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Skimming the list, I had plenty of those problems on a 94 grand prix with the 3.4 DOHC (LQ1) engine. It was falling apart faster than I could fix it. It was the second worst car I ever owned.
Anyways sticking to the facts – what about radiator leaks? Mine had a leak and I tried TWO different ones from a junk yard from W-bodies and they leaked in the same spot.
Also on W body with the LQ1, what about the distributor shaft leak (where it was just a plug in there)
Skimming the list, I had plenty of those problems on a 94 grand prix with the 3.4 DOHC (LQ1) engine. It was falling apart faster than I could fix it. It was the second worst car I ever owned.
Anyways sticking to the facts – what about radiator leaks? Mine had a leak and I tried TWO different ones from a junk yard from W-bodies and they leaked in the same spot.
Also on W body with the LQ1, what about the distributor shaft leak (where it was just a plug in there)
No need to buy or spray toxic chemicals. Yeah they can attract (and kill) ants but you want to repel them. Cinnamon works well for this. Just do not mix it with sugar. Cinnamon somehow screws up ants’ smell sensors. Non toxic, cheap,
Why insects would be attracted to some metal and plastic machine that puts off toxic pollution is strange. Not even the hardest core omnivores could look at a car and think, “MMMM, something good to eat!” Well maybe Godzilla…
No need to buy or spray toxic chemicals. Yeah they can attract (and kill) ants but you want to repel them. Cinnamon works well for this. Just do not mix it with sugar. Cinnamon somehow screws up ants’ smell sensors. Non toxic, cheap,
Why insects would be attracted to some metal and plastic machine that puts off toxic pollution is strange. Not even the hardest core omnivores could look at a car and think, “MMMM, something good to eat!” Well maybe Godzilla…
Ahh, the good ol W-body from GM.
First, if you REALLY are worried then yeah, OEM is the best bet.Those coolant level sensors on W body cars are a HUGE known problem. They suck. My 94 Grand Prix had it on constantly.
Since it is usually bad – that means the light is NO indication of whether or not the coolant is low. Some W body owners just disconnect the thing and be done with it.
There is probably nothing else wrong with that sensor system. Just keep an eye on the coolant the old fashioned way, the same way us DIY’ers check all the fluids at least once a week.
Ahh, the good ol W-body from GM.
First, if you REALLY are worried then yeah, OEM is the best bet.Those coolant level sensors on W body cars are a HUGE known problem. They suck. My 94 Grand Prix had it on constantly.
Since it is usually bad – that means the light is NO indication of whether or not the coolant is low. Some W body owners just disconnect the thing and be done with it.
There is probably nothing else wrong with that sensor system. Just keep an eye on the coolant the old fashioned way, the same way us DIY’ers check all the fluids at least once a week.
Timing re-check yes but also –
You didn’t forget to reconnect something silly? Little stuff is easy to overlook.Hmm I am no expert on that engine BUT – are you sure none of the valves got bent since the belt broke while the engine was running? If it is an “interference” engine there is probably a bent valve. Compression test will determine that or not.
Also, was the intake or any part of the fuel system bled and removed for any reason? If so, it is probably just priming itself. I had to do intake gasket replacements on two different cars (one with a GM 3.4 engine and the other a 2.5 duratec)and in both cases, the engine had a hard time starting after i got it together. That was after the UIM, LIM, and fueel rails were completely removed. Once they fired up, all was smooth sailing.
If you keep trying to crank though AFTER you know the timing is good and no bent valves, do not burn out the starter AND have another car to jump start in case the battery dies.
Timing re-check yes but also –
You didn’t forget to reconnect something silly? Little stuff is easy to overlook.Hmm I am no expert on that engine BUT – are you sure none of the valves got bent since the belt broke while the engine was running? If it is an “interference” engine there is probably a bent valve. Compression test will determine that or not.
Also, was the intake or any part of the fuel system bled and removed for any reason? If so, it is probably just priming itself. I had to do intake gasket replacements on two different cars (one with a GM 3.4 engine and the other a 2.5 duratec)and in both cases, the engine had a hard time starting after i got it together. That was after the UIM, LIM, and fueel rails were completely removed. Once they fired up, all was smooth sailing.
If you keep trying to crank though AFTER you know the timing is good and no bent valves, do not burn out the starter AND have another car to jump start in case the battery dies.
[quote=”college man” post=112340]The 1999 had problems up to 2005 which was a redesign.
what happens is the clutch material breaks down and starts
clogging things. Unless you get a specific code which may
not help. All you can do is try changing the fluid and refilling
with Honda fluid. actually the harder it shifts the less clutch
wear. Unless its really hard/obnoxious.How many miles? The four
speeds has a little less problems then the 5 speeds.[/quote]Mine is a 4 speed automatic. BTW the car is a 1997.
The car has 261,000’ish miles but I have no history on service, as I am the new owner.
It is not “obnoxious” like say a failing CD4E (ford contour automatic) but it is not seamless. I am just trying to gauge if I am overly paranoid. New car jitters?[quote=”college man” post=112340]The 1999 had problems up to 2005 which was a redesign.
what happens is the clutch material breaks down and starts
clogging things. Unless you get a specific code which may
not help. All you can do is try changing the fluid and refilling
with Honda fluid. actually the harder it shifts the less clutch
wear. Unless its really hard/obnoxious.How many miles? The four
speeds has a little less problems then the 5 speeds.[/quote]Mine is a 4 speed automatic. BTW the car is a 1997.
The car has 261,000’ish miles but I have no history on service, as I am the new owner.
It is not “obnoxious” like say a failing CD4E (ford contour automatic) but it is not seamless. I am just trying to gauge if I am overly paranoid. New car jitters?With changing one’s own oil, there comes a sense of accomplishment. Plus you know the exact filter, oil, etc that went into the job. Yes it is a dirty job. BTW, what is Eric’s slogan?
[quote=”McWicked” post=112044]As far as it being more difficult to do on newer cars, it really depends on the car. Unfortunately a lot of automakers are moving towards installing “maintenance required” or “oil monitoring” idiot lights to the console. So sure, you can physically change the oil, but if you don’t have a scan tool than can reset the light… you’re S.O.L.[/quote]
One could probably rent that at autozone. No big deal either way. I remember people freaking out about OBDII when it first came out. Plus a lot of times you can reset maintenance lights by buttons on the dash.
Besides, a DIY’er relies on mileage to know when to do maintenance, not some silly light.
Much like the old days, if someone is often negligent of car maintenance, a light on the dash probably won’t help them anyways.With changing one’s own oil, there comes a sense of accomplishment. Plus you know the exact filter, oil, etc that went into the job. Yes it is a dirty job. BTW, what is Eric’s slogan?
[quote=”McWicked” post=112044]As far as it being more difficult to do on newer cars, it really depends on the car. Unfortunately a lot of automakers are moving towards installing “maintenance required” or “oil monitoring” idiot lights to the console. So sure, you can physically change the oil, but if you don’t have a scan tool than can reset the light… you’re S.O.L.[/quote]
One could probably rent that at autozone. No big deal either way. I remember people freaking out about OBDII when it first came out. Plus a lot of times you can reset maintenance lights by buttons on the dash.
Besides, a DIY’er relies on mileage to know when to do maintenance, not some silly light.
Much like the old days, if someone is often negligent of car maintenance, a light on the dash probably won’t help them anyways.Those wheel and tire cleaners are a rip-off. You can get as good a results with some good dish washing soap (Palmolive or Dawn), a sponge or sturdy rag, and some elbow grease.
For the really harsh crap on the wheels, I have carefully scraped it off with a razor (careful not to nick the finish).Now here is one I recommend exercising MUCH caution with but if you have a lot of brake crap or whatever on the wheels that is stubborn, “The Works” toilet bowl cleaner on a rag (and elbow grease) gets it. Wear GOOD rubber gloves for that, not the thin latex. Toilet bowl cleaner is acid based but should not hurt the finish. Do this at your own risk.
wheel cleaner on rotors – any water based liquid on rotors will cause a little rust and the first time you apply brakes it will break the rust off, kind of like after a good rain. You need not worry.
Tire shine – Just get one of those tire shine sponges from the parts store ($3 tops) and spray the tire shine to it THEN work the sponge around the wheels.
Other car cleaning chemicals – pretty much all of them are horribly overpriced. What you are paying for is the awesome looking labels.So yes tire and wheel cleaners ARE bad. After using them, you will notice a gouge in your wallet. A gouge that could have been a mere scuff.
Those wheel and tire cleaners are a rip-off. You can get as good a results with some good dish washing soap (Palmolive or Dawn), a sponge or sturdy rag, and some elbow grease.
For the really harsh crap on the wheels, I have carefully scraped it off with a razor (careful not to nick the finish).Now here is one I recommend exercising MUCH caution with but if you have a lot of brake crap or whatever on the wheels that is stubborn, “The Works” toilet bowl cleaner on a rag (and elbow grease) gets it. Wear GOOD rubber gloves for that, not the thin latex. Toilet bowl cleaner is acid based but should not hurt the finish. Do this at your own risk.
wheel cleaner on rotors – any water based liquid on rotors will cause a little rust and the first time you apply brakes it will break the rust off, kind of like after a good rain. You need not worry.
Tire shine – Just get one of those tire shine sponges from the parts store ($3 tops) and spray the tire shine to it THEN work the sponge around the wheels.
Other car cleaning chemicals – pretty much all of them are horribly overpriced. What you are paying for is the awesome looking labels.So yes tire and wheel cleaners ARE bad. After using them, you will notice a gouge in your wallet. A gouge that could have been a mere scuff.
Rebuilds tend to range from $800 (VERY best case) to about $3,000.
$1489 sounds about right. And the torque converter – Yeah just let them replace it. It is probably partially clogged with crap that fell apart in the bad trans.
It is kind of for the same reason you would go ahead and put on a new timing belt if you had to change head gaskets on an overhead cam engine.