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I think that you might be right. Nissan made one not too long ago, and GM made a prototype hummer called the H2H before they went bankrupt. There is a guy in Arizona that claims to know how to safely store hydrogen in tanks using a material called hydride (apparently illegal because of it’s use in nuclear weapons). I think that the technology is out there, but the inevitable economic backlash is keeping it from rising up. Oil is big business, and a-lot of american jobs depend on it. But, I would have no problem converting my cars if there was a proven way to do it. So far all I have seen is some dudes in their garages making brown gas and lighting it like a big fart in chemistry class. I saw a youtube video of two guys driving a converted dodge ram, but they haven’t put anything up in a very long time.
I want to know if anybody has successfully done this and used it as an additive, or primary fuel source with any success for an extended period of time.
Also, any mechanics out there: what are the possible downsides to using hydrogen in a current internal combustion engine? Obviously moisture could be an issue. But what about explosion velocity (Brown gas is supposed to explode much faster than gasoline) could that damage rocker arms etc…? Combustion chambers?
Hypothetically, what would have to be done (if anything) to prepare an engine to run on HHO or Hydrogen fuel?
I think about being able to afford to run a big block engine, and it gives me the chills, and an ENORMOUS grin on my face. The true return of the muscle car.
I’m no expert, but I think that is true. I tried to take off a hub to help get the rotor of of a Mazda 6, (I’m not too bright at times…) After I took the spindle nut off, and re-tightened it, I was soon replacing the bearing.
I had to replace every ball joint on a Thunderbird that I just bought. I found that it was almost as cheap and a-lot easier just to buy a new lower control arm. You also have the added bonus of having new bushings etc… My lower control arms were about $50 each with new ball joints and bushings. Much easier than trying to replace just the joint.
I rebuilt the entire front suspension (minus the struts which were fine… go figure) for about $550. New upper and lower control arms, sway bar links, and inner and outer tie rods.
Now if I can just get it running right, I should be golden.
I cleaned the IAC a few weeks ago, and that tackled a larger fluctuation problem that I had. Now with the AC and Heat off it runs nice and steady. The problem only occurs when the Heating or cooling is on. It seems counter-intuitive to me but the idle jumps up around 300 rpm (600 to 900 in park, and 800 to 1100 in Drive gears) when the compressor kicks on. The compressor is cycling around every 5-10 seconds.
I have not ruled out a problem with the IAC since it was very dirty before I cleaned it. I tried smacking it with the screwdriver too with no change. I haven’t ruled out the possibility that I may have bad bearings in the compressor either. This car sat for a very long time and was ill maintained before I bought it (come to find out after the fact.) So it could be anything.
The battery voltage holds steady at 14 volts dc. The headlights dim when the compressor kicks on though. (could this be caused by a failing alternator?)
By the way…. thanks for the quick replies…. this forum is awesome.
I’ve found that the older guys tend to like the foxbodies a bit more than the younger generation. For me, these are THE mustangs. I had a 1986 for my first car. I was actually looking for another one, when I came across a 97 V8 T-bird with 68,000 miles. I thought it was a steal, after tearing into it though…. maybe not. Should have kept looking for a mustang.
But I agree that the interiors could have been a whole lot better. I guess you could go Chip Foose on one’s interior, and really make a fantastic car. You know some leather here, some fiberglass there, different seat and dash designs. It would be a-lot of work, but you would have the coolest mustang on the block.