Forum Replies Created
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If you want to keep the vehicle and you can do the work yourself-pull both cylinder heads, inspect the tops of the pistons for abnormalities and replace the heads with rebuilt ones-internet searching can be helpful for cost savings. Replacing the lifters and pushrods is a good idea since it’s apart. If you can’t do the work yourself or afford to have it done you might contact a local vo-tech or large high school with an auto repair course/shop. Sometimes they’ll take on a project like yours for training purposes. Usually you supply the parts and assume all the risk! Make sure you ask how long they’ll have the car-it can get long in time.
If this route is not for you then go the suggested cheap route of swapping out plugs every so often and bumping up the fuel grade a notch. You also might want to run a few bottles of Chevron Techron through the fuel system, that product has helped improve a variety of unfavorable operating conditions for me over time.
If you want to keep the vehicle and you can do the work yourself-pull both cylinder heads, inspect the tops of the pistons for abnormalities and replace the heads with rebuilt ones-internet searching can be helpful for cost savings. Replacing the lifters and pushrods is a good idea since it’s apart. If you can’t do the work yourself or afford to have it done you might contact a local vo-tech or large high school with an auto repair course/shop. Sometimes they’ll take on a project like yours for training purposes. Usually you supply the parts and assume all the risk! Make sure you ask how long they’ll have the car-it can get long in time.
If this route is not for you then go the suggested cheap route of swapping out plugs every so often and bumping up the fuel grade a notch. You also might want to run a few bottles of Chevron Techron through the fuel system, that product has helped improve a variety of unfavorable operating conditions for me over time.
You are most welcome, I’m really glad this site exists, Eric has done a good thing for people like myself. It is really interesting how much inspiration I receive just by participating at the level that I”m able to. It’s nice that my small experiences can be of value to someone else.
You are most welcome, I’m really glad this site exists, Eric has done a good thing for people like myself. It is really interesting how much inspiration I receive just by participating at the level that I”m able to. It’s nice that my small experiences can be of value to someone else.
Well it is the common sense logic I would follow myself. However! We are talking about a GM product AND a computer, sooooooo in my world I’d not be surprised at anything. I wish I could help you with the sending units location and difficulty of replacement. I’m reasonably certain it is located very close to the oil filter and may not require a special socket as the “light only” sensors do. does your car have an oil pressure light as well as a gauge? I’ve seen some Olds models that had the redundant system. Wishing you success!
Well it is the common sense logic I would follow myself. However! We are talking about a GM product AND a computer, sooooooo in my world I’d not be surprised at anything. I wish I could help you with the sending units location and difficulty of replacement. I’m reasonably certain it is located very close to the oil filter and may not require a special socket as the “light only” sensors do. does your car have an oil pressure light as well as a gauge? I’ve seen some Olds models that had the redundant system. Wishing you success!
Zero oil pressure would create a boat anchor where your engine used to be (in most cases). I guess it could be the oil pressure sending unit located on the engine. If low or zero pressure is tied to an onboard warning system then that could be the “dinging” you have been hearing. Curious though, in your initial post you said oil pressure was OK?
Zero oil pressure would create a boat anchor where your engine used to be (in most cases). I guess it could be the oil pressure sending unit located on the engine. If low or zero pressure is tied to an onboard warning system then that could be the “dinging” you have been hearing. Curious though, in your initial post you said oil pressure was OK?
I’m NOT a FORD mechanic. If I read your post correctly it appears you went 100K after the first rebuild/replacement of the trans. In that 100K did you perform any fluid/filter changes/flushes on the transmission? Did you replace the speed sensor that was detected in the scan at AutoZone? Who did the original rebuild/replacement? Have you had any discussion with them about the current condition? You mentioned that the car is a money pit-what else has plagued you with this vehicle? I’ve had clients in similar circumstances as yours with various brands of cars. Sometimes it is best to part ways, but I would not suggest telling the bank to take it, that is a black eye for you that would take a long time to heal. Let’s communicate.
I’m NOT a FORD mechanic. If I read your post correctly it appears you went 100K after the first rebuild/replacement of the trans. In that 100K did you perform any fluid/filter changes/flushes on the transmission? Did you replace the speed sensor that was detected in the scan at AutoZone? Who did the original rebuild/replacement? Have you had any discussion with them about the current condition? You mentioned that the car is a money pit-what else has plagued you with this vehicle? I’ve had clients in similar circumstances as yours with various brands of cars. Sometimes it is best to part ways, but I would not suggest telling the bank to take it, that is a black eye for you that would take a long time to heal. Let’s communicate.
For what it is worth-I experienced this condition with Acura RSX’s of the 2002-2004 range between 45K and 80K mileages. Acura dealer suggested a fluid change (which you did) using a BG brand product specially formulated for manual transmissions. It worked well for my customers and they only experienced difficulty on a 0-10 degree farenheit mornng until the trans oil warmed up a bit. Details below.
BG Syncro Shift® II
BG Syncro Shift® II is a gear lubricant specially formulated for front wheel drive manual transmissions. It does not sacrifice any performance as does engine oil, ATF or conventional gear oil. It provides required thermal stability, low-temperature fluidity, hot rattle suppression, noise dampening at operating temperature, outstanding extreme pressure characteristics, shear stability, smoother shifting characteristics, wear reduction (synchronizer, gears, bearings, shift fork), seal compatibility, and reduced maintenance costs.
Part No. 792 32 oz. (946 mL) bottleFor what it is worth-I experienced this condition with Acura RSX’s of the 2002-2004 range between 45K and 80K mileages. Acura dealer suggested a fluid change (which you did) using a BG brand product specially formulated for manual transmissions. It worked well for my customers and they only experienced difficulty on a 0-10 degree farenheit mornng until the trans oil warmed up a bit. Details below.
BG Syncro Shift® II
BG Syncro Shift® II is a gear lubricant specially formulated for front wheel drive manual transmissions. It does not sacrifice any performance as does engine oil, ATF or conventional gear oil. It provides required thermal stability, low-temperature fluidity, hot rattle suppression, noise dampening at operating temperature, outstanding extreme pressure characteristics, shear stability, smoother shifting characteristics, wear reduction (synchronizer, gears, bearings, shift fork), seal compatibility, and reduced maintenance costs.
Part No. 792 32 oz. (946 mL) bottleCheck the brakes on the noisy wheel. Could be the brake pad wear sensors contacting the brake rotor telling you it is time to replace the brake pads, I say this because the noise goes away when you turn the wheels, wear sensors will do that. I also say it because you describe the noise as high pitched, usually a wheel bearing is a lower pitched drummng type of noise-but not ALWAYS!
Check the brakes on the noisy wheel. Could be the brake pad wear sensors contacting the brake rotor telling you it is time to replace the brake pads, I say this because the noise goes away when you turn the wheels, wear sensors will do that. I also say it because you describe the noise as high pitched, usually a wheel bearing is a lower pitched drummng type of noise-but not ALWAYS!