Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Solved. When I disconnected the right rear abs sensor, I noticed that one of the two wires on the plug was slightly pulled out. I wasn’t entirely sure if I had caused it when I pulled off the connector so I decided to diagnose and checked the sensor for resistance with a multimeter. It was reading something which led me to think the abs sensor may still be functioning… so I pushed the pin back and plugged it back into the harness. I reset the code. And voila no more codes. Drove about 15 miles today and no more lights.
Also I would have just replaced the sensor IF I could remove it without breaking it. Tried to free it but it’s pretty stuck. I don’t want to deal with pulling the hub either if it did break. This worked out thankfully.
Cheers.
Thank you so much Stilkus for the suggestion again. So we got the valve cover off so we could see the cam gears so we knew for sure which piston was in top dead center for the leakdown test. We turned the crank to get the 1 piston into TDC and it looked off by a tooth for the intake cam shaft but we ran the leak down test. We did it for each piston, and we did run into leaks and it did seem like valves may have been bent. But after we did that we decided that timing was off and we re-adjusted the timing and it looks SPOT on this time. We ran the leak down test again, and everything was very good and was within spec’s for the leakdown test. We got everything back together and after waiting for the gasket sealer to dry we started up the car and it runs perfect.
I was lucky that the internals didn’t get banged up or enough to where the car wouldn’t run well. Super happy and grateful. 🙂 🙂 🙂
[quote=”stilkus” post=148613]I would do a leak down test to check for the valves. your engine B18B1 is an interference type and would probably have bent the valves causing the rough idle you’re talking about.[/quote]
Thanks Stilkus, my friend and I will be doing a leakdown test on Thursday 10/8/15 and I’ll be updating this thread.