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Normally Id agree with you, but I bought this car maybe 3 months ago and the dealer had no service history. It has had replacement coils at some point because two them have different style codes, one of them is the one that failed. I dont know how to decipher them so I couldnt say what brand any of them are.
A quick update. I got the OBD Fusion app since Torque Pro isnt a available of iphones. But ever since I started monitoring the car the problem has gone away. All the monitors that I’ve been able to use look normal so hopefully its fine now for whatever reason.
I forgot to clarify in the original post that it sputters like its about to stall out, then just keeps going like normal, my bad. I don’t know if that helps anything. I did say in the first post that it had around 143K miles, but if you want an exact number I just looked and 143,206 miles.
I’ll look into those live diagnostic reads but my initial quick search showed they were all over $100, which more than i can afford right now. Do you know of any good one that are cheaper? I know these things are you get what you pay for, and if this problem keeps getting worse I’ll just bit that bullet but I’d prefer to avoid it if possible.
I second taking it to a parts store. They should do it for free. Or if you have a mutimeter you can do some basic checks with that. The battery should read 12.4 volts at minimum when the car is off and about 14 volts with the engine running. The voltage shouldn’t change very much with any accessories on and if it does then I’d look at the alternator. Just don’t test the current draw with the mutimeter or you’ll blow it up.
How rapidly are you talking? Who told that it couldn’t be a gasket because a gasket can very easily hemorrhage oil if it’s had a catastrophic failure. How was the car being driven before the problem happened? Did anything unusual happen like you hit a rock or curb or something? And did the car have any work do on it recently?
July 6, 2017 at 6:04 am in reply to: is it best to take the check from the insurance or get the car repaired? #881900Are you asking whether or not you can keep the difference if you get the check and take it somewhere that will do it for less than $1500? If you are then that’s something that you’ll have to ask your insurance company. If they will let you do that and you can find a good place to do the work then by all means do it. Also you’d need to ask them if you can still get your rental car if you don’t take your car to one of their shops. I can’t imagine that you wouldn’t but every company and every policy is different.
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Hey eric. I missed the last show but I wanted to say thank you for your advice about the brake fluid boiling in my accent. I took care of it and the brakes have been working fine since. In fact thanks to your help the car would be in just about perfect order if I hadn’t snapped off a wheel stud. But you know what happens. Anyway my AMA question for you is what if any kind of music do you listen to when not on camera to help motivate you to work especially on the stubborn cars that seem to not want to be fixed?
Hey Eric hope you’re doing well. I have another question about my 2005 Hyundai Accent. When driving the car hard or for a long period of time especially with frequent stops the brake pedal slowly becomes more more soft until I have to put the pedal all the way to the floor for the brakes to feel like they’re working. Parking the car and letting it sit for a few hours will make the pedal go back to normal. The fluid is full and the pedal does not sink to the floor while sitting at a stop. I don’t think it’s problem with the booster since I’ve been told that would make the pedal harder not softer and don’t think there’s air in the lines since i would think that also would make the pedal harder as the air became more and more compressed. But I could be completely wrong since I’m terrible with brakes I just know I like it when they work properly. I also have three codes that I doubt are related but I’ll list them for good measure p0650 p0128 and another p0442. Thanks and stay dirty.
Thanks everyone for your replies, it means a lot. Yes I am most defiantly a car person.. I’ve been going to car shows and races before I could even walk. No one else that I interact with regularly is a car person and would just tell to take the money without a second thought, which is why I feel more comfortable asking for advice here than asking them.
It’s a four door wagon. I might do some looking up on the VIN, my dad bought it used but he said that is was pretty much a base model. AC and a two speed automatic were the only things he could think of option wise that it had.
The offer was made by a friend of his so keeping track of the car if he sells it shouldn’t be too hard. Also I’m 90% certain that the offer has no time limit so there’s not much pressure to make a decision thankfully. I’m leaning more heavily towards keeping it especially since I remembered that many years ago my dad also had three Dodge Chargers that didn’t run but between the them had all the parts needed to build one that he sold and then later regretted.
I’ll try to dig up some recent pictures of it if I can but in the meantime I found a forum post about it I made a few years ago, on a Mustang forum ironically enough. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/general-discussion-non-vintage-mustang/646004-not-ford-but.html
I checked out Roadkill, I love it. Watched the Duster big block swap episode.
Not to rain on your parade or anything, but that’s a bad idea. Assuming it’s even doable you’re looking at a TON more work than you anticipate. Just about everything on modern vehicles is computer controlled, they aren’t meant to able to be heavily modified like you want. Removing the computer would more than likely mean that you’d need to rewire the trucks entire electrical system. That also means that you’d have to change out anything that in turn relies on the computer, basically anything with sensors including safety equipment like airbags. You could very well end up replacing almost everything in that truck. Also since you plan on putting in a carbureted engine another thing to consider is that it may no longer be able to pass emissions tests. That along with all the electrical work you have to do may leave your truck no longer street legal.
Not to discourage you from modifying it, if you’re able to successfully do this it would be beyond awesome. I’m just trying to give you some perspective on the worst case scenario. Trust me I know how you feel, as I am also a broke collage student with minimal tools and three project cars that got dumped in my lap.
An automatic transmission cannot run without the torque converter as that is what creates the hydraulic pressure the transmission uses to operate. Now were you somehow able to rig up something to create the pressure without the torque converter, then maybe it would work as the second function it performs is allowing the engine to spin when the wheels are not; electric motors don’t do that. That being said you would be best off just leaving the tranny as is and just swapping the motor.
Hey Eric, a few quick questions for you. 1 I’m shopping around for an engine support bar, I remember you mentioning one in a video but I don’t remember which one it was. Do you have any recommendations for what I should look for? 2 How can you check to see if a timing belt needs to be replaced? The car in question is past when the manual says it needs to have the belt replaced but it looks new and the owners, my in laws, don’t have clue if it’s ever been replaced.
AMAs Have you ever played World of Warcraft and what is you favorite car (other than Oliver)?
Hey Eric, Wes G from google. First off thanks for the help in my previous questions with my 05 Accent, it’s helped a lot. Also my wife thought I was insane when I set up that DIY smoke machine, it was great. I recently got four new tires on it and after I noticed an intermittent squealing coming from the driver’s side. I haven’t been able to pinpoint if it’s coming from the front or rear wheel and the sound doesn’t change with wheel speed or whether or not I’m braking. I haven’t had time to do a thorough check but I did a quick visual inspection and didn’t see anything obvious. Any ideas? Thanks. Also what’s your favorite pizza topping?
I love carburetors. I don’t understand why people don’t like them either. Though I must say I have never seen a turbo on a carbureted engine. They definitely belong on a supercharged engine, unless you’re trying to keep a low profile under the hood, but in that case why even supercharge it?
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