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Walter Cheryba

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Viewing 15 replies - 226 through 240 (of 356 total)
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  • in reply to: Nuts and Bolts #527969
    Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
    Participant

      OK you could remove one of them, take it to a good hardware store or parts store and match it up that way, or go a salvage yard and pull some. Grade and hardness of the bolts matter in this application.

      in reply to: Nuts and Bolts #527956
      Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
      Participant

        Contact MOOG corporation-they may have the info, you could also try Gabriel and Monroe.

        in reply to: Nuts and Bolts #531186
        Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
        Participant

          Contact MOOG corporation-they may have the info, you could also try Gabriel and Monroe.

          in reply to: 1998 dodge ram 318 stutter/load up problem? #527955
          Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
          Participant

            I have not found that Bosch sensors work on most anything that did not come from Germany to begin with. Longshot on your issues-isolate the power brake booster from engine vacuum and notice any changes in your conditions. Had the booster be the cause of driveability issues in the past on many different brands. Does not always show up in brake pedal feel or braking performance. Cheap try!

            in reply to: 1998 dodge ram 318 stutter/load up problem? #531184
            Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
            Participant

              I have not found that Bosch sensors work on most anything that did not come from Germany to begin with. Longshot on your issues-isolate the power brake booster from engine vacuum and notice any changes in your conditions. Had the booster be the cause of driveability issues in the past on many different brands. Does not always show up in brake pedal feel or braking performance. Cheap try!

              in reply to: 05 Buick Century, turn signal problem #530473
              Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
              Participant

                I’m on board with wysetech. IF any of the brake lights in the rear of the car share a bulb (dual filament) with the running lights (headlights on) check the sockets, bulbs, and associated wiring for defects.

                in reply to: 05 Buick Century, turn signal problem #527226
                Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
                Participant

                  I’m on board with wysetech. IF any of the brake lights in the rear of the car share a bulb (dual filament) with the running lights (headlights on) check the sockets, bulbs, and associated wiring for defects.

                  in reply to: Are early model Ford Escapes (00-04) reliable? #530472
                  Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
                  Participant

                    Problems I’ve seen with the V6 models, coil pack failures, coolant bypass hose leakage, catalytic converter plugging causing EGR valve to blow out, bodies like to rust at the rear doors-open rear doors and inspect the dogleg area that the door covers when closed, front lower control arm bushings age and squeak a lot while driving, passenger side e-brake cable likes to seize for some reason. These are repeated failures I’ve experienced with these vehicles.

                    in reply to: Are early model Ford Escapes (00-04) reliable? #527224
                    Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
                    Participant

                      Problems I’ve seen with the V6 models, coil pack failures, coolant bypass hose leakage, catalytic converter plugging causing EGR valve to blow out, bodies like to rust at the rear doors-open rear doors and inspect the dogleg area that the door covers when closed, front lower control arm bushings age and squeak a lot while driving, passenger side e-brake cable likes to seize for some reason. These are repeated failures I’ve experienced with these vehicles.

                      in reply to: Wooing sound around 35-40mph #530470
                      Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
                      Participant

                        Check all your engine and transmission mounts. I suspect this since your jackstand test did not produce the noise. Things load and flex differently with the vehicle on the road. Worth a look.

                        in reply to: Wooing sound around 35-40mph #527220
                        Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
                        Participant

                          Check all your engine and transmission mounts. I suspect this since your jackstand test did not produce the noise. Things load and flex differently with the vehicle on the road. Worth a look.

                          in reply to: Starter problems. #530399
                          Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
                          Participant

                            I just remembered-some of the GM solenoids can be disassembled. If there are screws/bolts holding the black non-metal piece on to the metal body of the solenoid. If there are then remove the screws/bolts and separate the black piece from the body. There might be a wire attached on the inside so do this carefully. Once you have it apart you will see a metal disc on the black part that is held in place by the jam nuts for the electrical studs. You can remove the jam nuts, and then rotate that disc 180 degrees. You will see the wear on that disc as well as the solenoid plunger. Sometimes the wear on the solenoid plunger side is too great to save it, but flipping the disc on the plastic part resurrected many a “dead” solenoid for me. I hope I’ve explained it well enough.

                            in reply to: Starter problems. #527155
                            Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
                            Participant

                              I just remembered-some of the GM solenoids can be disassembled. If there are screws/bolts holding the black non-metal piece on to the metal body of the solenoid. If there are then remove the screws/bolts and separate the black piece from the body. There might be a wire attached on the inside so do this carefully. Once you have it apart you will see a metal disc on the black part that is held in place by the jam nuts for the electrical studs. You can remove the jam nuts, and then rotate that disc 180 degrees. You will see the wear on that disc as well as the solenoid plunger. Sometimes the wear on the solenoid plunger side is too great to save it, but flipping the disc on the plastic part resurrected many a “dead” solenoid for me. I hope I’ve explained it well enough.

                              in reply to: 2000 Chevy Caviler Heater Core Removal #530397
                              Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
                              Participant

                                OK will do.

                                in reply to: 2000 Chevy Caviler Heater Core Removal #527153
                                Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
                                Participant

                                  OK will do.

                                Viewing 15 replies - 226 through 240 (of 356 total)
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