Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Power balance seems normal. got a pretty good drop in RPM’s on every coil. Triple checked for vacuum leaks with a propane torch, and came up with nothing. I think I’m going to go to the parts store and get some new O2 sensors.
As far as the air intake manifold, I would believe it. That was on my list after the O2 sensors. I was going to take it off and put on new gaskets, and physically clean the injectors and put on new O-rings. I live in the desert and rubber rots quick here.
Would bad O2 sensors cause it to run rough?
no I wasn’t holding the throttle open. OOPS! might have to go rent that thing and try it again.
What I did do is replace the upstream O2 sensors. I didn’t do the downstream because I couldn’t locate enough of them locally, and the code was related to the upstream. Naturally the code went away when I disconnected the battery, I drove it for about 20 miles around town and a little on the highway, and the light didn’t come back on, but it’s still running as rough as ever. How long does it normally take for the computer to catch up to a new part?
Also, is there a way to check your mechanical timing without taking it down to the timing chain? I’m sure it’s about time for it to be changed anyway, so if I have to do that I will.
I thought there might be something off with my rental compression tester, so I tested my pickup (07 F150 also a 4.6L), and it only read 80 psi. And, that truck runs like a champ. The tester I’m using is just off.
that was my concern… to tell you the truth, this is the first compression test I’ve ever done. I’m pretty sure I did it right. I’m not sure if the valves are adjustable or not. Never fiddled with the valves on an OHC engine. I will look into that and try to figure that out. It’s not underpowered or anything, but you certainly don’t get the get up and go like that of a mustang GT. I always chalked it up the the tiny gears. Now I’m not so sure.
The battery is brand new, and pushing 14 volts. The O2 sensors were the next stop, but I don’t want to dump any more money into this car if the engine is toast. I may do it anyway. It only has one upstream and one downstream, and they’re fairly cheap (as long as you don’t get motorcraft.)
The plug looked just like the one in the back of a Hayne’s manual described as “ashy”. Fairly normal with a little bridge of carbonized ash under the electrode. The exhaust smells rich and kinda’ sweet, and occasionally spits bluish white smoke.
As far as the vehicle history is concerned. It has 80k miles on it, but it sat neglected for a very long time (guessing 4-7 years). I bought it not knowing this but figured it out after I started to tear into it.
Once again, I’m pretty darn sure that I did the compression test correctly, but I will watch Eric’s video again and try it again in the morning, just to make sure.
the car has 75,000 miles. (one of the reasons I bought it, but primarily because everyone else drives a mustang.) But, I think Eric might be on to something, A large part of the time it runs perfectly. It’s not really short much power, just has wimpy gears. I had wondered if it might be an ignition problem after I had posted this thread.
After I bought this car I started doing the normal stuff to it, and found the ORIGINAL spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, and transmission fluid from 1997. Could it be as simple as a bad coil pack or injector? (cleaning the injectors was on the to do list anyway.)
It is an INTERMITTENT miss. It just misses every 5-15 seconds at idle, and it really only happens after it’s warmed up. But, there is certainly not any tan crust on the plugs.
By the way, I greatly appreciate the help that I receive here. I’m sort of new to working on cars. I’ve always changed my oil, brakes, etc. But, diagnosing problems and things like that I’m fairly new at.
apparently the main thing about this ignition system (waste spark ignition) is that there is platinum on the cathode and the anode of the plug. This ignition changes the polarity on the exhaust stroke so it essentially fires backwards half of the time.
At this point I know the fouling spark plugs are a symptom not the cause. And for some reason the motorcraft double platimums are incredibly hard to find in my town.
clarification: If you put oil in a spray bottle and set it on mist. sprayed the end of the spark plug, and let it hang to dry for an hour and then came back to it. That’s kinda what it looked like. There was a bit of black carbon build up that was around the the circular part that is exposed with the rest of the plug as well. But it looked like a light coating of fresh, wet, greasy, brand new oil.
Some more information: also the plugs had a bit of light build up that I was told is a result of a vacuum leak that I can’t seem to find by any method. Also, I changed my oil today, at 2500 miles and it was just short of a half a quart low. (so it is certainly consuming oil somehow.) Also, most of the time I drive like a grandpa, however when I do get on it hard, I will get some smoke behind the car (nominal, not like a diesel truck or anything). No smoke on a cold start, or when I let off the gas though.
okay… it’s been a while but I finally tracked down the problem and it was a weird one. After a while of driving it like this, I developed a squeek from the engine bay. It wasn’t constant like a fan belt but more like a bearing problem. I took the belt off and the bearings in the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley were completely toasted. I replaced them, and a couple of days later the problem just went away….
Not what I expected, but may be something to keep in mind if you have someone else with this problem.
Yummy….. But at least you wouldn’t need catalytic converters. That rotten egg smell is pretty bad too. I think the ammonia might be worse though.
I’ve been trying to get out there to get this thing sorted. This car seems to be one thing after another though. Tonight I addressed another issue with the bearings on the idler pulley, and the tentioner pulley. I got a new bottle of propane for my torch, and am going to check for vacuum leaks in the morning. I have decided to attack this thing in financial order. Cheapest possible fix first.
I GREATLY appreciate the responses and suggestions in regards to this problem I’m having. I am quite sure that the solution has been presented in this thread. I just have to find the time to get out there and do the work, and the money to buy the parts if required. Regardless I will keep you all updated. I hope to get it sorted by days end tomorrow (but you know how those things tend to go.)
Yummy….. But at least you wouldn’t need catalytic converters. That rotten egg smell is pretty bad too. I think the ammonia might be worse though.
I think that you might be right. Nissan made one not too long ago, and GM made a prototype hummer called the H2H before they went bankrupt. There is a guy in Arizona that claims to know how to safely store hydrogen in tanks using a material called hydride (apparently illegal because of it’s use in nuclear weapons). I think that the technology is out there, but the inevitable economic backlash is keeping it from rising up. Oil is big business, and a-lot of american jobs depend on it. But, I would have no problem converting my cars if there was a proven way to do it. So far all I have seen is some dudes in their garages making brown gas and lighting it like a big fart in chemistry class. I saw a youtube video of two guys driving a converted dodge ram, but they haven’t put anything up in a very long time.
I want to know if anybody has successfully done this and used it as an additive, or primary fuel source with any success for an extended period of time.
Also, any mechanics out there: what are the possible downsides to using hydrogen in a current internal combustion engine? Obviously moisture could be an issue. But what about explosion velocity (Brown gas is supposed to explode much faster than gasoline) could that damage rocker arms etc…? Combustion chambers?
Hypothetically, what would have to be done (if anything) to prepare an engine to run on HHO or Hydrogen fuel?
I think about being able to afford to run a big block engine, and it gives me the chills, and an ENORMOUS grin on my face. The true return of the muscle car.