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Thanks Third Gear for the reply. The car seems to function OK, and I’m not having any issues, but when I read that I started thinking about different issues that could arise, and I wasn’t sure if there could be possible damage. I’m old school as far as my thinking goes on oil changes. I figured oil was oil. Then when I started reading the owners manual maintenance booklet my mind started thinking about how technology is changing. I never thought that there would be a requirement for synthetic in a car. After talking to several people, companies like Toyota and Subaru are requiring synthetic at all maintenance intervals. There’s even talk on Toyota forums about how dealerships aren’t prepared for the new oils required from the manufacturer. In my opinion I think requiring synthetic at oil changes is overkill. I’m not sure I would of purchased this car if I had known that.
Your project looks exactly like mine from last week. I just replaced the wheel bearings in my Accord and the knuckles look identical. That rotor is trashed. Not to much stoping power with that. If your at this point I would consider changing those bearings. 45$ per side for Timken bearings. How I got the hub punched out of the bearing, I used a 2″ black pipe connector and pounded it out with a ball pien hammer. Then I put the 4 bolts in like Eric shows in the video. I I had everything out in 5 to 10 minutes. I also have a friend that has a press, so I pressed in the new bearings. Check around with some people you know. Maybe someone you know has access to a press.
My rack and pinion job is complete along with the wheel bearings. I sent the car out for an alignment on Monday and all is good. The car drives great and steers perfect. The grinding noise from the wheel bearings is GONE! This is what lead me to the rack problem in the first place.
Although it was a bit of a pain getting at those flare nuts on the rack, the rest of the job went pretty smooth. I had ton of fun doing it, and the amount of satisfaction I got when everything was complete was huge.
Thanks to everyone who commented on this job, and thanks to Eric for the youtube video that sent me in the right direction.Success!!!!!! The heat worked like a charm. I was thinking the trans shift cable had to come off, but I was wrong. I just pushed in on the left side of the rack and it slid out no problems. OUT finally. Now it’s time to put the new in.
The grommets that with it, are they supposed to go around the base of the flare nut?There are several different sizes. They came in a pack with the rack. I think I figured it out. I brlirvr they are used on the steering shaft and not the fittings. I was thinking maybe they were used for the flare nuts, Im just going to use a little teflon tape for those.
The funny thing about the rack is there were no instructions for the use of those grommets or anything else. Theye were just in the box along with the rack, and me being the rookie I don’t have a clue as to what I’m doin.
I would take a photo except my kid sat on my digital camera and broke it.Thanks for the advice. One thing that I haven’t tried yet was firing up the old propane torch and try putting a little heat to it. Not sure why I didn’t think of it before.
I’m not quite ready to drop the frame on it yet. I’m thinking there’s still a chance it will break loose. Patients and time. I think I heard that in a movie once.
I know about the Honda PS fluid. Got a few pints ready to pour once the rack is in.
Even with this minor setback I’m still enjoying rebuilding the front end on the car. Hell if I knew I would have this much fun I should have become a mechanic years ago instead of a truck driver.
By the way, great video Eric on the front wheel bearing replacement video. It came out just like you demonstrated.
I called the local Honda shop for kicks and they quoted me $1150 to replace them both.
ThanksI’ll try some PB blaster on it and let it sit for the next couple of days. These 2 flare nuts are in such a obscure spot that when I do get a wrench on the there’s just not anywhere to go. I did get one to crack loose so I only have the other to get. Mechanics earn their money when they do this job.
I have to say that up to this point I have been enjoying doing the job.I checked out both videos and I see they are dropping the frame for the repairs on the Fords. This looks like the option I’m going to do since there’s just not enough room to get in there. I was kinda hoping that someone who has done this repair before could send me in the right direction.
I was able to get one of the fittings off, but the 17mm just won’t budge. I soaked it with PB blaster but still no luck.
The dropping of the sub frame seems like the best way to go.