[Stephan]

It’s a ford, replace the engine! 😛

If you work for a repair and assembling shop i would always do it just to get sure. If the new gasket is not such expensive and the work is done easily on this engine i would give it a try if everything except the gasket looks fine.
On newer Engines with aluminium material or something like that in my expereince i would always do it.
The prices seems to be really low in your country for that work.
If i have to get it done at a real engine expert in Germany for our cars you never have to pay less than about 600 dollars.
If the damage is such big, that huge amount of material has to be removed, replace the whole cylinder head. Sometimes cheaper than replacing the engines 1 thousand miles later. Had this issue on my Ford Mondeo diesel engine and the whole cylinder head was curved :S (But completly different and new age crap engine like alls manufactureres build atm here to reduce weight, save fuel…)
For me your pictures look really bad and i would have it checked. The last picture looks like there is some kind of metal at the cylinder. I think you would have written it. Also the cylinders have to be replaced or at least redone. I would not use them in this condition.
Magic sealer or whatever its called is just crap until one exception you have a realy tiny leak to the outside and you just want to drive the car until death. The pressure is to high. In germany its also a dirty trick by carsellers but if you can find something like these chemicals in the engine and the seller did not tell you that he might needs good lawyers.

Two proverbs regarding this topic:
Never do things by halves.
Who buys cheap buys twice.

Good luck

[Stephan]

It’s a ford, replace the engine! 😛

If you work for a repair and assembling shop i would always do it just to get sure. If the new gasket is not such expensive and the work is done easily on this engine i would give it a try if everything except the gasket looks fine.
On newer Engines with aluminium material or something like that in my expereince i would always do it.
The prices seems to be really low in your country for that work.
If i have to get it done at a real engine expert in Germany for our cars you never have to pay less than about 600 dollars.
If the damage is such big, that huge amount of material has to be removed, replace the whole cylinder head. Sometimes cheaper than replacing the engines 1 thousand miles later. Had this issue on my Ford Mondeo diesel engine and the whole cylinder head was curved :S (But completly different and new age crap engine like alls manufactureres build atm here to reduce weight, save fuel…)
For me your pictures look really bad and i would have it checked. The last picture looks like there is some kind of metal at the cylinder. I think you would have written it. Also the cylinders have to be replaced or at least redone. I would not use them in this condition.
Magic sealer or whatever its called is just crap until one exception you have a realy tiny leak to the outside and you just want to drive the car until death. The pressure is to high. In germany its also a dirty trick by carsellers but if you can find something like these chemicals in the engine and the seller did not tell you that he might needs good lawyers.

Two proverbs regarding this topic:
Never do things by halves.
Who buys cheap buys twice.

Good luck

[Stephan]

OK, i fixed it.

Sry for my expression but i was extremly pissed. I removed the engine.
I went to a friend of mine at the bosch development center and the ignition modules were checked. The Lmm values were fine however the intake temperature was wrong. I got a new single sensor.
The Lamda sesnors were operating normal.
I used my soldering bolt and replaced the sensor (less than 30 cents). I deconstructed the throtle valve completely and changed the electric motor. The throttl valves were polished.

I cleaned the injection nozzles ultrasinic.

I deconstructed the whole air intake system, cleaned it, and resealed it.
As i had working space i serviced the alternator with new coals and ball bearing.

I replaced the hydraulic lifters. Not expensive and easy to change at this state.
The oil pan was dismantled, cleaned and sealed. The whole engine was flushed. The valves and valve seats (do not know the right word) were polished however they looked fine.
I cleared the characteristic diagram and fired it up. I LOVE IT banana:
Thats it how engines have to run.

I only had the wrong oil in my garage. Stupid 5w30 low-viscosity engine oil. Has to be replaced this week.
New liqui moly engine oil was ordered…
However its no problem at all and propaply good changing the oil after the flushing chemicals.

The problem itself was not discovered by me and thats annoying. Ill have to live with it :S
After the oil change youll find me at the german Autobahn 👿

Thank you for trying to help me.
After all the work I think the problem was a bit off any type which could be possible.

[Stephan]

OK, i fixed it.

Sry for my expression but i was extremly pissed. I removed the engine.
I went to a friend of mine at the bosch development center and the ignition modules were checked. The Lmm values were fine however the intake temperature was wrong. I got a new single sensor.
The Lamda sesnors were operating normal.
I used my soldering bolt and replaced the sensor (less than 30 cents). I deconstructed the throtle valve completely and changed the electric motor. The throttl valves were polished.

I cleaned the injection nozzles ultrasinic.

I deconstructed the whole air intake system, cleaned it, and resealed it.
As i had working space i serviced the alternator with new coals and ball bearing.

I replaced the hydraulic lifters. Not expensive and easy to change at this state.
The oil pan was dismantled, cleaned and sealed. The whole engine was flushed. The valves and valve seats (do not know the right word) were polished however they looked fine.
I cleared the characteristic diagram and fired it up. I LOVE IT banana:
Thats it how engines have to run.

I only had the wrong oil in my garage. Stupid 5w30 low-viscosity engine oil. Has to be replaced this week.
New liqui moly engine oil was ordered…
However its no problem at all and propaply good changing the oil after the flushing chemicals.

The problem itself was not discovered by me and thats annoying. Ill have to live with it :S
After the oil change youll find me at the german Autobahn 👿

Thank you for trying to help me.
After all the work I think the problem was a bit off any type which could be possible.

[Stephan]

Thank you for helping me with my problem.

I did what i was told to do. However the coolant sensor looks ok for me. The car was standing in my garage for about 48 hours. Measurement was taken at complete cold engine with only ignition on.

COLD ENGINE VALUES:

Mass Air Flow Sensor,1.02 V
Mass Air Flow Sensor,0 kg/h
Intake Air Temperature,30 °C
Intake Air Temperature,3.16 V
Knock Control,Inactive
Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve,Inactive
Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve,0 %

Measuring blocks information:

Battery Voltage,12.2 V
Engine Speed,0 RPM
Ambient Temperature,21 °C
Coolant Temperature,24 °C
Coolant Temperature,3.44 V
Intake Air Temperature,30 °C
Mass Air Flow Sensor,0 kg/h
Normal Engine Operating Temperature,Inactive
Fan Control 1,Inactive
Fan Control 2,Inactive
Fan Control 3,Inactive
Oil Level,Normal
Engine Oil Level Status,Okay
Oil Pressure,Underpressure
Engine Oil Change Warning,Inactive
Cruise Control,Inactive
Cruise Control Tip Switch,O (off)
Vehicle Speed in Cruise Control Range,Inactive
Vehicle Speed,0 km/h
Brake Switch 1,Inactive
Brake Switch 2,Inactive
Clutch Switch,Inactive
A/C Pressure (Air Conditioning),580 kPa
A/C Pressure (Air Conditioning),0.92 V
A/C Relay (Air Conditioning),Inactive
A/C Cutoff Mode (Air Conditioning),System OK
A/C Information Switch,Inactive
Malfunction Indicator (MI),On
Service Vehicle Soon (SVS) Indicator,Off
ETC Limp Home Mode (Electronic Throttle Control),Inactive
B1S1 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 1 Sensor 1),Rich
B1S2 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 1 Sensor 2),Lean
B2S1 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 2 Sensor 1),Rich
B2S2 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 2 Sensor 2),Lean

WARM ENGINE MEASUREMENT 1 directly after stop engine running idle:

Measuring blocks information:

Battery Voltage,14.0 V
Engine Speed,645 RPM
Ambient Temperature,16 °C
Coolant Temperature,93 °C
Coolant Temperature,0.92 V
Intake Air Temperature,30 °C
Mass Air Flow Sensor,10 kg/h
Normal Engine Operating Temperature,Active
Fan Control 1,Inactive
Fan Control 2,Inactive
Fan Control 3,Inactive
Oil Level,Normal
Engine Oil Level Status,Okay
Oil Pressure,Normal
Engine Oil Change Warning,Inactive
Cruise Control,Inactive
Cruise Control Tip Switch,O (off)
Vehicle Speed in Cruise Control Range,Inactive
Vehicle Speed,0 km/h
Brake Switch 1,Inactive
Brake Switch 2,Inactive
Clutch Switch,Inactive
A/C Pressure (Air Conditioning),640 kPa
A/C Pressure (Air Conditioning),1.00 V
A/C Relay (Air Conditioning),Inactive
A/C Cutoff Mode (Air Conditioning),System OK
A/C Information Switch,Inactive
Malfunction Indicator (MI),Off
Service Vehicle Soon (SVS) Indicator,Off
ETC Limp Home Mode (Electronic Throttle Control),Inactive
B1S1 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 1 Sensor 1),Rich
B1S2 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 1 Sensor 2),Lean
B2S1 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 2 Sensor 1),Lean
B2S2 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 2 Sensor 2),Lean

Measurement about 1 minute later engine running at idle speed:

Measuring blocks information:

Battery Voltage,13.9 V
Engine Speed,642 RPM
Ambient Temperature,16 °C
Coolant Temperature,94 °C
Coolant Temperature,0.90 V
Intake Air Temperature,30 °C
Mass Air Flow Sensor,11 kg/h
Normal Engine Operating Temperature,Active
Fan Control 1,Inactive
Fan Control 2,Inactive
Fan Control 3,Inactive
Oil Level,Normal
Engine Oil Level Status,Okay
Oil Pressure,Normal
Engine Oil Change Warning,Inactive
Cruise Control,Inactive
Cruise Control Tip Switch,O (off)
Vehicle Speed in Cruise Control Range,Inactive
Vehicle Speed,0 km/h
Brake Switch 1,Inactive
Brake Switch 2,Inactive
Clutch Switch,Inactive
A/C Pressure (Air Conditioning),640 kPa
A/C Pressure (Air Conditioning),1.00 V
A/C Relay (Air Conditioning),Inactive
A/C Cutoff Mode (Air Conditioning),System OK
A/C Information Switch,Inactive
Malfunction Indicator (MI),Off
Service Vehicle Soon (SVS) Indicator,Off
ETC Limp Home Mode (Electronic Throttle Control),Inactive
B1S1 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 1 Sensor 1),Lean
B1S2 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 1 Sensor 2),Lean
B2S1 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 2 Sensor 1),Rich
B2S2 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 2 Sensor 2),Lean

Injetor Timing (warm state):

Measuring blocks information:

Injector Time,4.1
Ignition Spark Angle,1.8 °CA
Ignition Dwell Time,4
Calculated Pedal Position,0 %
Calculated Throttle Position,1 %
Knock Retard Cylinder 1,0 °CA
Knock Retard Cylinder 2,0 °CA
Knock Retard Cylinder 3,0 °CA
Knock Retard Cylinder 4,0 °CA
Knock Retard Cylinder 5,0 °CA
Knock Retard Cylinder 6,0 °CA

Lamda sensors warm state:

Measuring blocks information:

B1S1 O2 Sensor Heater (Bank 1 Sensor 1),Active
B1S1 O2 Sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1),664 mV
B1S1 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 1 Sensor 1),Rich
B1 O2 Sensor Loop (Bank 1),Closed
B1S2 O2 Sensor Heater (Bank 1 Sensor 2),Active
B1S2 O2 Sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 2),703 mV
B1 Short Term Fuel Trim (Bank 1),-1 %
B2S1 O2 Sensor Heater (Bank 2 Sensor 1),Active
B2S1 O2 Sensor (Bank 2 Sensor 1),723 mV
B2S1 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 2 Sensor 1),Rich
B2 O2 Sensor Loop (Bank 2),Closed
B2S2 O2 Sensor Heater (Bank 2 Sensor 2),Active
B2S2 O2 Sensor (Bank 2 Sensor 2),742 mV
B2 Short Term Fuel Trim (Bank 2),0 %
Intake Manifold Valve 1,Inactive
Full Load Enrichment,Inactive
Catalyst Protection Mode,Inactive
Desired Engine Idle Speed,650 RPM
Idle Speed Modified,No
Idle Speed Offset,Inactive
Dec. Fuel Cutoff (Deceleration),Inactive
Vehicle Speed,0 km/h

again intake air and mass sensor about 3 Minutes later. Engine was idling in the garage.

Measuring blocks information:

Mass Air Flow Sensor,1.27 V
Mass Air Flow Sensor,11 kg/h
Intake Air Temperature,32 °C
Intake Air Temperature,3.03 V
Knock Control,Inactive
Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve,Active
Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve,18 %

For me the intake Temperature is stupid or wrong. But i do not have experience if 10 degrees wrong could cause such a difference at idle speed.
Opinions as usual welcome.

Hope my informations will help you.

[Stephan]

Thank you for helping me with my problem.

I did what i was told to do. However the coolant sensor looks ok for me. The car was standing in my garage for about 48 hours. Measurement was taken at complete cold engine with only ignition on.

COLD ENGINE VALUES:

Mass Air Flow Sensor,1.02 V
Mass Air Flow Sensor,0 kg/h
Intake Air Temperature,30 °C
Intake Air Temperature,3.16 V
Knock Control,Inactive
Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve,Inactive
Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve,0 %

Measuring blocks information:

Battery Voltage,12.2 V
Engine Speed,0 RPM
Ambient Temperature,21 °C
Coolant Temperature,24 °C
Coolant Temperature,3.44 V
Intake Air Temperature,30 °C
Mass Air Flow Sensor,0 kg/h
Normal Engine Operating Temperature,Inactive
Fan Control 1,Inactive
Fan Control 2,Inactive
Fan Control 3,Inactive
Oil Level,Normal
Engine Oil Level Status,Okay
Oil Pressure,Underpressure
Engine Oil Change Warning,Inactive
Cruise Control,Inactive
Cruise Control Tip Switch,O (off)
Vehicle Speed in Cruise Control Range,Inactive
Vehicle Speed,0 km/h
Brake Switch 1,Inactive
Brake Switch 2,Inactive
Clutch Switch,Inactive
A/C Pressure (Air Conditioning),580 kPa
A/C Pressure (Air Conditioning),0.92 V
A/C Relay (Air Conditioning),Inactive
A/C Cutoff Mode (Air Conditioning),System OK
A/C Information Switch,Inactive
Malfunction Indicator (MI),On
Service Vehicle Soon (SVS) Indicator,Off
ETC Limp Home Mode (Electronic Throttle Control),Inactive
B1S1 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 1 Sensor 1),Rich
B1S2 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 1 Sensor 2),Lean
B2S1 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 2 Sensor 1),Rich
B2S2 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 2 Sensor 2),Lean

WARM ENGINE MEASUREMENT 1 directly after stop engine running idle:

Measuring blocks information:

Battery Voltage,14.0 V
Engine Speed,645 RPM
Ambient Temperature,16 °C
Coolant Temperature,93 °C
Coolant Temperature,0.92 V
Intake Air Temperature,30 °C
Mass Air Flow Sensor,10 kg/h
Normal Engine Operating Temperature,Active
Fan Control 1,Inactive
Fan Control 2,Inactive
Fan Control 3,Inactive
Oil Level,Normal
Engine Oil Level Status,Okay
Oil Pressure,Normal
Engine Oil Change Warning,Inactive
Cruise Control,Inactive
Cruise Control Tip Switch,O (off)
Vehicle Speed in Cruise Control Range,Inactive
Vehicle Speed,0 km/h
Brake Switch 1,Inactive
Brake Switch 2,Inactive
Clutch Switch,Inactive
A/C Pressure (Air Conditioning),640 kPa
A/C Pressure (Air Conditioning),1.00 V
A/C Relay (Air Conditioning),Inactive
A/C Cutoff Mode (Air Conditioning),System OK
A/C Information Switch,Inactive
Malfunction Indicator (MI),Off
Service Vehicle Soon (SVS) Indicator,Off
ETC Limp Home Mode (Electronic Throttle Control),Inactive
B1S1 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 1 Sensor 1),Rich
B1S2 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 1 Sensor 2),Lean
B2S1 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 2 Sensor 1),Lean
B2S2 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 2 Sensor 2),Lean

Measurement about 1 minute later engine running at idle speed:

Measuring blocks information:

Battery Voltage,13.9 V
Engine Speed,642 RPM
Ambient Temperature,16 °C
Coolant Temperature,94 °C
Coolant Temperature,0.90 V
Intake Air Temperature,30 °C
Mass Air Flow Sensor,11 kg/h
Normal Engine Operating Temperature,Active
Fan Control 1,Inactive
Fan Control 2,Inactive
Fan Control 3,Inactive
Oil Level,Normal
Engine Oil Level Status,Okay
Oil Pressure,Normal
Engine Oil Change Warning,Inactive
Cruise Control,Inactive
Cruise Control Tip Switch,O (off)
Vehicle Speed in Cruise Control Range,Inactive
Vehicle Speed,0 km/h
Brake Switch 1,Inactive
Brake Switch 2,Inactive
Clutch Switch,Inactive
A/C Pressure (Air Conditioning),640 kPa
A/C Pressure (Air Conditioning),1.00 V
A/C Relay (Air Conditioning),Inactive
A/C Cutoff Mode (Air Conditioning),System OK
A/C Information Switch,Inactive
Malfunction Indicator (MI),Off
Service Vehicle Soon (SVS) Indicator,Off
ETC Limp Home Mode (Electronic Throttle Control),Inactive
B1S1 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 1 Sensor 1),Lean
B1S2 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 1 Sensor 2),Lean
B2S1 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 2 Sensor 1),Rich
B2S2 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 2 Sensor 2),Lean

Injetor Timing (warm state):

Measuring blocks information:

Injector Time,4.1
Ignition Spark Angle,1.8 °CA
Ignition Dwell Time,4
Calculated Pedal Position,0 %
Calculated Throttle Position,1 %
Knock Retard Cylinder 1,0 °CA
Knock Retard Cylinder 2,0 °CA
Knock Retard Cylinder 3,0 °CA
Knock Retard Cylinder 4,0 °CA
Knock Retard Cylinder 5,0 °CA
Knock Retard Cylinder 6,0 °CA

Lamda sensors warm state:

Measuring blocks information:

B1S1 O2 Sensor Heater (Bank 1 Sensor 1),Active
B1S1 O2 Sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1),664 mV
B1S1 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 1 Sensor 1),Rich
B1 O2 Sensor Loop (Bank 1),Closed
B1S2 O2 Sensor Heater (Bank 1 Sensor 2),Active
B1S2 O2 Sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 2),703 mV
B1 Short Term Fuel Trim (Bank 1),-1 %
B2S1 O2 Sensor Heater (Bank 2 Sensor 1),Active
B2S1 O2 Sensor (Bank 2 Sensor 1),723 mV
B2S1 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 2 Sensor 1),Rich
B2 O2 Sensor Loop (Bank 2),Closed
B2S2 O2 Sensor Heater (Bank 2 Sensor 2),Active
B2S2 O2 Sensor (Bank 2 Sensor 2),742 mV
B2 Short Term Fuel Trim (Bank 2),0 %
Intake Manifold Valve 1,Inactive
Full Load Enrichment,Inactive
Catalyst Protection Mode,Inactive
Desired Engine Idle Speed,650 RPM
Idle Speed Modified,No
Idle Speed Offset,Inactive
Dec. Fuel Cutoff (Deceleration),Inactive
Vehicle Speed,0 km/h

again intake air and mass sensor about 3 Minutes later. Engine was idling in the garage.

Measuring blocks information:

Mass Air Flow Sensor,1.27 V
Mass Air Flow Sensor,11 kg/h
Intake Air Temperature,32 °C
Intake Air Temperature,3.03 V
Knock Control,Inactive
Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve,Active
Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve,18 %

For me the intake Temperature is stupid or wrong. But i do not have experience if 10 degrees wrong could cause such a difference at idle speed.
Opinions as usual welcome.

Hope my informations will help you.

[Stephan]

Just check the manufacture manual.
Old systems cant evacuate the air thmeselves sometimes. Therefore normally a screw is placed which has to be opened to evacuate the air. However modern cars normaly evacuate themselves. I talk about german manufactures.
The manufactures describe how its done.
EXAMPLE (not for your car):
Overfill the water to maximum.
3 minutes idle speed. Raise 2 minutes to 2000 rpm. One minute to 4000 rpm. 3 Pushes to 4000 RPM. Fill water to the marked limit and youre ready to go.

[Stephan]

Just check the manufacture manual.
Old systems cant evacuate the air thmeselves sometimes. Therefore normally a screw is placed which has to be opened to evacuate the air. However modern cars normaly evacuate themselves. I talk about german manufactures.
The manufactures describe how its done.
EXAMPLE (not for your car):
Overfill the water to maximum.
3 minutes idle speed. Raise 2 minutes to 2000 rpm. One minute to 4000 rpm. 3 Pushes to 4000 RPM. Fill water to the marked limit and youre ready to go.

[Stephan]

I only drive Drilled rotors on the german Autobahn. The fading effect is reduced however it is not necessary. Some breaks from 150 to zero and theyre all carbage.
Therefore drive slow or you have to live with it.
To really increse preformance mount bigger rotors with pads. Therefore the breaking system has to be changed. Buy quality parts if youre unhappy and think more about how to pleasure your wife 😀
Not everything is about brakes. How old are your dampers? 😀
Had complete ceramic braking System on my BMW however i replaced it with bigger standard rotors. Ceramic is not ceramic. Real ceramic brakes have to get to operation temperature to work well. I do not recommend for normal use. Noise is normal and braking preformance is less in normal use therefore you cant get them on operation temperature.

There are huge differences in cermaic brakes. I think you are not talking about the real ceramic systems. You would be suprised if you see the price 😀

[Stephan]

I only drive Drilled rotors on the german Autobahn. The fading effect is reduced however it is not necessary. Some breaks from 150 to zero and theyre all carbage.
Therefore drive slow or you have to live with it.
To really increse preformance mount bigger rotors with pads. Therefore the breaking system has to be changed. Buy quality parts if youre unhappy and think more about how to pleasure your wife 😀
Not everything is about brakes. How old are your dampers? 😀
Had complete ceramic braking System on my BMW however i replaced it with bigger standard rotors. Ceramic is not ceramic. Real ceramic brakes have to get to operation temperature to work well. I do not recommend for normal use. Noise is normal and braking preformance is less in normal use therefore you cant get them on operation temperature.

There are huge differences in cermaic brakes. I think you are not talking about the real ceramic systems. You would be suprised if you see the price 😀

[Stephan]

Is it really filled up to maximum? These sensors are somethimes really sensitive. Less then half and my info display is asking for some oil. Only fill it to maximum if the car is hot and placed even. Wait some time. Too much oil does not help either 😀

Another thougt:
Oil service done? If you run only short distances oil might got thinner. My sister had the same issue on her Mercedes C coupe 180 compressor. She only drives short distances. The oil got 2 thin and therefore it was bubbling. Therefore the sensor warned her even the oil level was ok. New filter and oil and everyhting was fine again. I hope you can understnad my english ;D

[Stephan]

Is it really filled up to maximum? These sensors are somethimes really sensitive. Less then half and my info display is asking for some oil. Only fill it to maximum if the car is hot and placed even. Wait some time. Too much oil does not help either 😀

Another thougt:
Oil service done? If you run only short distances oil might got thinner. My sister had the same issue on her Mercedes C coupe 180 compressor. She only drives short distances. The oil got 2 thin and therefore it was bubbling. Therefore the sensor warned her even the oil level was ok. New filter and oil and everyhting was fine again. I hope you can understnad my english ;D

[Author]

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