Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorReplies
-
OK you could remove one of them, take it to a good hardware store or parts store and match it up that way, or go a salvage yard and pull some. Grade and hardness of the bolts matter in this application.
Contact MOOG corporation-they may have the info, you could also try Gabriel and Monroe.
Contact MOOG corporation-they may have the info, you could also try Gabriel and Monroe.
I have not found that Bosch sensors work on most anything that did not come from Germany to begin with. Longshot on your issues-isolate the power brake booster from engine vacuum and notice any changes in your conditions. Had the booster be the cause of driveability issues in the past on many different brands. Does not always show up in brake pedal feel or braking performance. Cheap try!
I have not found that Bosch sensors work on most anything that did not come from Germany to begin with. Longshot on your issues-isolate the power brake booster from engine vacuum and notice any changes in your conditions. Had the booster be the cause of driveability issues in the past on many different brands. Does not always show up in brake pedal feel or braking performance. Cheap try!
I’m on board with wysetech. IF any of the brake lights in the rear of the car share a bulb (dual filament) with the running lights (headlights on) check the sockets, bulbs, and associated wiring for defects.
I’m on board with wysetech. IF any of the brake lights in the rear of the car share a bulb (dual filament) with the running lights (headlights on) check the sockets, bulbs, and associated wiring for defects.
Problems I’ve seen with the V6 models, coil pack failures, coolant bypass hose leakage, catalytic converter plugging causing EGR valve to blow out, bodies like to rust at the rear doors-open rear doors and inspect the dogleg area that the door covers when closed, front lower control arm bushings age and squeak a lot while driving, passenger side e-brake cable likes to seize for some reason. These are repeated failures I’ve experienced with these vehicles.
Problems I’ve seen with the V6 models, coil pack failures, coolant bypass hose leakage, catalytic converter plugging causing EGR valve to blow out, bodies like to rust at the rear doors-open rear doors and inspect the dogleg area that the door covers when closed, front lower control arm bushings age and squeak a lot while driving, passenger side e-brake cable likes to seize for some reason. These are repeated failures I’ve experienced with these vehicles.
Check all your engine and transmission mounts. I suspect this since your jackstand test did not produce the noise. Things load and flex differently with the vehicle on the road. Worth a look.
Check all your engine and transmission mounts. I suspect this since your jackstand test did not produce the noise. Things load and flex differently with the vehicle on the road. Worth a look.
I just remembered-some of the GM solenoids can be disassembled. If there are screws/bolts holding the black non-metal piece on to the metal body of the solenoid. If there are then remove the screws/bolts and separate the black piece from the body. There might be a wire attached on the inside so do this carefully. Once you have it apart you will see a metal disc on the black part that is held in place by the jam nuts for the electrical studs. You can remove the jam nuts, and then rotate that disc 180 degrees. You will see the wear on that disc as well as the solenoid plunger. Sometimes the wear on the solenoid plunger side is too great to save it, but flipping the disc on the plastic part resurrected many a “dead” solenoid for me. I hope I’ve explained it well enough.
I just remembered-some of the GM solenoids can be disassembled. If there are screws/bolts holding the black non-metal piece on to the metal body of the solenoid. If there are then remove the screws/bolts and separate the black piece from the body. There might be a wire attached on the inside so do this carefully. Once you have it apart you will see a metal disc on the black part that is held in place by the jam nuts for the electrical studs. You can remove the jam nuts, and then rotate that disc 180 degrees. You will see the wear on that disc as well as the solenoid plunger. Sometimes the wear on the solenoid plunger side is too great to save it, but flipping the disc on the plastic part resurrected many a “dead” solenoid for me. I hope I’ve explained it well enough.
OK will do.
OK will do.
-
AuthorReplies