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You will need an assistant and a pair of insulated spark plug wire pliers. When the car shuts off warm and won’t restart open the hood and remove one of the spark plug wires either from the spark plug end or the coil pack/distributor end. Place the end of the plug wire in the jaws of the pliers and while holding the end of the wire close to where you disconnected it from have your assistant crank the enginelisten for a cracking sound and look for a visible arcing spark.
If you can, take the whole assembly to a reputable auto glass shop. they should be nice enough to tell you what you need to do.
If you can, take the whole assembly to a reputable auto glass shop. they should be nice enough to tell you what you need to do.
I’m curious-did you adjust the ATF level after discovering the overfull condition? I’ve seen automatic transmissions push fluid through a breather which is really a relief valve in disguise. I’m not familiar with your application, does your vehicle have such a device?
I’m curious-did you adjust the ATF level after discovering the overfull condition? I’ve seen automatic transmissions push fluid through a breather which is really a relief valve in disguise. I’m not familiar with your application, does your vehicle have such a device?
[quote=”brokemechanic3000″ post=63816]Yeah and when you are stuck on the side of the road without a scanner to tell you which sensor or electrical part is bad I will drive by with my old out of date archaic technology. I can fix a carburetor with a screwdriver and a wrench, what size wrench does that foreign made electronic mess take? :stick:
By the way cars with carburetors got mileage in the 20 to 40 mpg back in the day and an old civic from the 80s gets the same mileage as a new one.
Now manufacturers do not want people working in their own cars hence no dipsticks, and the special tool needed to check these fluids most of the time is a dipstick. :huh: :angry:[/quote]You tell em’ broke! Remember this all you young whippersnappers: “old age and treachery will always win out over youth and exuberance” (and sometimes technology too!) 🙂
[quote=”brokemechanic3000″ post=63816]Yeah and when you are stuck on the side of the road without a scanner to tell you which sensor or electrical part is bad I will drive by with my old out of date archaic technology. I can fix a carburetor with a screwdriver and a wrench, what size wrench does that foreign made electronic mess take? :stick:
By the way cars with carburetors got mileage in the 20 to 40 mpg back in the day and an old civic from the 80s gets the same mileage as a new one.
Now manufacturers do not want people working in their own cars hence no dipsticks, and the special tool needed to check these fluids most of the time is a dipstick. :huh: :angry:[/quote]You tell em’ broke! Remember this all you young whippersnappers: “old age and treachery will always win out over youth and exuberance” (and sometimes technology too!) 🙂
Hello Hinoki,
You have experienced something I have preached for YEARS! Many manufacturers design their vehicles with planned cascading obsolescence. In my experience FORD is number-1 in this category, and Nissan is number-2. Most of the other manufacturers (in my opinion) design a major component failure into the life of the vehicle where an owner looks at the cost of the repair vs the value of the car and simply says forget it. I’ve experienced a lot of unfinished diagnostic stories because owners have simply walked away. The cost was not worth it to them. The automakers know that automotive DIY’ers are too small a percentage to worry about yet we are not forgotten. They continue to raise the prices of parts to us that have been sitting on the shelf for years. In the case of FORD they simply “obsolete” the part after restricting its production by the aftermarket through patents etc. Nice trick! Sarcasm and bitterness come with reality-it is the bonus package! Don’t keep that “new” Ranger too long or you’ll be back at square one. Think about this, why are lease terms so short, some of it is residual resale value, that’s bean counting. Some of it is because the manufacturer knows when the cascade or the major component failure sequence begins. Conspiracy theory thinking? I’ve been so accused. Enough!Hello Hinoki,
You have experienced something I have preached for YEARS! Many manufacturers design their vehicles with planned cascading obsolescence. In my experience FORD is number-1 in this category, and Nissan is number-2. Most of the other manufacturers (in my opinion) design a major component failure into the life of the vehicle where an owner looks at the cost of the repair vs the value of the car and simply says forget it. I’ve experienced a lot of unfinished diagnostic stories because owners have simply walked away. The cost was not worth it to them. The automakers know that automotive DIY’ers are too small a percentage to worry about yet we are not forgotten. They continue to raise the prices of parts to us that have been sitting on the shelf for years. In the case of FORD they simply “obsolete” the part after restricting its production by the aftermarket through patents etc. Nice trick! Sarcasm and bitterness come with reality-it is the bonus package! Don’t keep that “new” Ranger too long or you’ll be back at square one. Think about this, why are lease terms so short, some of it is residual resale value, that’s bean counting. Some of it is because the manufacturer knows when the cascade or the major component failure sequence begins. Conspiracy theory thinking? I’ve been so accused. Enough!Honda recommends replacement at 10 years of age or 90,000 miles. Replacing the water pump is not part of the Honda schedule. That has become routine with any timing belt driven water pump. Fear is that when timing belt tension is released on the water pump and then reapplied with the new belt/tensioner that it will cause the water pump to leak and very possibly destroy the new timing belt. Also it then becomes double labor to go back in and replace the pump. Anyway I agree with College Man.
Honda recommends replacement at 10 years of age or 90,000 miles. Replacing the water pump is not part of the Honda schedule. That has become routine with any timing belt driven water pump. Fear is that when timing belt tension is released on the water pump and then reapplied with the new belt/tensioner that it will cause the water pump to leak and very possibly destroy the new timing belt. Also it then becomes double labor to go back in and replace the pump. Anyway I agree with College Man.
Remove the starter from the vehicle, inspect the drive gear and the teeth on the flywheel/ring gear for damage. Check for free movement of the drive gear on the starter motor shaft. Likely the starter needs replaced but be sure to check the teeth on the flywheel/ring gear on the engine.