Menu

Walter Cheryba

Forum Replies Created

Viewing 11 replies - 346 through 356 (of 356 total)
  • Author
    Replies
  • in reply to: 2001 KIA Sportage blower motor. #522564
    Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
    Participant

      To all, there was no failure of the resistor, there was voltage at the blower connector. Obtained a replacement blower with cage and procedure was TOO easy. 3-fasteners, 1-electrical connector, a little bit of finesse to clear some other objects, reverse procedure to install and vioala! One working blower motor! Thanks for the questions, they help me do the thorough diagnosis and have a successful repair. This case is closed!

      in reply to: My Coolant Problem Saga Continues (Video Link) #519614
      Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
      Participant

        My humble opinion is that it is very possibly a bad thermostat. The least expensive test you could do yourself is to remove the thermostat do some test driving and observation. I’ve seen the hose pulsation your video showed in the past. Causes for that I’ve encountered range from stuck thermostat, to air in the system, to cracked cylinder heads so the condition is not definitive.

        When you take the thermostat out you could put it into a pot of water on a stove, heat it up and using a temperature gauge see when it begins to open and also observe if it opens all the way.

        I also had a rash of thermostats that were young in age just break apart for no reason within a rear after replacement, not China stats either, Gates brand, Stant brand were 2-I had trouble with. I went back to the dealer for parts in these cases and the problem did not repeat. Good luck and let us know how you make out!

        in reply to: My Coolant Problem Saga Continues (Video Link) #522240
        Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
        Participant

          My humble opinion is that it is very possibly a bad thermostat. The least expensive test you could do yourself is to remove the thermostat do some test driving and observation. I’ve seen the hose pulsation your video showed in the past. Causes for that I’ve encountered range from stuck thermostat, to air in the system, to cracked cylinder heads so the condition is not definitive.

          When you take the thermostat out you could put it into a pot of water on a stove, heat it up and using a temperature gauge see when it begins to open and also observe if it opens all the way.

          I also had a rash of thermostats that were young in age just break apart for no reason within a rear after replacement, not China stats either, Gates brand, Stant brand were 2-I had trouble with. I went back to the dealer for parts in these cases and the problem did not repeat. Good luck and let us know how you make out!

          in reply to: 2001 KIA Sportage blower motor. #519225
          Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
          Participant

            Thanks for the reference John, sadly it was not helpful for my application. I’ve read a procedure on e-toolbox pro that discusses the need to drain and refill the A/C system to do the replacement. I don’t think that is the case here with this vehicle. I can see the blower motor if i look up from the passenger side of the cabin floor. I see 3-screws and 1-electrical connector. When the new motor arrives I’m just going to go for it as it appears. I’ll touch back when the job is complete or a complete disaster!

            in reply to: 2001 KIA Sportage blower motor. #521772
            Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
            Participant

              Thanks for the reference John, sadly it was not helpful for my application. I’ve read a procedure on e-toolbox pro that discusses the need to drain and refill the A/C system to do the replacement. I don’t think that is the case here with this vehicle. I can see the blower motor if i look up from the passenger side of the cabin floor. I see 3-screws and 1-electrical connector. When the new motor arrives I’m just going to go for it as it appears. I’ll touch back when the job is complete or a complete disaster!

              in reply to: Drum brake lubricants: Petroleum Distillates? #521429
              Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
              Participant

                Hello, I’ve done hundreds of drum brake jobs using both the copper and the silver anti-sieze products from various manufacturers and I’ve not ever seen a rubber component failure as a result. The silver product has a higer temperature rating than the copper.

                in reply to: Drum brake lubricants: Petroleum Distillates? #518883
                Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
                Participant

                  Hello, I’ve done hundreds of drum brake jobs using both the copper and the silver anti-sieze products from various manufacturers and I’ve not ever seen a rubber component failure as a result. The silver product has a higer temperature rating than the copper.

                  in reply to: 2007 Chrysler Town and Country #514358
                  Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
                  Participant

                    Thank you college man! It’s easier than I thought, can’t wait to do it!

                    in reply to: 2007 Chrysler Town and Country #516585
                    Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
                    Participant

                      Thank you college man! It’s easier than I thought, can’t wait to do it!

                      in reply to: brake lines #514350
                      Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
                      Participant

                        Hi chevyaz! My experience is this, with the metal portions of the brake lines visual appearance tells all. Here on the East Coast we use brine solution on the roads as a pre-treatment for salting for snowstorms. This has resulted in higher than usual metal line corrosion and failure. I doubt you have much of that there in Arizona. The rubber lines are a different story. you will have one rubber line at each front wheel and one at the rear of the vehicle where the line tees at the rear axle to allow for the movement of the rear axle assembly. This again is a visual check, you are looking for cracking, dry rot or hardened rubber. Given the summer heat of Arizona I’d be inspecting the rubber lines regularly. Hope this helps!

                        in reply to: brake lines #516577
                        Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
                        Participant

                          Hi chevyaz! My experience is this, with the metal portions of the brake lines visual appearance tells all. Here on the East Coast we use brine solution on the roads as a pre-treatment for salting for snowstorms. This has resulted in higher than usual metal line corrosion and failure. I doubt you have much of that there in Arizona. The rubber lines are a different story. you will have one rubber line at each front wheel and one at the rear of the vehicle where the line tees at the rear axle to allow for the movement of the rear axle assembly. This again is a visual check, you are looking for cracking, dry rot or hardened rubber. Given the summer heat of Arizona I’d be inspecting the rubber lines regularly. Hope this helps!

                        Viewing 11 replies - 346 through 356 (of 356 total)
                        Loading…
                        toto slot toto togel situs toto situs toto https://www.kimiafarmabali.com/
                        situs toto situs toto