Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Sunset here again-apologies-I failed to see there were 2 more pages of posts when I sent my first reply. Looking at the photos of the spark plugs there is absolutely something in the cylinder(s) that caused this damage. Not getting any loose metal out of the cylinders with a magnet is not conclusive. I’d bet that the pieces (probably of the valve faces are embedded in the tops of the pistons. See if you can borrow or rent a digital bore scope and go back in and look around the cylinders again. I strongly believe something broken is inside the cylinders.
Batteries are like light bulbs-age does not matter-a load test of the battery is necessary. A left field idea is to also have the starter checked for an internal short-have seen my share of starters that work OK but will drain the battery overnight. Let us know how you make out! By the way, a weak or internally shorted battery can upset the electrical signals for the ignition system resulting in misfire etc. Don’t give up!
Batteries are like light bulbs-age does not matter-a load test of the battery is necessary. A left field idea is to also have the starter checked for an internal short-have seen my share of starters that work OK but will drain the battery overnight. Let us know how you make out! By the way, a weak or internally shorted battery can upset the electrical signals for the ignition system resulting in misfire etc. Don’t give up!
Thank you Collegeman! I did discover that site prior to posting my question. I did not get as much detail as I’d like to have from the comments there. Methinks it is about time to invest in an online repair subscription service-sigh. Be well! Talk again soon!
Thank you Collegeman! I did discover that site prior to posting my question. I did not get as much detail as I’d like to have from the comments there. Methinks it is about time to invest in an online repair subscription service-sigh. Be well! Talk again soon!
Maybe not so funny but true. I watched a tech at a W.T. Grants Auto Center (in 1975) attempting to remove a rear brake drum from a Subaru. The tech had the car up on a lift and was hitting the drum with all his might using a large long handled sledge hammer. Eventually the drum broke into several pieces, he did not realize that the drum was held on by the large castle nut inside the dust cap for the bearing. I did not get there quick enough to stop him-not his best day.
Maybe not so funny but true. I watched a tech at a W.T. Grants Auto Center (in 1975) attempting to remove a rear brake drum from a Subaru. The tech had the car up on a lift and was hitting the drum with all his might using a large long handled sledge hammer. Eventually the drum broke into several pieces, he did not realize that the drum was held on by the large castle nut inside the dust cap for the bearing. I did not get there quick enough to stop him-not his best day.
IF you can, put a spark plug socket that has a hex at the drive end on it and use the hex with a wrench or a crows foot to break the plug loose. When loose, remove the socket and take out by hand.
It is a good idea to soak the area with rust penetrant first. Good luck.
IF you can, put a spark plug socket that has a hex at the drive end on it and use the hex with a wrench or a crows foot to break the plug loose. When loose, remove the socket and take out by hand.
It is a good idea to soak the area with rust penetrant first. Good luck.
It sounds like a torque converter problem-either wrong one or defective. I agree to contact the rebuilder and pick their brain too.
It sounds like a torque converter problem-either wrong one or defective. I agree to contact the rebuilder and pick their brain too.
Well ezaelectric-your logic is sound. Yet caliper failures outnumber collapsed brake hoses by a lot. I have seen either/or be a cause and I have seen both as a combination problem. It is one of those “gamble” situations to be sure. However some time way back when I DID see a kit that allowed you to read the pressures of the front brake hoses with gauges and adapters. A nice tool yet I passes on it because of cost and other factors. It would be definitive!
Well ezaelectric-your logic is sound. Yet caliper failures outnumber collapsed brake hoses by a lot. I have seen either/or be a cause and I have seen both as a combination problem. It is one of those “gamble” situations to be sure. However some time way back when I DID see a kit that allowed you to read the pressures of the front brake hoses with gauges and adapters. A nice tool yet I passes on it because of cost and other factors. It would be definitive!
That is good news! Sad about Rock Auto though. I’ve had my problems with them from time to time. My worst story with them is an A/C compressor that failed one day out of warranty-they refused to help. I have to think that shipping was costly for rotors-they are not lightweight. I hope you have better luck with them than I did with my A/C compressor! Be sure you have some strong evidence as to why you think the part is wrong, i.e. measurement differences between old and new part etc. They can be stiff about things.
Best of luck to you!That is good news! Sad about Rock Auto though. I’ve had my problems with them from time to time. My worst story with them is an A/C compressor that failed one day out of warranty-they refused to help. I have to think that shipping was costly for rotors-they are not lightweight. I hope you have better luck with them than I did with my A/C compressor! Be sure you have some strong evidence as to why you think the part is wrong, i.e. measurement differences between old and new part etc. They can be stiff about things.
Best of luck to you!