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I think definitely a starter with new solenoid is needed. Buy a decent one not from an auto parts box store. It is certainly worth looking into the ignition switch, I find your symptoms more with FORD ignition switches than GM but given the age of the vehicle and the switch possibly being original it is not an expensive place to start. I recently had a 2004 Malibu in that had an intermitent crank but no start condition. Other shops replaced fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator etc. etc.. I threw an ignition switch at it and the problem has not returned.
I think definitely a starter with new solenoid is needed. Buy a decent one not from an auto parts box store. It is certainly worth looking into the ignition switch, I find your symptoms more with FORD ignition switches than GM but given the age of the vehicle and the switch possibly being original it is not an expensive place to start. I recently had a 2004 Malibu in that had an intermitent crank but no start condition. Other shops replaced fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator etc. etc.. I threw an ignition switch at it and the problem has not returned.
My strong suggestion is to try purchasing another brand from another source. I’ve experienced similar repeated patterns of failure with various automotive components i.e. struts, alternators, brakes etc. that resolved when i changed brands and or suppliers. So many of the big box auto parts stores give the warranties on sub-standard or marginal components to keep you coming back into the store to buy more items. It’s call lost lead selling. Sadly it does exist.
Keep your diagnosing as simple and as focused as possible.
My strong suggestion is to try purchasing another brand from another source. I’ve experienced similar repeated patterns of failure with various automotive components i.e. struts, alternators, brakes etc. that resolved when i changed brands and or suppliers. So many of the big box auto parts stores give the warranties on sub-standard or marginal components to keep you coming back into the store to buy more items. It’s call lost lead selling. Sadly it does exist.
Keep your diagnosing as simple and as focused as possible.
How many miles on the vehicle and which joints fail-outers, inners, both? Saw this condition on several Chrysler Cirrus models (I know you have a T&C) the root cause in all the Cirrus models was due to failed trans and engine mounts. Have those been checked? Also do you do any towing with the vehicle? Have you tried different parts sources over the past 5-replacements?
How many miles on the vehicle and which joints fail-outers, inners, both? Saw this condition on several Chrysler Cirrus models (I know you have a T&C) the root cause in all the Cirrus models was due to failed trans and engine mounts. Have those been checked? Also do you do any towing with the vehicle? Have you tried different parts sources over the past 5-replacements?
I understand your feeling about the dealer. But did they say they might look at it as a courtesy since THEY can’t tell exactly by the VIN? If they did not say anything about that then you might want to ask if they would look at it as a courtesy since they can’t tell exactly by the VIN. Dealers can be useful-if you use them carefully. Remember-they hope you’ll buy another car from them someday…..maybe. I always try to approach them with my hat in hand and a thin wallet in my words…. gotta go sleep time.
I understand your feeling about the dealer. But did they say they might look at it as a courtesy since THEY can’t tell exactly by the VIN? If they did not say anything about that then you might want to ask if they would look at it as a courtesy since they can’t tell exactly by the VIN. Dealers can be useful-if you use them carefully. Remember-they hope you’ll buy another car from them someday…..maybe. I always try to approach them with my hat in hand and a thin wallet in my words…. gotta go sleep time.
I sourced another local parts website-according to it if you have a VTEC engine there is NO listing for an EGR valve. If you have a DOHC non VTEC engine then there is a listing for the EGR Valve. A call to an Acura dealer parts department and giving them the VIN should answer the EGR question once and for all and for sure!
I sourced another local parts website-according to it if you have a VTEC engine there is NO listing for an EGR valve. If you have a DOHC non VTEC engine then there is a listing for the EGR Valve. A call to an Acura dealer parts department and giving them the VIN should answer the EGR question once and for all and for sure!
OK I hope that resolves the problem for you. I don’t have any other thoughts on it at this point. It is always difficult when a new problem shows up right after you’ve worked on something related to the new problem, in your case the ABS/Stability Control system. BTW I can’t speak for FORD but on Toyota the MIL lights for both systems show up together anytime I’ve had to deal with them. fix the failed system and both lights go out. Have not seen a condition where there was a problem with both systems at the same time (yet).
OK I hope that resolves the problem for you. I don’t have any other thoughts on it at this point. It is always difficult when a new problem shows up right after you’ve worked on something related to the new problem, in your case the ABS/Stability Control system. BTW I can’t speak for FORD but on Toyota the MIL lights for both systems show up together anytime I’ve had to deal with them. fix the failed system and both lights go out. Have not seen a condition where there was a problem with both systems at the same time (yet).