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Sorry for the confusion – let me clarify.
As a baseline – I checked oil level last Friday and it was in the normal range.
Thursday I drove home from work ~ 12 miles – car had heat with temp gauge needle showing the normal 1/3 (from “C”). Stopped at a store about a half mile from home for about 30 minutes, when I drove back home there was no cabin heat, and again the temp gauge showed normal. It was about 30 degrees outside.
I checked the radiator level when I got home and the top was empty. I added about 3 quarts and it filled to the top, so I put the radiator cap back on. I let it run for 10 minutes or so and went to bleed the coolant from the intake manifold and nothing came out. Checked coolant level again and it was low so I added more (about 2 quarts) and the level kept dropping as I watched the open radiator.
At this point I checked the dip stick and it was approximately 3 x above the high mark. I shut everything down and after the engine cooled, I drained the oil and out came approximately 9 quarts of what looked like thin black/brown oil. Standard oil change is 4.5 quarts.
So maybe the cooling system was really really low so taking 5+ quarts of coolant isn’t a red flag (8 quart capacity), but where did all the extra fluid come from when I drained the oil?
The 9 quarts don’t look abnormal, other than being on the thin (viscosity) side – to ukrkoz point of, “You can always tell if coolant is in oil, either by little coolant droplets floating in oil or, by milkshake, created by oil pump action.” That is, I don’t see droplets or milkshake, and I see no separation in the 3 quarts I put in a clear container Thursday night.
Is it really 9 quarts of oil is the key to this mystery. I just put the remaining oil (6 quarts) I pulled in clear containers to see if it will separate. Any thoughts on how long coolant and 5w-30 oil takes to separate?
I did a compression test today and all 5 cylinders are within normal range – 180, 180, 202, 195, 178
Thanks for listening.
Anthony
Sorry for the confusion – let me clarify.
As a baseline – I checked oil level last Friday and it was in the normal range.
Thursday I drove home from work ~ 12 miles – car had heat with temp gauge needle showing the normal 1/3 (from “C”). Stopped at a store about a half mile from home for about 30 minutes, when I drove back home there was no cabin heat, and again the temp gauge showed normal. It was about 30 degrees outside.
I checked the radiator level when I got home and the top was empty. I added about 3 quarts and it filled to the top, so I put the radiator cap back on. I let it run for 10 minutes or so and went to bleed the coolant from the intake manifold and nothing came out. Checked coolant level again and it was low so I added more (about 2 quarts) and the level kept dropping as I watched the open radiator.
At this point I checked the dip stick and it was approximately 3 x above the high mark. I shut everything down and after the engine cooled, I drained the oil and out came approximately 9 quarts of what looked like thin black/brown oil. Standard oil change is 4.5 quarts.
So maybe the cooling system was really really low so taking 5+ quarts of coolant isn’t a red flag (8 quart capacity), but where did all the extra fluid come from when I drained the oil?
The 9 quarts don’t look abnormal, other than being on the thin (viscosity) side – to ukrkoz point of, “You can always tell if coolant is in oil, either by little coolant droplets floating in oil or, by milkshake, created by oil pump action.” That is, I don’t see droplets or milkshake, and I see no separation in the 3 quarts I put in a clear container Thursday night.
Is it really 9 quarts of oil is the key to this mystery. I just put the remaining oil (6 quarts) I pulled in clear containers to see if it will separate. Any thoughts on how long coolant and 5w-30 oil takes to separate?
I did a compression test today and all 5 cylinders are within normal range – 180, 180, 202, 195, 178
Thanks for listening.
Anthony
Thank you for the replies.
Yes, no smoke but the crank case was over filled with what had to be coolant.
I checked it days before and oil level was at normal level.
As I was filling the radiator it continued to drop down and dip stick showed about 3 x the level it should have been.
No frothing anywhere (did I just catch the fail?). I put a fair amount of the “oil” that I drained in a clear container, and I still don’t see the oil and water/coolant separation as of Saturday morning (drained late Thursday night).
Doing a compression test now.
Thank you for the replies.
Yes, no smoke but the crank case was over filled with what had to be coolant.
I checked it days before and oil level was at normal level.
As I was filling the radiator it continued to drop down and dip stick showed about 3 x the level it should have been.
No frothing anywhere (did I just catch the fail?). I put a fair amount of the “oil” that I drained in a clear container, and I still don’t see the oil and water/coolant separation as of Saturday morning (drained late Thursday night).
Doing a compression test now.
My 1999 Honda Odyssey has been intermittently throwing the 0420 code for the last 18 months. The car was/is running well, so I’d reset the code and it would stay away for a while. At first a month or two, but since the winter it would return sometimes as soon as 5 days later.
I too saw Scotty K’s video and had hope of avoiding a multi-hundred dollar repair, but was a little skeptical. I never tried the lacquer thinner but was considering it until seeing Eric’s video on it in Jan/Feb
Well, SeaFoam was on special at the local auto store and I couldn’t remember the last time I SeaFoamed my engine so I bought some. I used the entire can via the vacuum line ingestion method and let it sit for a while after choking the engine off.
Well after starting the engine then clearing a whole bunch of new codes for cylinder misfire (6 of them), the 0420 catalytic code has not returned. That was about a month ago and ~1200 miles. I know there are a lot of variables working here so not sold it’s fixed (yet), but so far so good. It remains pretty cold here in the North East and the car get used for a lot of short trips – as such, that is representative of conditions that threw the 0420 code.
Cat and O2 sensors are original – car has 236K miles. I do NOT work for SeaFoam, own their stock or even work in the automotive industry – just a back-yard mechanic that really enjoy’s Eric’s videos.
My 1999 Honda Odyssey has been intermittently throwing the 0420 code for the last 18 months. The car was/is running well, so I’d reset the code and it would stay away for a while. At first a month or two, but since the winter it would return sometimes as soon as 5 days later.
I too saw Scotty K’s video and had hope of avoiding a multi-hundred dollar repair, but was a little skeptical. I never tried the lacquer thinner but was considering it until seeing Eric’s video on it in Jan/Feb
Well, SeaFoam was on special at the local auto store and I couldn’t remember the last time I SeaFoamed my engine so I bought some. I used the entire can via the vacuum line ingestion method and let it sit for a while after choking the engine off.
Well after starting the engine then clearing a whole bunch of new codes for cylinder misfire (6 of them), the 0420 catalytic code has not returned. That was about a month ago and ~1200 miles. I know there are a lot of variables working here so not sold it’s fixed (yet), but so far so good. It remains pretty cold here in the North East and the car get used for a lot of short trips – as such, that is representative of conditions that threw the 0420 code.
Cat and O2 sensors are original – car has 236K miles. I do NOT work for SeaFoam, own their stock or even work in the automotive industry – just a back-yard mechanic that really enjoy’s Eric’s videos.