Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I saw that video a while back, I took a chance and changed that solenoid (didn’t help). If I understand you though,if the PCM is commanding the solenoid open in my case, then that could be the reason it’s running lean. solenoid is working but getting bad instructions from the PCM.
I saw that video a while back, I took a chance and changed that solenoid (didn’t help). If I understand you though,if the PCM is commanding the solenoid open in my case, then that could be the reason it’s running lean. solenoid is working but getting bad instructions from the PCM.
what’s the solution for that? is this an indication to get the PCM reflashed/updated at the dealer?
I’d rather fall into a snake pit than go to the local dealership, but if I gotta…guess I gotta.what’s the solution for that? is this an indication to get the PCM reflashed/updated at the dealer?
I’d rather fall into a snake pit than go to the local dealership, but if I gotta…guess I gotta.thanks much, I did not understand that about the fuel pump before.
I did replace that check valve (on mine it’s below the air intake trunk, passenger side) $100…still didn’t fix the issue but I figure it will need replacing sooner or later anyway.thanks again
-Mikethanks much, I did not understand that about the fuel pump before.
I did replace that check valve (on mine it’s below the air intake trunk, passenger side) $100…still didn’t fix the issue but I figure it will need replacing sooner or later anyway.thanks again
-MikeChecked fuel pressure…key on/engine off I show 52 psi. with the key on, the needle goes to around 60 but flutters between about 58-62.
Looks like it’s in the right area for pressure, but I’ve never seen a gauge flutter like that. (I’ve only checked pressure on one other vehicle ever so not much experience either). Looking around the net…looks like maybe that’s normal behavior, or is it?Checked fuel pressure…key on/engine off I show 52 psi. with the key on, the needle goes to around 60 but flutters between about 58-62.
Looks like it’s in the right area for pressure, but I’ve never seen a gauge flutter like that. (I’ve only checked pressure on one other vehicle ever so not much experience either). Looking around the net…looks like maybe that’s normal behavior, or is it?for giggles, I pulled the resonator off tonight and did a little looking around. found the bolts holding the throttle body kind of loose, so I tightened back down. I had unplugged the neg on the battery also. put everything back together and cranked it up.
After letting it warm up about five minutes, I put the scanner on. Idling at 600rpm, the LT trim was around 14%. At 1500 rpm, LT trim dropped to about 4.5%. Looks alot better…now was it because I tightened up the throttle body bolts…or just temporary due to the battery being unhooked? …we’ll see.for giggles, I pulled the resonator off tonight and did a little looking around. found the bolts holding the throttle body kind of loose, so I tightened back down. I had unplugged the neg on the battery also. put everything back together and cranked it up.
After letting it warm up about five minutes, I put the scanner on. Idling at 600rpm, the LT trim was around 14%. At 1500 rpm, LT trim dropped to about 4.5%. Looks alot better…now was it because I tightened up the throttle body bolts…or just temporary due to the battery being unhooked? …we’ll see.I’ve checked with the gauge a few times, but always warmed up; from Sam’s suggestion, I want to check it after it’s cooled down…can’t hurt. I think I’m going to try your spray method next.
Couple of other questions come to mind.
1. could an erratic check valve on the brake booster cause the lean condition?
2. as far as using a vacuum gauge is the spot on the manifold the only place I can plug one in?
3. I did catch a code for EVAP small leak the other night (went away on it’s own). The only component left I haven’t r/r’d is the vapor canister…maybe time to check that and/or get the whole thing smoke tested? could that be making it run lean?
thanks -Mike
