Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorReplies
-
To all, there was no failure of the resistor, there was voltage at the blower connector. Obtained a replacement blower with cage and procedure was TOO easy. 3-fasteners, 1-electrical connector, a little bit of finesse to clear some other objects, reverse procedure to install and vioala! One working blower motor! Thanks for the questions, they help me do the thorough diagnosis and have a successful repair. This case is closed!
My humble opinion is that it is very possibly a bad thermostat. The least expensive test you could do yourself is to remove the thermostat do some test driving and observation. I’ve seen the hose pulsation your video showed in the past. Causes for that I’ve encountered range from stuck thermostat, to air in the system, to cracked cylinder heads so the condition is not definitive.
When you take the thermostat out you could put it into a pot of water on a stove, heat it up and using a temperature gauge see when it begins to open and also observe if it opens all the way.
I also had a rash of thermostats that were young in age just break apart for no reason within a rear after replacement, not China stats either, Gates brand, Stant brand were 2-I had trouble with. I went back to the dealer for parts in these cases and the problem did not repeat. Good luck and let us know how you make out!
My humble opinion is that it is very possibly a bad thermostat. The least expensive test you could do yourself is to remove the thermostat do some test driving and observation. I’ve seen the hose pulsation your video showed in the past. Causes for that I’ve encountered range from stuck thermostat, to air in the system, to cracked cylinder heads so the condition is not definitive.
When you take the thermostat out you could put it into a pot of water on a stove, heat it up and using a temperature gauge see when it begins to open and also observe if it opens all the way.
I also had a rash of thermostats that were young in age just break apart for no reason within a rear after replacement, not China stats either, Gates brand, Stant brand were 2-I had trouble with. I went back to the dealer for parts in these cases and the problem did not repeat. Good luck and let us know how you make out!
Thanks for the reference John, sadly it was not helpful for my application. I’ve read a procedure on e-toolbox pro that discusses the need to drain and refill the A/C system to do the replacement. I don’t think that is the case here with this vehicle. I can see the blower motor if i look up from the passenger side of the cabin floor. I see 3-screws and 1-electrical connector. When the new motor arrives I’m just going to go for it as it appears. I’ll touch back when the job is complete or a complete disaster!
Thanks for the reference John, sadly it was not helpful for my application. I’ve read a procedure on e-toolbox pro that discusses the need to drain and refill the A/C system to do the replacement. I don’t think that is the case here with this vehicle. I can see the blower motor if i look up from the passenger side of the cabin floor. I see 3-screws and 1-electrical connector. When the new motor arrives I’m just going to go for it as it appears. I’ll touch back when the job is complete or a complete disaster!
Hello, I’ve done hundreds of drum brake jobs using both the copper and the silver anti-sieze products from various manufacturers and I’ve not ever seen a rubber component failure as a result. The silver product has a higer temperature rating than the copper.
Hello, I’ve done hundreds of drum brake jobs using both the copper and the silver anti-sieze products from various manufacturers and I’ve not ever seen a rubber component failure as a result. The silver product has a higer temperature rating than the copper.
Thank you college man! It’s easier than I thought, can’t wait to do it!
Thank you college man! It’s easier than I thought, can’t wait to do it!
Hi chevyaz! My experience is this, with the metal portions of the brake lines visual appearance tells all. Here on the East Coast we use brine solution on the roads as a pre-treatment for salting for snowstorms. This has resulted in higher than usual metal line corrosion and failure. I doubt you have much of that there in Arizona. The rubber lines are a different story. you will have one rubber line at each front wheel and one at the rear of the vehicle where the line tees at the rear axle to allow for the movement of the rear axle assembly. This again is a visual check, you are looking for cracking, dry rot or hardened rubber. Given the summer heat of Arizona I’d be inspecting the rubber lines regularly. Hope this helps!
Hi chevyaz! My experience is this, with the metal portions of the brake lines visual appearance tells all. Here on the East Coast we use brine solution on the roads as a pre-treatment for salting for snowstorms. This has resulted in higher than usual metal line corrosion and failure. I doubt you have much of that there in Arizona. The rubber lines are a different story. you will have one rubber line at each front wheel and one at the rear of the vehicle where the line tees at the rear axle to allow for the movement of the rear axle assembly. This again is a visual check, you are looking for cracking, dry rot or hardened rubber. Given the summer heat of Arizona I’d be inspecting the rubber lines regularly. Hope this helps!
-
AuthorReplies