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lol. only one of the 4 mentioned vehicles should even be a consideration. Dodge stratus and neons are probably 2 of the most unreliable POS’s on the road. Never ever buy one please, unless you love dumping money in to fix the problems. Ford focus is right up there with them, might even top them. I have seen days at work where we literally have 4 focuses in for various problems, on the same day.
Hyundai is only ok to buy if you a buy it new and keep it until the warranty runs out.
The civic is the way to go. At 150k miles you might expect to see leaking rack and pinion, various oil leaks, and stuff, but still reliable. And if the leaks have already been addressed by previous owner, even better.
Hondas and Toyotas are the way to go for reliability and gas mileage
lol. only one of the 4 mentioned vehicles should even be a consideration. Dodge stratus and neons are probably 2 of the most unreliable POS’s on the road. Never ever buy one please, unless you love dumping money in to fix the problems. Ford focus is right up there with them, might even top them. I have seen days at work where we literally have 4 focuses in for various problems, on the same day.
Hyundai is only ok to buy if you a buy it new and keep it until the warranty runs out.
The civic is the way to go. At 150k miles you might expect to see leaking rack and pinion, various oil leaks, and stuff, but still reliable. And if the leaks have already been addressed by previous owner, even better.
Hondas and Toyotas are the way to go for reliability and gas mileage
It sounds more like the release bearing making noise. Either way replacement of just the defective part is perfectly fine, and commonplace. Just needs to be at a reputable shop, preferably one that specializes in transmissions. Do your research on he shop and check Yelp for reviews.
It sounds more like the release bearing making noise. Either way replacement of just the defective part is perfectly fine, and commonplace. Just needs to be at a reputable shop, preferably one that specializes in transmissions. Do your research on he shop and check Yelp for reviews.
I believe that is a mitsubishi engine. Which arent really known for reliability. Noise is pretty common. OIl changes are vital. Without hearing the noise, its hard to say, but its usually top end noise or timing chain slap. Possibly worn tensioner or stretched chain.
If its running fine, and compression is good, I wouldnt really worry too much about it. Maybe have the chain checked for looseness, and if that is ok, just be consistent with oil changes. 3-4 thousand in between
I believe that is a mitsubishi engine. Which arent really known for reliability. Noise is pretty common. OIl changes are vital. Without hearing the noise, its hard to say, but its usually top end noise or timing chain slap. Possibly worn tensioner or stretched chain.
If its running fine, and compression is good, I wouldnt really worry too much about it. Maybe have the chain checked for looseness, and if that is ok, just be consistent with oil changes. 3-4 thousand in between
I wouldnt recommend using RP if it is consuming a lot of oil. If it is only a quart between changes maybe. BUT it will burn more RP than conventional. At 8-10 bucks a quart, is it worth it.
I had an old Jeep 4.0L that burned about 1 quart between changes. I switched to RP for about a year and it doubled the amount of oil it burned. About 2 quarts between changes. I did notice a slight increase in gas mileage, and overall power/performance. But probably not enough to justify the cost.
It really depends on ho much it burns, and whether or not the benefit is worth the cost.
RP is a great product but not necessarily ideal for every application.
I wouldnt recommend using RP if it is consuming a lot of oil. If it is only a quart between changes maybe. BUT it will burn more RP than conventional. At 8-10 bucks a quart, is it worth it.
I had an old Jeep 4.0L that burned about 1 quart between changes. I switched to RP for about a year and it doubled the amount of oil it burned. About 2 quarts between changes. I did notice a slight increase in gas mileage, and overall power/performance. But probably not enough to justify the cost.
It really depends on ho much it burns, and whether or not the benefit is worth the cost.
RP is a great product but not necessarily ideal for every application.
if you are doing this at home, go with the quick struts. It is so much easier and safer. With that many miles it will probably need mounts too, thats 60 bucks probably for the pair, plus the struts. It’s not really much more to get the quick struts.
Plus if you are doing this at home, you dont really want to mess with compressing the springs, Those things you clamp on are not safe, even with experience they can be scary.
Your option if you really want the lifetime warranty, is to just by the parts, then take the struts to a shop and have them, compress the springs and do the change over.
if you are doing this at home, go with the quick struts. It is so much easier and safer. With that many miles it will probably need mounts too, thats 60 bucks probably for the pair, plus the struts. It’s not really much more to get the quick struts.
Plus if you are doing this at home, you dont really want to mess with compressing the springs, Those things you clamp on are not safe, even with experience they can be scary.
Your option if you really want the lifetime warranty, is to just by the parts, then take the struts to a shop and have them, compress the springs and do the change over.
Could be an intake leak or head gasket/head issue. Is there coolant getting in that cylinder. If it’s not all the time could also be faulty parts. Try switching coils and spark plugs with a different cylinder to see if the misfire moves with it.
Could be an intake leak or head gasket/head issue. Is there coolant getting in that cylinder. If it’s not all the time could also be faulty parts. Try switching coils and spark plugs with a different cylinder to see if the misfire moves with it.
sounds mechanical like in the brake pedal assembly. Unbolting the master cylinder as one person stated may not be a bad idea, but it may not be necessary. When i get these noises at work the first thing I do is take a can of white lithium grease and start spraying around the brake pedal assembly, and around the pushrod and firewall grommet. That will usually lessen the noise and give you a better idea of what is actually squeaking
sounds mechanical like in the brake pedal assembly. Unbolting the master cylinder as one person stated may not be a bad idea, but it may not be necessary. When i get these noises at work the first thing I do is take a can of white lithium grease and start spraying around the brake pedal assembly, and around the pushrod and firewall grommet. That will usually lessen the noise and give you a better idea of what is actually squeaking