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Maybe in the descript say, “Will not work with other makes”.
What is scary though is what happens when they decide to buy a wiring kit?
A stereo mounting kit MIGHT be modifiable to work in other cars, maybe. Makes more sense though to just spend the SAME money to get one for a Chevy/Toyota/whatever. Wiring is not so forgiving. maybe they should leave the job to a pro.
What might confuse people is the fact that a very few car parts are interchangeable even among different makes. Or how parts within a parent company are often one and the same (like how Ford Contour and Mercury Mistake, er, Mystique use many of the same parts)
With “tail light fluid”, is it possible someone was thinking “dielectric grease” for the bulb installation? Could happen.
I am assuming life must be really painful for people who have to drive older cars but know nothing about them. I mean a mechanic shop will charge an arm and a leg for even simple work.
No big deal. Buy a new filter. problem solved.
One thing to avoid is cheapo oil filters like Fram.Also when installing a new filter, make sure the old gasket isn’t stuck to the engine. The new filter has it’s own built-in gasket (rubber O-ring) and having two on there would invite a leak. Also make sure to clean around the area where the filter meets the engine and even some around that so no little pieces of dirt fall in while installing the new filter.
Not sure if this is the “right” thing to do but I always rub a tiny amount of oil onto the new filter O-ring before installation so it is a bit easier to remove next time.
When you tighten the new one, do not use anything but your hand to tighten. Just snugging it like 1/4 turn once resistance is felt.
Well, the news is not good here.
First thing you can do is draw some fluid out to inspect. If it is pitch black, the trans is history.
You could try changing the fluid just to see if it helps but if it’s already black, new fluid would just be pouring your money down the drain. At this point it can’t really get any worse.The problem with automatics is that when they have signs of serious slippage, your only real options are either a rebuild or pass the car to the next lucky owner.
You could take it to a shop for diagnostics in hopes maybe something electrical but do not be surprised when they say it needs to come out for an internal inspection.
The new car smell hasn’t even worn off yet and already the brakes are acting stupid?
Keep an eye out for recalls.
Is there a possibility that things are just “breaking in”?Unless you WANT to install your own rotors, just let the stealership deal with it. Also I am not sure if this is the case but if your accord has captive rotors, that is a lot of work to replace. Not like normal rotors where you pull off the caliper bracket and the rotors pretty much just fall off.
Was this a sudden thing? Has it gotten worse? Did you use real cheap generic gas at the last fill-up? SOMEtimes this can cause poor idle. One of those things that may require some diagnostics.
Here are some things to check, in order of ease –
Have autozone or someone pull the codes. Codes don’t really give too much info but it is good to have them to get SOME general direction. Is the check engine light even on?
Inspect all vacuum lines. Typically the leaky parts are gonna be where they connect to something or other stress points like if they are strapped to anything. Do not forget the vacuul hose to the brake booster and hoses to the cruise control IF there is a vacuum line attached.
Inspect electrical wiring and connections.Make sure the air filter is not too nasty. Not likely the culprit but just to eliminate it. Inspect the intake hose and the connections.
Clean the throttle body. During which, open it to clean inside and out best you can, especially the plate. Clean where the idle air enters the intake.
IAC valve. Could try cleaning it. Unless you want to snag a cheap one from a junk yard, don’t just go replacing it right away.Make sure the ignition wires are in good shape, including connectors. make sure the plugs are in good shape. check the posts on the distributor or coils to make sure they are not corroded. Maybe not likely cause if that were the case, it would run badly thru all RPM ranges.
Some of the above things are more “wishful thinking” type checks than realistic possibilities BUT at least they are easy and can be eliminated as culprits. Plus at least you can know you did those maintenance measures.
Like Fopeano said – we might be leaning mostly towards a vacuum leak. If the hoses are good, there may be an intake gasket leak. intake leaks start off as rough or otherwise unstable idle but tend to progress to where it runs bad all the time.
Doing intake gaskets is not a bad job. A little hassle but on a 4 cylinder, you can likely do the job if you have any level of mechanical knowledge.
The average is this – two years. 12 cars came and went in 24 years of driving. My most recent car I have had less than two months so I do not count it but it is car #13.
Time of ownership ranges from less than a year to about four years. Reasons for ridding them vary. Couple times i needed the cash, a couple of them had a bad transmission, and a couple of them just got to be more hassle than what I could deal with.
For how much I paid – a few of them I paid a lot for, a few of them I just bought them cheap to fix and drive around a little while.The good thing about buying junkers to fix and drive around is this –
It is not a huge loss when they finally crap out beyond reasonable repair. I actually owned a few junkers where I would buy them, fix them, drive them for a while, then sell them for about what I had wrapped up in it. So aside gas, insurance, and normal maintenance, they would end up costing me nothing to own (except getting my hands dirty)If you take it to a shop, they are going to need to tear it down to inspect all components.
LAst time it was rebuilt, did a shop do it or did you do it?
When you said about looking at the insides, did you do stuff like tear down the clutch packs etc?ANYways, one thing you can do if you are to rebuild this yourself is google ATSG 5R55W and they have tech manuals for this and about any transmission.
ATSG manuals look a little skimpy since they are about the size of a news stand magazine but they are PACKED with solid info
Also, not knowing much (or anything) about the 5R55W, I can only speculate here but a guess would be – forward clutch pack is either not engaging due to bad seals on the piston OR the clutch pack itself is completely toast. On many units out there, has reverse but no forward gears is not unusual. The forward clutches engage in all forward gears but disengage in reverse (while other band(s)/clutches engage).
One last thing – if you are going to rebuilt it yourself, make sure to find out if there are any valve body mods that need to be done and if they were done at the last rebuild. Valve bodies are often where people run into problems because of several small parts, check balls hard to relocate if they fall out due to negligent disassembly methods, and other weird crap.
https://www.openbay.com/maintenance/1997-honda-cr-v – Just adjust the slider to different mileages to see what should be done. Assuming you do not know for sure, just play around with it.
Typically, the maintenance schedules for most cars is going to be similar. The maintenance will just be different intervals.Oil changes is number one. Other things are – the rest of the fluids, filters, tire condition/pressure, brakes, wheel bearings, struts/shocks, ball joints, tie rods, drive shafts (rubber boots tend to wear out and crack), motor mounts (may or may not be a problem depending…) vacuum hoses, PCV valve (easy on some, PITA on others)
200 is just about the life of most cars.
Yes you CAN keep it on the road as long as you want but the question is – how much are you willing to spend in repairs?Eventually you start running into serious crap like when the transmission needs rebuilt setting you back almost $3,000 (they eventually do wear out) or when things start to rust out really bad, engine wears and starts burning/leaking more oil, interior starts looking like a homeless guy’s clothes…
Sometimes you hear, “I have 300,000 on my car” but it may not be on the first engine or trans.
If your car is still running strong, of course hang onto it. Just keep in mind that when real problems come up (despite your best maintenance efforts) it may come a day when you have to decide if you really want to keep fixing it.
Just throwing this out there but is there a chance the catalytic converter is partially clogged?
Check out the IAC first (since that is the easier thing to try)
For the cat though, I do not know how to test it other than disconnecting the exhaust right after the manifold, but of course the bolts WILL break in the process of removal.
In front, I put the jack stands under the subframe. Yes it is more of a pain to raise the car more but if I have to get under the car, I need room to work anyways.
I really would not trust the pinch welds to support the car.
Keep in mind that however you support the car if you are crawling under it, you are literally trusting your life to whatever method you use to support the car.
I will not trust my life to the pinch welds. Jacking it up is one thing cause if something gives and you are not under the car, the worst that will happen is you will crap your pants if something falls.Oh also as you know – NEVER trust the jack alone to support the car. People have ended up in caskets by doing that.
It is bad enough when you have a known fluid leak and wondering if it is truly a fire hazard.
It would be a complete nightmare if your ride was parked in the garage and just decided to burst into flames like in the middle of the night.
Kitchen is clean, kids got their asses beat so they finally go to bed after telling them the umpteenth time, house is locked up, time for mom and dad to “get their motors running” but what is that burning smell?
I mean crap, talk about a reason to NEVER want to buy from that car company again.I imagine Ford fanatics long for the days when the biggest worry was the transmission eating it’s own gear train alive.
When a bearing is replaced, the trick is to hope, REALLY hope, that it doesn’t fall out. You have to hope so hard it hurts.
Wait, no, that level of hope is when you felt something weird in a Ford Taurus transmission (don’t get me started) and HOPING it was a fluke or something else.OK so onto the serious parts –
The bearings are not just pressed in 1/2 ass. They are not going anywhere. Add to that – if it is a FWD and dealing with front wheels – there is likely a snap ring on either side of the bearing. Snap rings do not look like they would do much but they are STRONG.
Usually when you need a front bearing, trying to press the old one out and the new one in is not practical for a home mechanic. You just replace the hub.
In this case, the part on the far right, number 2 pointed to it.The point is – the bearings just working their way out is not something you really need to worry about. Even if they are going bad, the car would be undrivable before the bearing would ever fall out.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/supryze/2009-09-06_171201_1688191.gifNissan Juke is probably the most horrid monstrosity on 4 wheels I can imagine. Honestly, that thing is as ugly as maggot-covered roadkill.
Dishonorable mentions – Honda Element and Nissan Cube. They both remind me of an out-house on wheels. They are just very goofy looking.
[quote=”Commodore665″ post=159133] But for me most Toyota’s are my least favorite , yes good cars , but they a like a plain sponge cake .[/quote]
I have a 95 Corolla. Light blue.
Toyota is very basic transportation. Especially my 95, it has NO style. I would not call it “ugly” but Toyota in general is the “Plain Jane” of the car world.Also, please do not insult crocs. It is well known that wearing crocs is the only form of birth control that is 100%
With the transmission –
Do not bother buying a used one unless you know it is good. Just getting one out of a junkyard car is not the answer.
The reason is because a bad transmission is often what lands a car in the junkyard to begin with, with the exception being cars that were wrecked and totaled out.Are you sure the sluggishness isn’t the trans acting up?
Here are a couple things that come to mind –
Are you SURE you got the correct bearings, races, and seals? Might have to really compare with the old stuff.Second, if it passes that test, maybe take the other side apart and really observe how things go together. The only risk with doing that is if you run into the same problem on the right side, you have doubled your problems.
Are you sure the new races are properly seated?
Post #11 on this thread has some suggestions.
http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/suspension-chassis/601679-front-wheel-bearings.html
