Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
600-700 sounds pretty cheap for that repair. it must not be at a shop. Not having AC in a hot climate is definitely a deal killer for a lot of potential buyers. I would look on craigslist to see what similar odysseys are going for, ones without mentioned problems. If they are going for 3000 or more, it might be worth spending 600 bucks. If they are selling for less than 2000, probably not worth it.
ive fixed and sold a ton of cars and work with people that do the same thing. What we have seen that as long as it runs, and its clean, you can almost always get 2000 out of it. Without the AC, you can still put whatever price you want to on it. They will try to talk you down anyway. So put 2500 or 3000 on it and if someone offers you 2000, take it, and good riddance.
600-700 sounds pretty cheap for that repair. it must not be at a shop. Not having AC in a hot climate is definitely a deal killer for a lot of potential buyers. I would look on craigslist to see what similar odysseys are going for, ones without mentioned problems. If they are going for 3000 or more, it might be worth spending 600 bucks. If they are selling for less than 2000, probably not worth it.
ive fixed and sold a ton of cars and work with people that do the same thing. What we have seen that as long as it runs, and its clean, you can almost always get 2000 out of it. Without the AC, you can still put whatever price you want to on it. They will try to talk you down anyway. So put 2500 or 3000 on it and if someone offers you 2000, take it, and good riddance.
No biggie but oil just at the bottom of the dipstick would indicate more like 1 quart or 1.5 low. And this is very normal for older Chevys. I get a rear main leak on a chevy come in to work at least once a week. What the others stated is absolutely right. If you are doing it yourself, clean the oil mess the best you can, so everything is dry. Start it up and let it run until you see fresh oil coming out. Dye isnt usually necessary but can help with more tricky leaks. On those trucks you can bet the rear main is leaking, and usually the oil pan too. Unless the oil pan stays bone dry after the mess has been cleaned, its usually a good idea to replace it if you are doing the rear main. Pop off the inspection plate and shine a light up onto the flex plate/flywheel. You can usually see a nice shiny coat of oil or even drips of oil, depending on how severe the leak. Removing the transmission on the ground is no fun and not easy for the first timer. If it is the rear main, paying some one to do it might be a good idea, if you are uncomfortable with it.
Also another common leak right there is the oil cooler block off plate. A super easy cheap gasket to replace which takes about 5 minutes, but obviously the whole oil mess needs to be clean first before you can verify the source of the leak.
All that being said, if you are only losing a quart in between oil changes, it may not even be worth the money if it is anything more than the block off plate.
No biggie but oil just at the bottom of the dipstick would indicate more like 1 quart or 1.5 low. And this is very normal for older Chevys. I get a rear main leak on a chevy come in to work at least once a week. What the others stated is absolutely right. If you are doing it yourself, clean the oil mess the best you can, so everything is dry. Start it up and let it run until you see fresh oil coming out. Dye isnt usually necessary but can help with more tricky leaks. On those trucks you can bet the rear main is leaking, and usually the oil pan too. Unless the oil pan stays bone dry after the mess has been cleaned, its usually a good idea to replace it if you are doing the rear main. Pop off the inspection plate and shine a light up onto the flex plate/flywheel. You can usually see a nice shiny coat of oil or even drips of oil, depending on how severe the leak. Removing the transmission on the ground is no fun and not easy for the first timer. If it is the rear main, paying some one to do it might be a good idea, if you are uncomfortable with it.
Also another common leak right there is the oil cooler block off plate. A super easy cheap gasket to replace which takes about 5 minutes, but obviously the whole oil mess needs to be clean first before you can verify the source of the leak.
All that being said, if you are only losing a quart in between oil changes, it may not even be worth the money if it is anything more than the block off plate.
[quote=”brokemechanic3000″ post=66018]I don’t know if this has been posted before but it annoys the hell out of me when women have 1 key on a dozen key chains.[/quote]
It’s not even always just women, but yeah when the keys weigh 5 pounds, but it’s just one key and a dozen worthless trinkets
[quote=”brokemechanic3000″ post=66018]I don’t know if this has been posted before but it annoys the hell out of me when women have 1 key on a dozen key chains.[/quote]
It’s not even always just women, but yeah when the keys weigh 5 pounds, but it’s just one key and a dozen worthless trinkets
The problem with waiting 100k miles to change auto tranny fluid is that it can be risky after that time. Which goes back full circle to manufacturers knowing things like this, and factoring that into their service intervals. Why replace the tranny fluid, when they can just buy a new car, because the cost to fix the transmission is just too high.
I have always used the “60.000 miles for the first auto trans fluid change, then every 30,000 after that.
If you wait 100,000 you should definitely not change the filter, and you may even want to throw in a bottle of friction modifiers…just to insure you don’t junk the tranny.
The problem with waiting 100k miles to change auto tranny fluid is that it can be risky after that time. Which goes back full circle to manufacturers knowing things like this, and factoring that into their service intervals. Why replace the tranny fluid, when they can just buy a new car, because the cost to fix the transmission is just too high.
I have always used the “60.000 miles for the first auto trans fluid change, then every 30,000 after that.
If you wait 100,000 you should definitely not change the filter, and you may even want to throw in a bottle of friction modifiers…just to insure you don’t junk the tranny.
yeah i think that some of what you feel is normal for that truck.
if it is in the design, maybe they just too much clearance at the pedal pushrod.
OR if there actually is a problem:
Maybe there is a weak rubber brake hose that is swelling under pressure.
If the pedal sinks slowly (which it doesn’t sound like from your description) master cylinder could be leaking internally.yeah i think that some of what you feel is normal for that truck.
if it is in the design, maybe they just too much clearance at the pedal pushrod.
OR if there actually is a problem:
Maybe there is a weak rubber brake hose that is swelling under pressure.
If the pedal sinks slowly (which it doesn’t sound like from your description) master cylinder could be leaking internally.yeah take the tests, you dont need 2 years to take a test, just to get the cert. you can still put the ase testing on your resume
yeah take the tests, you dont need 2 years to take a test, just to get the cert. you can still put the ase testing on your resume