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We have a Snapon Verus and Autel MaxiDAS at work and they are both pretty slow. Aggravates the heck out of me. If these tools need an internet connection to communicate with a vehicle that is just stupid. I will ask the SnapOn dealer about this when he comes on Friday.
We have a Snapon Verus and Autel MaxiDAS at work and they are both pretty slow. Aggravates the heck out of me. If these tools need an internet connection to communicate with a vehicle that is just stupid. I will ask the SnapOn dealer about this when he comes on Friday.
We have a guy thats been here for 6-8 months. He has a fair amount of tools, but he is always barrowing tools. Not a day goes by that he isn’t barrowing something from somebody. Now I dont mind lending a tool to a guy, but like has been said already, if you barrow a couple times its time to buy your own. I told him the other day that he needed to buy some damn tools. He said, “No I have enough, besides I can just barrow it from yall if I dont have it.” Pissed my off big time. I dont remember what I said exactly but pretty much that I had to work to buy tools for me, not for him. He hasnt asked to barrow anything since.
We have a guy thats been here for 6-8 months. He has a fair amount of tools, but he is always barrowing tools. Not a day goes by that he isn’t barrowing something from somebody. Now I dont mind lending a tool to a guy, but like has been said already, if you barrow a couple times its time to buy your own. I told him the other day that he needed to buy some damn tools. He said, “No I have enough, besides I can just barrow it from yall if I dont have it.” Pissed my off big time. I dont remember what I said exactly but pretty much that I had to work to buy tools for me, not for him. He hasnt asked to barrow anything since.
Glad you found something you like. But curious as to why you went with the DeWalt over the IR or Milwaukee? Only reason I ask is the IR and Milwaukee are rated at 190-200ftlbs.
Glad you found something you like. But curious as to why you went with the DeWalt over the IR or Milwaukee? Only reason I ask is the IR and Milwaukee are rated at 190-200ftlbs.
I went with Milwaukee. I have the M12 1/4 and 3/8 ratchets and the m12 stick light. Also have the M18 1/2 impact and the M18 Fuel 3/8 compact impact. Very happy with all of them. The 3/8 impact will remove lugnuts if they werent torqued much past 150ftlbs. Most shops around here over torque lugnuts, so a lot of times I have to use the M18 1/2. But if the last shop to work on it didnt over torque the lugs the M18 Fuel 3/8 will take them off. Also the fuel impacts have adjustable power settings. The 3/8 version, that I have, the lowest setting I think is around 17 ftlbs, middle is 75ftlbs, and high is 200ftlbs. I plan on getting the M18 Fuel 1/2 fullsize impact at some point. The only real complaints I have is the rubber on the grips of the ratchets have peeled off and the 3/8 ratchet could use a little more power. And the anvils on the ratchets aren’t as strong as a good air ratchet. But I am very happy with all of them and I hardly touch an air hose anymore.
I went with Milwaukee. I have the M12 1/4 and 3/8 ratchets and the m12 stick light. Also have the M18 1/2 impact and the M18 Fuel 3/8 compact impact. Very happy with all of them. The 3/8 impact will remove lugnuts if they werent torqued much past 150ftlbs. Most shops around here over torque lugnuts, so a lot of times I have to use the M18 1/2. But if the last shop to work on it didnt over torque the lugs the M18 Fuel 3/8 will take them off. Also the fuel impacts have adjustable power settings. The 3/8 version, that I have, the lowest setting I think is around 17 ftlbs, middle is 75ftlbs, and high is 200ftlbs. I plan on getting the M18 Fuel 1/2 fullsize impact at some point. The only real complaints I have is the rubber on the grips of the ratchets have peeled off and the 3/8 ratchet could use a little more power. And the anvils on the ratchets aren’t as strong as a good air ratchet. But I am very happy with all of them and I hardly touch an air hose anymore.
We are all human and we all make mistakes. With that said whoever owns the shop opened it to make money, but at the same time there are risks as a shop owner. The shop owner is making money on all the parts they sell and on the labor of all the techs in the shop. While the tech they have, that may have made a mistake, only makes money on the work he does. Part of the risks of owning a shop is your employees might make a mistake and might cost you a little money. If you dont want that risk then sell your business and go to work for someone else. Now if a tech screws something up you dont pay him to fix it, of course if the tech is hourly this may cause a problem. If the tech cant fix it and someone else has to then I reckon he would have to pay the other techs labor, but not the full shop labor rate, IMO. Of course if the mistakes happen often or is a huge screwup then you probly need to replace him.
As far as plastic parts breaking on an old car, no way am I paying for that. And old rusty bolts breaking, not paying for that. I am going to get paid to drill it out or whatever needs to happen to make the repair. It’s not my car and not my problem. And if I did the job and the service writer screws up and gives it away, thats fine but I better get my money.
We are all human and we all make mistakes. With that said whoever owns the shop opened it to make money, but at the same time there are risks as a shop owner. The shop owner is making money on all the parts they sell and on the labor of all the techs in the shop. While the tech they have, that may have made a mistake, only makes money on the work he does. Part of the risks of owning a shop is your employees might make a mistake and might cost you a little money. If you dont want that risk then sell your business and go to work for someone else. Now if a tech screws something up you dont pay him to fix it, of course if the tech is hourly this may cause a problem. If the tech cant fix it and someone else has to then I reckon he would have to pay the other techs labor, but not the full shop labor rate, IMO. Of course if the mistakes happen often or is a huge screwup then you probly need to replace him.
As far as plastic parts breaking on an old car, no way am I paying for that. And old rusty bolts breaking, not paying for that. I am going to get paid to drill it out or whatever needs to happen to make the repair. It’s not my car and not my problem. And if I did the job and the service writer screws up and gives it away, thats fine but I better get my money.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=79936]I didn’t know about the K member. I’ll have to do some more research on that. Honestly, I’m not looking to build the engine, I’d rather go with a crate and not have to worry about it. It’s also often cheaper to go that rout. Who knows, perhaps Jegs or someone like that might come along and want to sponsor the build.[/quote]
K-member is easy to swap, seeing as how you’ll have the motor out. Once the motor is out, remove the coil springs then its just 8 bolts and the k-member is out.[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=79936]I didn’t know about the K member. I’ll have to do some more research on that. Honestly, I’m not looking to build the engine, I’d rather go with a crate and not have to worry about it. It’s also often cheaper to go that rout. Who knows, perhaps Jegs or someone like that might come along and want to sponsor the build.[/quote]
K-member is easy to swap, seeing as how you’ll have the motor out. Once the motor is out, remove the coil springs then its just 8 bolts and the k-member is out.I have to be honest, when I first saw the car I thought “WTH, why did you buy that piece of junk?” lol. But you can do a lot with that car. V8, AOD, IRS? It will be a pretty good car when your done. You will have to change the k-member for whatever motor swap you do. 3.3 k-member is different than 2.3, 3.8, and 5.0 k-member. It might be easier to get parts donated than a whole crate engine, then just build the motor yourself.
I have to be honest, when I first saw the car I thought “WTH, why did you buy that piece of junk?” lol. But you can do a lot with that car. V8, AOD, IRS? It will be a pretty good car when your done. You will have to change the k-member for whatever motor swap you do. 3.3 k-member is different than 2.3, 3.8, and 5.0 k-member. It might be easier to get parts donated than a whole crate engine, then just build the motor yourself.