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If you dont like it do something else. If you have been a mechanic for 5-7 years, and you are a good mechanic, making less than $20/hr you need to find a new job. But thats just my opinion. I would never work at a dealership because of the warranty pay, plus I was turned off of them when I first applied to one. They called me for an interview and offered me $7/hr plus I had to write my own estimates and if I left something out it would come out of my pay. I told him “we just need to end this right here” and walked out.
could have swore I replied to this yesterday.
I think the cordless tools are awesome. I have the Milwaukee M18 1/2 impact. Its rated at 450 ftlbs and 640ftlbs breakaway torque. They are a little big compared to a pneumatic impact. I have used mine on axle nuts, pinion nuts, lugnuts, suspension.
I used the 3/8 SO impact for a week before I bought the milwaukee. Its rated at 150 ftlbs and 230ftlbs breakaway torque. If it had just a little more torque it would have been great. Which the new Milwaukee M18 3/8 and IR 20v 3/8 have 190-200 ftlbs, but neither lists the breakaway or nutbusting torque on their websites. I plan on getting the Milwaukee because I already have the charger and batteries, it is smaller, faster, and has 3 torque settings.
ETA-Also have the 1/4 M12 ratchet. Absolutely love this thing. It is a little bigger than a pneumatic ratchet, but it has plenty of power. There has only been a couple times it wouldnt fit somewhere, like on 1 timing cover bolt on V6 Accord. The one that is real close to the strut tower. Also the anvil isnt as strong as the one on my Mac air ratchet, so keep that in mind. I had used the Mac for several years and never broke the anvil, but broke tit on the Milwaukee inside of 4 months. Thinking about getting the 3/8 version to use on the tighter, larger bolts that I have been using the 1/4 on.
could have swore I replied to this yesterday.
I think the cordless tools are awesome. I have the Milwaukee M18 1/2 impact. Its rated at 450 ftlbs and 640ftlbs breakaway torque. They are a little big compared to a pneumatic impact. I have used mine on axle nuts, pinion nuts, lugnuts, suspension.
I used the 3/8 SO impact for a week before I bought the milwaukee. Its rated at 150 ftlbs and 230ftlbs breakaway torque. If it had just a little more torque it would have been great. Which the new Milwaukee M18 3/8 and IR 20v 3/8 have 190-200 ftlbs, but neither lists the breakaway or nutbusting torque on their websites. I plan on getting the Milwaukee because I already have the charger and batteries, it is smaller, faster, and has 3 torque settings.
ETA-Also have the 1/4 M12 ratchet. Absolutely love this thing. It is a little bigger than a pneumatic ratchet, but it has plenty of power. There has only been a couple times it wouldnt fit somewhere, like on 1 timing cover bolt on V6 Accord. The one that is real close to the strut tower. Also the anvil isnt as strong as the one on my Mac air ratchet, so keep that in mind. I had used the Mac for several years and never broke the anvil, but broke tit on the Milwaukee inside of 4 months. Thinking about getting the 3/8 version to use on the tighter, larger bolts that I have been using the 1/4 on.
I am sorry I ment to say remove the front ones, not the rear ones. If they are stopped up removing the front o2 sensors will give the exhaust somewhere to go.
I am sorry I ment to say remove the front ones, not the rear ones. If they are stopped up removing the front o2 sensors will give the exhaust somewhere to go.
You can remove the O2 sensors behind the cat converters and drive it that will tell you if the cats are stopped up. But if you hit on them and here rattle inside then they have broken apart. They are not supposed to rattle. If you do away with the converters, by the way this is illegal and you will fail emissions test, you will have a check engine light on unless you can get rear O2 sensor delete kits for your truck. all the rear O2 sensors are for is to tell the computer if the cats are working.
You can remove the O2 sensors behind the cat converters and drive it that will tell you if the cats are stopped up. But if you hit on them and here rattle inside then they have broken apart. They are not supposed to rattle. If you do away with the converters, by the way this is illegal and you will fail emissions test, you will have a check engine light on unless you can get rear O2 sensor delete kits for your truck. all the rear O2 sensors are for is to tell the computer if the cats are working.
What does the scan tool show for the O2 sensors? They are not going to stay steady they will fluctuate constantly. I have never tried to check an O2 sensor output with a volt meter, it may not be able to keep up with how fast the voltage changes.
What does the scan tool show for the O2 sensors? They are not going to stay steady they will fluctuate constantly. I have never tried to check an O2 sensor output with a volt meter, it may not be able to keep up with how fast the voltage changes.
Yes most true independent shops are atleast a little cluttered. But the chain stores like goodyear and firestone are generally very clean and organized.
Yes most true independent shops are atleast a little cluttered. But the chain stores like goodyear and firestone are generally very clean and organized.
I have never worked at a dealership and never plan to. So I dont know exactly how it works or what kind of work they really get other than I am sure they get a lot of warranty work that doesnt pay as good as customer pay. But outside of the dealers I know there is plenty of diagnostic work to be done. Yes a lot of times if you replace the part that the code is for it will fix it, but that is not always the case.
But if you do decide not to follow thru with your career choice you can save a lot of money over the years with the knowledge and tools that you now have.
I have never worked at a dealership and never plan to. So I dont know exactly how it works or what kind of work they really get other than I am sure they get a lot of warranty work that doesnt pay as good as customer pay. But outside of the dealers I know there is plenty of diagnostic work to be done. Yes a lot of times if you replace the part that the code is for it will fix it, but that is not always the case.
But if you do decide not to follow thru with your career choice you can save a lot of money over the years with the knowledge and tools that you now have.