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Congrats! Glad you got relief-don’t be surprised if the noise comes back….. age and time, age and time…..
Congrats! Glad you got relief-don’t be surprised if the noise comes back….. age and time, age and time…..
I’d start with the actuator too. Look for a break in any of the wiring passing through the steering column as well. I assume there is now no crank no matter what position the steering wheel is in.
I’d start with the actuator too. Look for a break in any of the wiring passing through the steering column as well. I assume there is now no crank no matter what position the steering wheel is in.
Don’t know about the “rattle” in the bottom end of the engine. Is it a “tinny” noise or does it sound like “rocks in a tin can”? Th eserpentine belt noise you are hearing could be an alternator bearing or one of the idlers/tensioners for the serpentine belt. the way i check is to release tension on the serp belt tugging and spinning all the things it drives looking for noise and play. Since it changes when you cycle the A/C I do suspect an idler/tensioner ready to fail.
Don’t know about the “rattle” in the bottom end of the engine. Is it a “tinny” noise or does it sound like “rocks in a tin can”? Th eserpentine belt noise you are hearing could be an alternator bearing or one of the idlers/tensioners for the serpentine belt. the way i check is to release tension on the serp belt tugging and spinning all the things it drives looking for noise and play. Since it changes when you cycle the A/C I do suspect an idler/tensioner ready to fail.
A guess is that it may be coming from the spring eye bushings located at each end of the leaf spring. To isolate the noise you might try spraying a good amount of either silicone spray or WD-40 in the bushing ares and see if it changes anything. Tips for changing the springs are to have heavy duty breaker bars to remove the nuts from the saddle U bolts. Soaking them down with rust penetrant well in advance of the job can help this, also do this at the ends of the springs where they mount to the vehicle. On my end there is a truck spring shop that also does light duty work and they have always been worth the money they charge for the labor-reasonable and quick. Maybe you have such a business in your area. Still want to DIY then have access to a 3/4″ drive impact and maybe a torch.
A guess is that it may be coming from the spring eye bushings located at each end of the leaf spring. To isolate the noise you might try spraying a good amount of either silicone spray or WD-40 in the bushing ares and see if it changes anything. Tips for changing the springs are to have heavy duty breaker bars to remove the nuts from the saddle U bolts. Soaking them down with rust penetrant well in advance of the job can help this, also do this at the ends of the springs where they mount to the vehicle. On my end there is a truck spring shop that also does light duty work and they have always been worth the money they charge for the labor-reasonable and quick. Maybe you have such a business in your area. Still want to DIY then have access to a 3/4″ drive impact and maybe a torch.
Congrats! Sounds like you are making progress. Just a personal note-when I bleed an entire system (all 4-wheels) I always start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and then the next furthest etc. At this point before you bleed again it would be good to open the fittings at the master cylinder one at a time and allow it to gravity bleed-don’t pump! Again just a few ounces here at each fitting. Be sure to put rags etc. below the area to catch all the brake fluid-it does not play well with many things. Let us know how it all turns out.
BTW-you know your car best but perhaps the difference you are feeling in the brake pedal now is because the rear caliper pistons are now moving freely. I’m not there driving it so it is just a thought.
Congrats! Sounds like you are making progress. Just a personal note-when I bleed an entire system (all 4-wheels) I always start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and then the next furthest etc. At this point before you bleed again it would be good to open the fittings at the master cylinder one at a time and allow it to gravity bleed-don’t pump! Again just a few ounces here at each fitting. Be sure to put rags etc. below the area to catch all the brake fluid-it does not play well with many things. Let us know how it all turns out.
BTW-you know your car best but perhaps the difference you are feeling in the brake pedal now is because the rear caliper pistons are now moving freely. I’m not there driving it so it is just a thought.
In your step no. 11 you said you pumped the brake pedal and dislodged the piston. I assume the pads were not in place in the caliper and that the caliper was not bolted to the mount. You may have allowed some air to enter the system doing that and it would have occurred when you released the brake pedal after the piston dislodged. I know-there should have been a fluid loss for air to get in. But I would gravity bleed the rear brakes starting with the passenger side rear first, then the driver side rear and see if that helps-it won’t hurt. Observe the bleed, you might just see some air bubbles. Bleed about 2-3 ounces from each rear wheel and keep the master cylinder full during the process. You should not have any air in the front brake lines but if the pressure problem does not go away after bleeding the rears then do the fronts too as a try.
In your step no. 11 you said you pumped the brake pedal and dislodged the piston. I assume the pads were not in place in the caliper and that the caliper was not bolted to the mount. You may have allowed some air to enter the system doing that and it would have occurred when you released the brake pedal after the piston dislodged. I know-there should have been a fluid loss for air to get in. But I would gravity bleed the rear brakes starting with the passenger side rear first, then the driver side rear and see if that helps-it won’t hurt. Observe the bleed, you might just see some air bubbles. Bleed about 2-3 ounces from each rear wheel and keep the master cylinder full during the process. You should not have any air in the front brake lines but if the pressure problem does not go away after bleeding the rears then do the fronts too as a try.