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hyundais and kias have issues with the evap system getting clogged with carbon pellets. A lot of time you can pull the evap canister down and try and pour out whatever pellets you can. This usually only affects the ease of filling up the tank, but its worth a shot and free, if it fixes it
hyundais and kias have issues with the evap system getting clogged with carbon pellets. A lot of time you can pull the evap canister down and try and pour out whatever pellets you can. This usually only affects the ease of filling up the tank, but its worth a shot and free, if it fixes it
well you said you followed the wires to the rear of the truck. Maybe it goes to the fuel pump. You should be able to turn the key with out starting it, and hear the fuel pump buzz. You may need a buddy to turn the key if it is loud out and you cant hear. If you dont hear the buzz for a few seconds, then either the pump is bad, or it’s not getting voltage. If that cut wiring does in fact go to the fuel pump, look around the gas tank for dangling wires. Try to feel /see the wires coming off the top of the tank.
Regardless of whether or not this mysterious relay has anything to do with the no start, in any crank no start you need to verify fuel, ignition, and compression. The first two are fairly simple to do with no special tools. Check the basics first
well you said you followed the wires to the rear of the truck. Maybe it goes to the fuel pump. You should be able to turn the key with out starting it, and hear the fuel pump buzz. You may need a buddy to turn the key if it is loud out and you cant hear. If you dont hear the buzz for a few seconds, then either the pump is bad, or it’s not getting voltage. If that cut wiring does in fact go to the fuel pump, look around the gas tank for dangling wires. Try to feel /see the wires coming off the top of the tank.
Regardless of whether or not this mysterious relay has anything to do with the no start, in any crank no start you need to verify fuel, ignition, and compression. The first two are fairly simple to do with no special tools. Check the basics first
does it crank and not start, or no crank either? if no crank, then to starter most likely. if crank but no start then to fuel or ignition.
the relay looks fishy anyway like non factory. the mounting location is abnormal for OEM. If the cut wires are in fact what is causing the no start then this relay is wired in to the starting system.
So crank no start, or no crank?
does it crank and not start, or no crank either? if no crank, then to starter most likely. if crank but no start then to fuel or ignition.
the relay looks fishy anyway like non factory. the mounting location is abnormal for OEM. If the cut wires are in fact what is causing the no start then this relay is wired in to the starting system.
So crank no start, or no crank?
You are in luck that that is one of the easiest and most straight forward intakes to remove. Being inexperienced, you should definitely label all the wires and mark the distributor cap/rotor etc.
Mark the cap in relationship to the distributor. Mark the distrib in relationship to the firewall, and mark the rotor in relationship to the intake. This is the easiest way.
I wouldnt worry about the throttle body unless you have other issues you didnt mention. Coolant does not run through that throttle body. You actually shouldnt have to even remove the throttle body from the intake, just remove all as an assembly.
Remove the intake bolts in sequence if there is one and torque/tighten them in sequence upon reinstall.
Other than that, put RTV in the proper places, usually shown in the gasket kit, but you can look it up too. Make sure you toque to spec and use the correct sequence. Then fill and bleed the system.
Even for your first time, is should not be hard, just time consuming labeling everything and taking your time.
Any jiffy lube will take used fluids.
You are in luck that that is one of the easiest and most straight forward intakes to remove. Being inexperienced, you should definitely label all the wires and mark the distributor cap/rotor etc.
Mark the cap in relationship to the distributor. Mark the distrib in relationship to the firewall, and mark the rotor in relationship to the intake. This is the easiest way.
I wouldnt worry about the throttle body unless you have other issues you didnt mention. Coolant does not run through that throttle body. You actually shouldnt have to even remove the throttle body from the intake, just remove all as an assembly.
Remove the intake bolts in sequence if there is one and torque/tighten them in sequence upon reinstall.
Other than that, put RTV in the proper places, usually shown in the gasket kit, but you can look it up too. Make sure you toque to spec and use the correct sequence. Then fill and bleed the system.
Even for your first time, is should not be hard, just time consuming labeling everything and taking your time.
Any jiffy lube will take used fluids.
New techs dont typically get pain flat rate. Usually hourly only. Some places will pay hourly plus flag, which can be decent if the shop is busy and you are relatively fast.
flat rate or flag hour is straight commission. You get your pay rate for every “book time” hour you flag. IF it pays 3.7 you get 3.7 times your hourly rate even if it takes you 5 hours.
So yeah less experienced techs or new techs to a shop could potentially starve. Dealerships sometimes starve techs they dont like and give all the gravy to others so I hear. It can be a frustrating pay system depending on where you work
New techs dont typically get pain flat rate. Usually hourly only. Some places will pay hourly plus flag, which can be decent if the shop is busy and you are relatively fast.
flat rate or flag hour is straight commission. You get your pay rate for every “book time” hour you flag. IF it pays 3.7 you get 3.7 times your hourly rate even if it takes you 5 hours.
So yeah less experienced techs or new techs to a shop could potentially starve. Dealerships sometimes starve techs they dont like and give all the gravy to others so I hear. It can be a frustrating pay system depending on where you work
a wiring diagram would be helpful, but it looks actually more like an afermarket relay kit. Like one would install for say fog lights or something. obviously without tracing the wires or getting a wire diagram youre only guessing. But it does not look factory.
a wiring diagram would be helpful, but it looks actually more like an afermarket relay kit. Like one would install for say fog lights or something. obviously without tracing the wires or getting a wire diagram youre only guessing. But it does not look factory.
I wouldnt go to a tire shop. Do a lube shop if you have to. Tire work doesnt help in a real shop. The ideal place would be a full service repair center. If you can start off as a lube tech and move your way up…or leave when you have to for a better position. I started off as a lube tech and have worked for many shops after that. If you find the right place, they will teach you things and encourage you to grow. If not, then move on when the opportunity arises.
Just dont do tires (only) if you want to grow in the industry. A real shop will look at that as essentially no experience. At least with a lube shop, you have more credible experience.
Do the lube tech thing for awhile, then move to maybe a entry level mechanic at like a pep boys or dealership if you have to. Then move on to better things. Grow your tool collection as much as possible in that time so that when you feel your ready to make the next step you will have the tools to back it up.
I wouldnt go to a tire shop. Do a lube shop if you have to. Tire work doesnt help in a real shop. The ideal place would be a full service repair center. If you can start off as a lube tech and move your way up…or leave when you have to for a better position. I started off as a lube tech and have worked for many shops after that. If you find the right place, they will teach you things and encourage you to grow. If not, then move on when the opportunity arises.
Just dont do tires (only) if you want to grow in the industry. A real shop will look at that as essentially no experience. At least with a lube shop, you have more credible experience.
Do the lube tech thing for awhile, then move to maybe a entry level mechanic at like a pep boys or dealership if you have to. Then move on to better things. Grow your tool collection as much as possible in that time so that when you feel your ready to make the next step you will have the tools to back it up.