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Rebuilds tend to range from $800 (VERY best case) to about $3,000.
$1489 sounds about right. And the torque converter – Yeah just let them replace it. It is probably partially clogged with crap that fell apart in the bad trans.
It is kind of for the same reason you would go ahead and put on a new timing belt if you had to change head gaskets on an overhead cam engine.I do not travel much these days but I figured if one was going to drive more than say 200’ish miles out of town especially if the weather is gonna be dangerous, renting a car would be the way to go. THAT way if it breaks down, it is not your problem really.
I mean imagine being in the middle of BFE (aka Kansas) and your ride decides to kapluut.
I do not travel much these days but I figured if one was going to drive more than say 200’ish miles out of town especially if the weather is gonna be dangerous, renting a car would be the way to go. THAT way if it breaks down, it is not your problem really.
I mean imagine being in the middle of BFE (aka Kansas) and your ride decides to kapluut.
Looking at KBB, assuming the following –
250,000 miles, auto trans, in “very good” condition,it is saying $1740.
Assuming the same things with 80,000 miles – $2814.
“very good” implies most stuff is good AND service records are verifiable and present.Problems based on my 97 CL 3.0 with auto trans – Idle sometimes goes weird (IACV failure, not too bad a fix). Power seat will not go forward or back. Manually rigged by me to position. Cruise control fail due to the plastic piece holding the cruise cable in place breaking. Some dash/climate control panel lights working when they want to. My trans does shift kind of harsh between first and second. Rear calipers problems. make sure park brake works AND holds the vehicle still. If you put on the park brake and can still push the vehicle, you are either Chuck Norris or the back brakes need attention. Release park brake and you should be able to move car by pushing.
NOW – if the owner can prove the trans has been recently rebuilt (assuming auto)then it would maybe be worth the above figures. You see, the trans in these things sucks.
Who is selling it? Is it a reputable dealer, a “buy here pay here” shop, or some guy on craigslist who said, “Yar she idles a bit funny sometimes but that might be the brain. You can go to the junkyard and get one for about $25”. Of course his sister and wife (same woman) will attest to the quality of the car.
In any case, if it is missing a door hinge and has had some paint work done, it has PROBABLY been wrecked. Carfax won’t show it and the seller probably won’t admit it.
In that case do not pay more than $1,500. Unlike older GM cars, Honda doors don’t usually go missing hinges.My Acura – 1997 3.0 CL with auto. They are smooth riding cars and not too bad to work on.
Looking at KBB, assuming the following –
250,000 miles, auto trans, in “very good” condition,it is saying $1740.
Assuming the same things with 80,000 miles – $2814.
“very good” implies most stuff is good AND service records are verifiable and present.Problems based on my 97 CL 3.0 with auto trans – Idle sometimes goes weird (IACV failure, not too bad a fix). Power seat will not go forward or back. Manually rigged by me to position. Cruise control fail due to the plastic piece holding the cruise cable in place breaking. Some dash/climate control panel lights working when they want to. My trans does shift kind of harsh between first and second. Rear calipers problems. make sure park brake works AND holds the vehicle still. If you put on the park brake and can still push the vehicle, you are either Chuck Norris or the back brakes need attention. Release park brake and you should be able to move car by pushing.
NOW – if the owner can prove the trans has been recently rebuilt (assuming auto)then it would maybe be worth the above figures. You see, the trans in these things sucks.
Who is selling it? Is it a reputable dealer, a “buy here pay here” shop, or some guy on craigslist who said, “Yar she idles a bit funny sometimes but that might be the brain. You can go to the junkyard and get one for about $25”. Of course his sister and wife (same woman) will attest to the quality of the car.
In any case, if it is missing a door hinge and has had some paint work done, it has PROBABLY been wrecked. Carfax won’t show it and the seller probably won’t admit it.
In that case do not pay more than $1,500. Unlike older GM cars, Honda doors don’t usually go missing hinges.My Acura – 1997 3.0 CL with auto. They are smooth riding cars and not too bad to work on.
So after checking and resoldering the main relay, didn’t make a difference.
The car is in the garage and I noticed the symptoms get bad when the engine is warm.
As in – the warmer the engine, the less likely it is to start. When it does start, idle seems fine but gunning the engine can stall or kill it.
Distributer contacts are clean, coil resistances are within specs at room temperature, two years ago a shop replaced the plugs, wires distributer and cap.I don’t have a way to check the Ignition control module.
So after checking and resoldering the main relay, didn’t make a difference.
The car is in the garage and I noticed the symptoms get bad when the engine is warm.
As in – the warmer the engine, the less likely it is to start. When it does start, idle seems fine but gunning the engine can stall or kill it.
Distributer contacts are clean, coil resistances are within specs at room temperature, two years ago a shop replaced the plugs, wires distributer and cap.I don’t have a way to check the Ignition control module.
10 years without changing the coolant, even dex-cool? Dex cool is kind of hard on gaskets anyways.
Honestly, by the time the thermostat failed, the rest of the engine probably had more problems than a third world country. Nothing you could have really done by then.
There is a reason why maintenance is necessary.Makes me wonder – how do shop mechanics handle it when someone brings in their car and the thing rotting from bumper to bumper (like my sister’s car)?
10 years without changing the coolant, even dex-cool? Dex cool is kind of hard on gaskets anyways.
Honestly, by the time the thermostat failed, the rest of the engine probably had more problems than a third world country. Nothing you could have really done by then.
There is a reason why maintenance is necessary.Makes me wonder – how do shop mechanics handle it when someone brings in their car and the thing rotting from bumper to bumper (like my sister’s car)?
hmm, IIRC, that thing has a 125-C trans.
problem with rebuilding a trans if you have never done one – it is REAL easy to mess something up and have no way of knowing what just happened –
Like say you are taking apart the valve body incorrectly and the check balls fall all over the floor. Where do those go? That and trying to fit the gaskets etc… You can compare the old gaskets to the new, IF the old ones come off in one piece. Sometimes they tear up so bad that the neighborhood vandalist would be proud.
That and trying to rebuild the clutch packs is a pain if you don’t have the proper tools.If you try to tackle the trans, just make real sure to do your homework first. Then go back and re-do your homework.
OH and finally – the converter clutch solenoid on the trans needs replaced – it is bad. That is why some cavaliers drive OK but stall out at lights (as if not disengaging the clutch on a manual)if you were driving faster than say 35.
hmm, IIRC, that thing has a 125-C trans.
problem with rebuilding a trans if you have never done one – it is REAL easy to mess something up and have no way of knowing what just happened –
Like say you are taking apart the valve body incorrectly and the check balls fall all over the floor. Where do those go? That and trying to fit the gaskets etc… You can compare the old gaskets to the new, IF the old ones come off in one piece. Sometimes they tear up so bad that the neighborhood vandalist would be proud.
That and trying to rebuild the clutch packs is a pain if you don’t have the proper tools.If you try to tackle the trans, just make real sure to do your homework first. Then go back and re-do your homework.
OH and finally – the converter clutch solenoid on the trans needs replaced – it is bad. That is why some cavaliers drive OK but stall out at lights (as if not disengaging the clutch on a manual)if you were driving faster than say 35.
With a swap – of course find out what kind of warranty is offered.
Whatever it is you decide – consider this – you are going to be dropping 4 figures. Do not feel shy about getting a second opinion.
Most shops are going to want to do the job RIGHT though. Most home mechanics will often do work just to “get by” and save money, like maybe valve guides would patch it up but a reputable, liable shop isn’t gonna just rig cause they know if something goes bad, they will have to fix it again.
Finally – on a 2001 car, with 161K if it needs an engine, if the car just cannot be driven daily, maybe weigh if it’s even worth spending $1,700’ish on an engine.
With a swap – of course find out what kind of warranty is offered.
Whatever it is you decide – consider this – you are going to be dropping 4 figures. Do not feel shy about getting a second opinion.
Most shops are going to want to do the job RIGHT though. Most home mechanics will often do work just to “get by” and save money, like maybe valve guides would patch it up but a reputable, liable shop isn’t gonna just rig cause they know if something goes bad, they will have to fix it again.
Finally – on a 2001 car, with 161K if it needs an engine, if the car just cannot be driven daily, maybe weigh if it’s even worth spending $1,700’ish on an engine.
So, intermmittent problem with indicator, and when it is messing up, it flashes faster than should.
When a bulb or connector is bad, the blinker either flashes too fast or not at all (just stays on)Bulbs are either good or they are not. they don’t go bad “sometimes” and come back to life.
The first thing you should check is all the bulb sockets on the bad side. Don’t be shocked if the socket is crudded up with BS, causing an occasional open. Once they get corroded, even a road bump can jar the connection just enough to contact or not.
Changing the turn signal switch is the last resort.
But, just for the heck of it, maybe in your driveway, try the signal and slightly move the arm back and forth (CAREfully)and that would tell you if there is a bad connect in the switchSo, intermmittent problem with indicator, and when it is messing up, it flashes faster than should.
When a bulb or connector is bad, the blinker either flashes too fast or not at all (just stays on)Bulbs are either good or they are not. they don’t go bad “sometimes” and come back to life.
The first thing you should check is all the bulb sockets on the bad side. Don’t be shocked if the socket is crudded up with BS, causing an occasional open. Once they get corroded, even a road bump can jar the connection just enough to contact or not.
Changing the turn signal switch is the last resort.
But, just for the heck of it, maybe in your driveway, try the signal and slightly move the arm back and forth (CAREfully)and that would tell you if there is a bad connect in the switch