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OK, next idea is to find the line that goes from the canister to the engine. Disconnect that line from the engine and plug that port, I’d leave the canister hose open to atmosphere but direct it away from the engine. Observe what happens over several days. You may get a check engine light as a result of this. If the problem goes away then there is something amiss with the purge control system for the evaporative emissions. Try to find some factory service manual diagrams/process of operation information for it.
OK, next idea is to find the line that goes from the canister to the engine. Disconnect that line from the engine and plug that port, I’d leave the canister hose open to atmosphere but direct it away from the engine. Observe what happens over several days. You may get a check engine light as a result of this. If the problem goes away then there is something amiss with the purge control system for the evaporative emissions. Try to find some factory service manual diagrams/process of operation information for it.
I understand about the tread pattern. I’m going by your statement that the pulling followed the rotation of the tires from one side of the car to the other. I don’t feel the tread pattern is the cause here. Leaving now-will be back on Tuesday.
I understand about the tread pattern. I’m going by your statement that the pulling followed the rotation of the tires from one side of the car to the other. I don’t feel the tread pattern is the cause here. Leaving now-will be back on Tuesday.
OK, so if the tire dealer does not think the tires are the problem what is his suggestion/diagnosis? I’d press them about this and if they are reluctant ask how you go higher in their organization to voice your satisfaction. If you purchased at a chain such as Firestone, Goodyear etc. then your recourse is to contact their corporate customer service division. Did you buy a hazard warranty with the tires, if so there may be some recourse there.
This is always a challenging situation to face with tires. When the pulling follows the tire switching as in your case there is a tire problem! At this point I’d try to isolate what tire it is. Start by the the driver side tires front to rear. If the pulling remains the same then 2-tires might be bad.
When all else fails you might call one of your local TV stations and ask if they have a consumer help program. some stations do for situations like yours.
OK, so if the tire dealer does not think the tires are the problem what is his suggestion/diagnosis? I’d press them about this and if they are reluctant ask how you go higher in their organization to voice your satisfaction. If you purchased at a chain such as Firestone, Goodyear etc. then your recourse is to contact their corporate customer service division. Did you buy a hazard warranty with the tires, if so there may be some recourse there.
This is always a challenging situation to face with tires. When the pulling follows the tire switching as in your case there is a tire problem! At this point I’d try to isolate what tire it is. Start by the the driver side tires front to rear. If the pulling remains the same then 2-tires might be bad.
When all else fails you might call one of your local TV stations and ask if they have a consumer help program. some stations do for situations like yours.
A couple of thoughts for ya. Possibly you installed one of the pads inside out, I’ve done lots of brake jobs too but I’m guilty on this one-have done it! Are the pads too loose where they drop into the mounts/holders? On this design if they can walk around too much they will make a lot of odd noise. The popping noise you describe really sounds to me like pad movement or a loose caliper-something is moving somewhere that should be secure. Be patient and just go back and look over the whole job in detail. If it is that noisy it should be fairly easy to diagnose. Let us know how you make out!
A couple of thoughts for ya. Possibly you installed one of the pads inside out, I’ve done lots of brake jobs too but I’m guilty on this one-have done it! Are the pads too loose where they drop into the mounts/holders? On this design if they can walk around too much they will make a lot of odd noise. The popping noise you describe really sounds to me like pad movement or a loose caliper-something is moving somewhere that should be secure. Be patient and just go back and look over the whole job in detail. If it is that noisy it should be fairly easy to diagnose. Let us know how you make out!
Your welcome-congrats! 🙂
Your welcome-congrats! 🙂
Ya know-the more I think about it-the more I’m leaning towards it being an evaporative emission system problem. I don’t know if your car even has one but if it does it could cause your condition. Does it matter how much fuel is in the tank when this occurs? Have you gone back over what you might have disturbed during the head gasket replacement? :stick:
Ya know-the more I think about it-the more I’m leaning towards it being an evaporative emission system problem. I don’t know if your car even has one but if it does it could cause your condition. Does it matter how much fuel is in the tank when this occurs? Have you gone back over what you might have disturbed during the head gasket replacement? :stick:
Did you have this problem BEFORE you changed the head gasket?
Maybe retrace your steps to see something left disturbed, disconnected etc.With all the info you’ve given I’ll take a stab and say have you tested the crank sensor? I found them to fail on many brands with heat related symptoms. Just a thought.
Did you have this problem BEFORE you changed the head gasket?
Maybe retrace your steps to see something left disturbed, disconnected etc.With all the info you’ve given I’ll take a stab and say have you tested the crank sensor? I found them to fail on many brands with heat related symptoms. Just a thought.
Now that you have the rotor off can you try to drive it through from the side you were drilling at? Had a similar problem on a Toyota Tacoma front wheel-pulled the rotor and drove it through.
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