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Another thing to look at is the miles on the engine the cylinder walls if you are going to go through the trouble to pull the head off and replace it I would put new pistons if needed new rings for sure. if the block needs to be trued milled/decked cleaned maybe i would have it done. Also gives you a chance to maybe put a bigger piston in for more compression. I had my crank polished replaced the main and rod bearings. Just a suggestion and there is a oil guide inbetween the 2 and 3 cylinder that needs to be removed on some blocks not all but check the website that i told you earlier for pic by pic instructions. Removing that for the vtec to work. That here locally was roughly about 100 for bore milled/decked and cleaned just to give you a rough estimate but check your local shops. Another way of going is the head having it redone like a port and polish bigger cam in it . I hope i have helped open so light to this if you have any questions keep them coming
The only thing i am not sure is if the bolts are torque to yeild which means that you will go in stages to the desired torque but then at the end turn to an extra 90 degrees or so if it is like this then i would buy new head bolts.
OK yes you would have to have it out and you could take it to a shop and have them remove it but that could be pricey if you are turboing the car from my general knowledge is that turbo will actually lower the compression from what i have been taught. but why go this far and not make it right unless you don’t plan on having this car for long get what engine life you can get out of it. Another suggestion is that maybe change the Transmission from your model to a Si transmission it has a short shift. It took me like 3 hours to pull the engine out and tear down. to take to the machine shop
Another thing to look at is the miles on the engine the cylinder walls if you are going to go through the trouble to pull the head off and replace it I would put new pistons if needed new rings for sure. if the block needs to be trued milled/decked cleaned maybe i would have it done. Also gives you a chance to maybe put a bigger piston in for more compression. I had my crank polished replaced the main and rod bearings. Just a suggestion and there is a oil guide inbetween the 2 and 3 cylinder that needs to be removed on some blocks not all but check the website that i told you earlier for pic by pic instructions. Removing that for the vtec to work. That here locally was roughly about 100 for bore milled/decked and cleaned just to give you a rough estimate but check your local shops. Another way of going is the head having it redone like a port and polish bigger cam in it . I hope i have helped open so light to this if you have any questions keep them coming
OK yes you would have to have it out and you could take it to a shop and have them remove it but that could be pricey if you are turboing the car from my general knowledge is that turbo will actually lower the compression from what i have been taught. but why go this far and not make it right unless you don’t plan on having this car for long get what engine life you can get out of it. Another suggestion is that maybe change the Transmission from your model to a Si transmission it has a short shift. It took me like 3 hours to pull the engine out and tear down. to take to the machine shop
Well to piggy back on this discussion is to say maybe craigslist a lot of people are looking for a deal so try that out
I just finished the mini me minus the resistor box for the D15B2 from the forums i have used from http://www.honda-tech.com the mini me a lot of people don’t believe in it but those that do use the D16Z6 head that is it a lil more power than the Y8 that is just from what i read.
What list I was told was the D16Z6 head , and dizzy, the Y8 head gasget ( i used the z6, but was told y8it would raise compression a lil bit)
d16z6 timing belt
d16z6 intake manifold (preferred skunk2 intake)
fuel rail
could upgrade fuel injectors
B18 throttle boddy (or skunk2 68mm )
and cold air intake that it would go from 92whp to 150whp
becareful though a lot of forums say that the D series engines are only good for about 220hpI just finished the mini me minus the resistor box for the D15B2 from the forums i have used from http://www.honda-tech.com the mini me a lot of people don’t believe in it but those that do use the D16Z6 head that is it a lil more power than the Y8 that is just from what i read.
What list I was told was the D16Z6 head , and dizzy, the Y8 head gasget ( i used the z6, but was told y8it would raise compression a lil bit)
d16z6 timing belt
d16z6 intake manifold (preferred skunk2 intake)
fuel rail
could upgrade fuel injectors
B18 throttle boddy (or skunk2 68mm )
and cold air intake that it would go from 92whp to 150whp
becareful though a lot of forums say that the D series engines are only good for about 220hpYes, you are right it is for the injectors. Ok on the ecu how will i know if i have the high or low for the injectors? Test the plug? I have tried the honda forums but they all call me a newbie and tell me to use the “search” button. Well, I have and their is stories of both with good and bad outcomes for both. So what does that tell me; that they told someone to do the same because they themselves don’t know the answer and have led others to FAIL. So much for their title of honda God or whatever they called themselves. Mostly self proclaimed. I’ m sure. Well thanks for the help thus far.
Oh, and the D16z6 was for all the parts that followed after it so that others would get an idea of what parts i was using sorry for not really being specific.
Ok cool so what else am I missing
Can some one give me step by step on how to finish this? I have removed intake and exhaust manifold all electrical is set a side all hoses fan and radiator removed linkage is removed other than the motor mount brackets what has to be done and how to do it? I was told drive axels.
I paid to have it towed on to the base and just did it at the hoby shop. It took all of two minutes. but now i am getting ready to pull the engine i guess i need to pull the drive shafts can someone help me in directing me on how to do that step for step i know my tools and can follow directions pretty good just not sure on what to do.
I have had several stangs my first was a t72 mach 2 I enjoyed it but thanks dreamer
http://enginemaniac.blogspot.com/2009/11/my-d15b2-na-build.html?showComment=1318377933334#c373289234432221406
this build is similar to what i am talking about but what parts should i use to do the this? Is this person’s set up good? -
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