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a lot of people tell me to drop my engine and go with a “B” series engine, but i don’t have the 1899 that hmotors is selling them for. The guy that has done what I want to do is getting the same horse power for the “D” series engine that the “B” are getting. He did it for the roughly the same price. People just don’t believe in them. My problem is that i don’t know what parts he used exactly and he won’t respond to my pm or emails. So i need so good guiedence on this if someone would be so kind to help a noob out.
Ok, so here is my question If i bore my engine .002 which is 20,000 thousandsths that adds .5 mm to my bore? If so that changes my 75mm t0 a 75.5 does that change the stroke? If so how would that change it? Stock rod length is 134mm Compression is 9.2:1 bore is 75mm and stroke is 84.5mm so if I change that what about the compression?
Ok, I know there is a lot of Honda people out there but i can’t seem to get anyone to respond like I do on this website. I have a Honda Civic DX 1.5 it has the D15B2 engine in it. What I am trying to accomplish is this: Ensure the block does not need to be “trued” if so accomplish same. Bore block out 20-30 depending on my options. Have the Cam redone ( was told it was one of the better cams to have.) Have the block cleaned up oil gulleys and all some places here don’t do that. Put a MSD igniton, distributor cap and rotor on 8.5mm spark plug wires and the new plugs (reconmended through that site. Have a Skunk2 Intake manifold, Throtle body, cam gear, and pulleys. Pistons by JE ( here is the question what size pistons?) A DE Header. Koyo radiator and hoses, ACT Flywheel, ACT clutch, ACT Water Pump, Dual fans. I am not racing it just some pep in my step if you will If this is a bad setup please let me know or if you know some where for me to find more info other than honda-tech.com (— no help. Thanks for any and all replys.
Well,
I would like to thank all that was involved in this problem shooting. Come to find out that the person that installed the new timing belt on the car before the boy bought it before me had broke the gear. They rigged the part on to some how and when i went to check it out the just fell off. That was problem one next problem when i actually just broke it down the cam was seized up by the number 4 cylinder. This is from the boy i bought it from just driving it into the ground and not caring. When i had turned it over I can only imagine what damage it done. My new thing is the block is good i don’t care to rebuild it, but can i get some power out of a “D” series engine I have heard of people rebuilding them and doing some mods and getting about 150 out of them with very lil to do other than the rebuild part. Does any one have any suggestions I am not wanting to race it just have some good pep in its step. Well everyone thank you for the help have a good night.ok installed a new distributor and tried to start it no spark at plug so i went to the coil nothing there so i checked for voltage and again nothing its not the timing belt it is fine and turns over good I checked the grounds all were good rechecked fuses all good could it be a relay from the ignition switch or could it be the ignition switch the blue and white wire not sending the signal to the coil to fire up
the ground is good but like i was saying don’t the blue and white wire from the ignition switch give power to the coil if so how do i test it
i had a buddy send me the way they were suppose to be hooked up and it is correct i am puzzled really
ok the timing belt was good the ignition module was good the coil is new and still no spark could the ignition switch be bad or the comp itself even though the comp lights comes on and then goes off and doesn not flash any codes? I’m lost again
ok i also forgot to mark the wires go on the ignition control module so if someone can’t help with that one it is a 1990 honda civic dx 1.5 i would be very appreciative
ok the wires previous stated to to the clutch just have to figure how to put them back like they were now the test for the ignition to see if the switch is bad so i am testing the blue/white wire at the ignition to see if i am getting 12v if i am doing this wrong please let me know
I do have some good points if you guys ever need anything i do own a business so please let me know if i can help you plus i am military so i can pull strings to well time to tell if it is a distributor or the belt
I took the ignitor off of the side of the engine to trace the wires back and they are fine up to the fuse block under the hood all the fuses under the hood are good and then it goes into the fire wall where the computer seems to be then i guess it goes to the fuse block under the dash? I am not good with diagrams I can do what i’m told but other than that baby steps really I don’t know where many things are or how to test them but i do appreciate all the help