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THANK YOU for this one! I’ve known the theory behind Auto trans operation for a while but was never able to visualize how all the parts fit together in the case. I always wanted to tear one apart like this but never had the time or transmission.
THANK YOU for this one! I’ve known the theory behind Auto trans operation for a while but was never able to visualize how all the parts fit together in the case. I always wanted to tear one apart like this but never had the time or transmission.
A few questions about this Eric:
1. Should I expect similar behavior from the OBDII output of a MAP sensor?
2. Does this only apply if the car is in neutral/park? My map sensor readings show I’m building vacuum at about 2000 RPM on the road but actually go down when I rev to 2000 at idle.
3. Should the car be at operating termperature for this?
A few questions about this Eric:
1. Should I expect similar behavior from the OBDII output of a MAP sensor?
2. Does this only apply if the car is in neutral/park? My map sensor readings show I’m building vacuum at about 2000 RPM on the road but actually go down when I rev to 2000 at idle.
3. Should the car be at operating termperature for this?
I whacked the head with a punch and a hammer (not too hard) to try and break the aluminum oxide loose.
Keep in mind most products marketed in the US as Synthetic are actually blends of group III (“hyrdrocracked” petroleum) and group IV (PAO, true synthetic).
It throws the p1457. That’s the only code I pinched the hose going from the purge valve to the throttle body, and have checked that area for leaks with carb cleaner. The vent shut valve doesn’t close with key on engine off, so I’m guessing there’s an issue there. I still need to probe the electical connections, but haven’t gotten around to that yet. :] I’m using the OE thermostat. I’m probably due for a new one.
Anyway I’m glad to hear the fuel trim is fine.