonics dual 12″ subs with an audiopipe amp. The hifonics move a lot of air and hit hard because of how light they are, but nothing can beat a nice mmats system no matter how heavy they may be.
Could internally short, but as I said, I’ve never run into that. I ended up cutting off the cable lug that was on the starter/ alternator wires and installed a new one of the correct size. Wiring was clean where I cut it back to. Made a new battery to fuse box cable, 4ga. No drop in the fuse box wire now, .0023v drop in the alternator to battery write, I’m guessing from the off the shelf fusible link someone installed and taped over that I didn’t see until redoing wiring. I can live with that. Due to time constraints and lack of wire terminals I was unable to redo wiring fully. That will be another day. I improved the voltage at the battery and fuse box from 13.3 to 14.1, so I’m happy with a .8v increase for now. When I redo grounds and power, I expect that to go up.
I just reread my post. I meant alternator. I had starter on the mind from a previous job. Alternator
Once you get it all down its easy, I’ve been doing systems for people for a few years. Technology is always changing but the basics stay the same. Feel free to ask any other questions whether it be private message or here.
I don’t do it in lifts, I’ve caught plow frames though lol. That makes you see stars. Stay ducked down longer than you need to.
I had someone bring in a starter they had bought. Put it in, crapped out. Truck was towed back to the shop a week later and did it again. The second time, I ordered the part through our shop. Customer realized it’s easier to pay the mark up and have the protection than cheap out. It depends on the parts as to what you should buy and bring vs let the shop order and cover. I put 5 crank sensors in a stratus before we bought from the dealer, the customer was covered each time. Hoe expensive would that have been otherwise had we not waived the labor and we’re reimbursed by the parts store?