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i just want to reply to what i just said
one of the other techs was telling me that at some of the dealerships he’s worked at, the highest paid techs were at $25 flag, but the average was 16-20. they get a lot more hours though.
i think it really depends on the area you’re in, and whether or not it’s an independent shop or dealership.
Lexus here doesn’t pay much of anything for an experienced tech, but they may flag 60 hours a week, so I guess it’s hard to say what the average might be.
I do know that over the last 10 years or so, pay rates have gone down, and shop rates have gone way up
i just want to reply to what i just said
one of the other techs was telling me that at some of the dealerships he’s worked at, the highest paid techs were at $25 flag, but the average was 16-20. they get a lot more hours though.
i think it really depends on the area you’re in, and whether or not it’s an independent shop or dealership.
Lexus here doesn’t pay much of anything for an experienced tech, but they may flag 60 hours a week, so I guess it’s hard to say what the average might be.
I do know that over the last 10 years or so, pay rates have gone down, and shop rates have gone way up
this is true. thats how they make they’re money. we get a pretty good discount from all the places we order parts from, but the average markup is about 80%
this is true. thats how they make they’re money. we get a pretty good discount from all the places we order parts from, but the average markup is about 80%
at the shop I work at in austin, tx we dont have a tech making less than $21 flag hour. The most experienced tech is making $32 i believe. We have a base pay (20), then $1 per flag hour for every ASE cert you have, and periodic raises for longevity and hard work.
even the service writers and GSTs make about 10 per hour PLUS $10 flag and a dollar raise for every ASE cert
at the shop I work at in austin, tx we dont have a tech making less than $21 flag hour. The most experienced tech is making $32 i believe. We have a base pay (20), then $1 per flag hour for every ASE cert you have, and periodic raises for longevity and hard work.
even the service writers and GSTs make about 10 per hour PLUS $10 flag and a dollar raise for every ASE cert
yeah, i feel bad for him having to crawl around on the ground all the time, maybe if he started a lift fund, like a paypal donate thing, and everyone that follows him sent a couple bucks he could get one. i would donate a couple bucks if he would use it to get a lift installed
yeah, i feel bad for him having to crawl around on the ground all the time, maybe if he started a lift fund, like a paypal donate thing, and everyone that follows him sent a couple bucks he could get one. i would donate a couple bucks if he would use it to get a lift installed
use gorilla tape if you can get to the hose. this will seal the leak until you can get the manifold off. as far as removal goes. look at any four cylinder intake removal. remove what components you have to, and remove the bolts/nuts that hold the intake on. replace the intake seals/gasket. tighten in recommended sequence
use gorilla tape if you can get to the hose. this will seal the leak until you can get the manifold off. as far as removal goes. look at any four cylinder intake removal. remove what components you have to, and remove the bolts/nuts that hold the intake on. replace the intake seals/gasket. tighten in recommended sequence
they are good enough and reliable. Go with the v6. tranny fluid brand doesn’t matter. just use one that meets the specs required by ford. should be a dex3 or better on that trans. all newer fords will squeak due to sealed bushings. nothing can be lubed in the suspension. you may eventually see problems with the interior electronics/gauges and other various electronic issues. overall though they are pretty reliable in the ford department.
sidenote: the interior and interior electronics are cheaply made…
they are good enough and reliable. Go with the v6. tranny fluid brand doesn’t matter. just use one that meets the specs required by ford. should be a dex3 or better on that trans. all newer fords will squeak due to sealed bushings. nothing can be lubed in the suspension. you may eventually see problems with the interior electronics/gauges and other various electronic issues. overall though they are pretty reliable in the ford department.
sidenote: the interior and interior electronics are cheaply made…
the alternator output test should be preformed around 2000 rpm for an accurate test. For a general voltage reg test, you should see around 14V at the battery when car is running. You should do voltage drop tests at all connections b4 condemning alternator.
really the best way to test for a DIYer is to go to NAPA or some auto parts store that tests the alternator for free, it will show the amperage output and you can compare it to what stock output is.
a charging output test though is pretty easy at home with a voltmeter, verify that you are getting 13.5 to 14.6 volts from generator. do voltage drops tests to make sure all volts getting to battery
the alternator output test should be preformed around 2000 rpm for an accurate test. For a general voltage reg test, you should see around 14V at the battery when car is running. You should do voltage drop tests at all connections b4 condemning alternator.
really the best way to test for a DIYer is to go to NAPA or some auto parts store that tests the alternator for free, it will show the amperage output and you can compare it to what stock output is.
a charging output test though is pretty easy at home with a voltmeter, verify that you are getting 13.5 to 14.6 volts from generator. do voltage drops tests to make sure all volts getting to battery